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Deck joint sealant repair question

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sflier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sflier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Deck joint sealant repair question
    Posted: 28 October 2016 at 17:23
I'm getting some estimates to replace the defective sealant used to seal the deck to the hull and have a question about the process.  The yard suggested removing the chain plates in order to seal around them properly.  Others on this forum who had done this work didn't mentioned needing to remove hardware in order to complete the job.   Is it necessary or recommended to remove the chain plates to do this work?  I didn't think the chain plates could easily be removed on this model.  
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Konstantin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Konstantin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 October 2016 at 18:02
We did the replacement in April this year on 445, didn't remove any hardware, just scrapped the old sealant out and filled the new one in. Very easy. I'd be alarmed at the prospect of removing the chain plates from the hull. Besides, this is rather an aesthetic repair - this damaged sealant doesn't hold anything together and is still sealing the gaps, just looks ugly. 
Of interest - I recently talked to a Sikaflex dealer and he suggested it is not a sikaflex product problem, its a design problem: the product Hanse used was recommended by Sikaflex for hull to deck joint, internal sealing (no sunlight access), and it is not UV-resistant from the beginning.
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SteveT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2016 at 04:20
I have a similar problem with my Hanse 385 with the sealant used in the deck to hull joint cracking (just surface cracks). It's doesn't look good but that's about it I am told by the Hanse dealer. I did however replace the sealant around the chain plate as water was getting in behind the GRP chain plate cover and the water trapped behind the cover became quite smelly. I just scraped out the old sealant, which took about 30 minutes to get it all out and cleaned up, and used sikaflex 295UV to reveal. It worked well and the 295uv is performing well and looks good with no surface cracking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fendant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2016 at 07:21
I had my sealant replaced in 2014 by the dealer under warranty. They did not remove any hardware and the problem did not reoccurr in the last 2 seasons.
Frank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SausalitoDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 December 2016 at 16:49
Ditto, had the same job done on my 505, did not remove any hardware and it came out fine.

Dave

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Persse View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Persse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 December 2016 at 00:45
Also check the sealant quality at the base of the heads area and around the life raft capsule area. Double check the section t the base of the transom as it gets a lot of exposure to a combination of water and sun. 
Phil O
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