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Saildrive/Hull gasket & prop choice |
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charentebob
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Joined: 09 April 2014 Status: Offline Points: 403 |
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Topic: Saildrive/Hull gasket & prop choicePosted: 07 June 2014 at 11:09 |
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I'm about to start negotiations for a 2006 hanse 370 with the 40 hp engine. I've been told that the gasket between the hull & the sail drive unit should be changed every 7 years. Is this true & is it a difficult job to do yourself, I guess it 's pretty heavy. Has anyone done this job themselves? How expensive is it likely to be if done by a professional in Spain. After how many hours should one change the sail drive oil?
The boat in question has a fixed 3 blade prop. A folding prop would improve performance. What suggestions have you got on this subject which I might take in to consideration? [:s] |
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kweetje
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Joined: 15 September 2009 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 360 |
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Posted: 07 June 2014 at 13:28 |
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replacing this gasket is in my opinion not something you can do yourself...
You have to separate the saildrive from the motor and slide the motor forward. Now you can get saildrive out and change diaphragm. Remounting is invers order... You can see how to do it on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxqHqOwC78c Alot of people don't care about the 7 year interval, and up till now i didn't hear about major flaws or problemsn after 7 years... We change our saildrive oil every 2 years (on advice of a yanmar technician, who said that every year is really overkill) For the prop: we opted for a feathering propellor (maxprop). A folding propellor has only limited thrust in reverse. The drag of a feathering propellor is somwahet more then that of a folding propellor (but still much less than that of a fixed propellor). Everything depends on what is important to you... In case of a feathering propellor, make shure to take one suitable for saildrive ! It generally has a damping mechanism. |
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First 4000 miles, no substantial problems
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Ian Robinson
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Joined: 24 November 2005 Location: Essex UK Status: Offline Points: 246 |
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Posted: 08 June 2014 at 16:23 |
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Hi,
I have a 2006 370 from new and I have not changed the drive leg seal yet and I see no reason to do so in the near future. The Yanmar seal has two skins with a water sensor between them. If the seal looks undamaged then it is ok in my view. I can remember that Volvo used to recommend changing the seal every 5 years. In practice the seals are so well protected that if they do not suffer any mechanical damage (boatyard lifts the boat on the drive leg, engine mounts fail etc) there is no knowing how long they will actually last. Changing the seal is not a complex task, but as mentioned you do have to ease the engine forward. In the past I have installed a couple of saildrive units into boats I have owned and I didn't have any difficulty in managing the weights involved. However, now that I can afford to pay someone to do it for me I would. As kweetje recommends changing the oil every two years it probably right. In reality you are draining the oil to check that it is not contaminated with seawater. Compared with say a car's gearbox oil it has a pretty easy life. It is kept cool and is only under load about 100 hours a year. So if the shaft seals are keeping the water out it will last a lot longer than 2 years. Best of luck with your negotiations. Ian
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Ostara a 370#88
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kweetje
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Joined: 15 September 2009 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 360 |
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Posted: 10 June 2014 at 18:50 |
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And to add further comment on the oil subject: oil seals of sail drive are a DIY job, because relatively straight forward (if the boat is hauled out for winter season) You'll find on youtube demo videos how to change these seals...
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First 4000 miles, no substantial problems
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Thuro
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Joined: 25 March 2014 Location: Thuroe, DK Status: Offline Points: 19 |
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Posted: 13 June 2014 at 11:47 |
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I have a 2006 Hanse 370 with the 40 hp engine version.
It was originally delivered with a 3 blade Flexofold 17" x 11" pitch. However in my opinion it need more pitch. I have talked with Flexofold and they said that Yanmar at the time when the boat was delivered where very conservative on prop choise. They required that the engine should be able to take full rpm. 3000 + 10% = 3300. But Flexofold recomend 17" x 13" I intend to replace my prop next season by their recomendations. |
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charentebob
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Joined: 09 April 2014 Status: Offline Points: 403 |
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Posted: 13 June 2014 at 20:03 |
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Thanks Guys for the input.
The 2006 is now out of the window & we have negotiated for a 2008 with a 30 hp engine and a 1.65 draft. Neither of these is my first choice but "she who must be obeyed", was attracted by the price & a teak deck! Anything for a quite life. Maybe when she finds it rolls a bit & is slow in a choppy head sea she may change her mind. As an ex racer I'd obviously go for a folding prop but may need to wait for the right moment to suggest that on! |
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alettaenmarcel
Admiral
Joined: 15 August 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1246 |
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Posted: 14 June 2014 at 17:37 |
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The gasget we have is stil the same as wenn we bought our boat in2006
The prop is a flexofold 2 blade 18x13 The gasget will only be renewed wenn the alarm goes off sinse it is a double layer version witt a alarm in between So don't worry to much. Grretings marcel |
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Kids Dingys 72-79 ,Several Windsurfboards 79-86 OK dingy competitions 86-92 , Trotter Pandora Race 92-98, Friendship 28 Sport 98-05, Hanse 370 06-......
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