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Improving the fridge |
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Richard M
Captain Joined: 06 November 2006 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 329 |
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Posted: 31 July 2023 at 16:33 |
Hello Stuart
I assume that the 458 layout is similar to the 455. I had to cut out the bulk head immediately in front of the 'fridge (behind the saloon seat) to gain access to be able to install additional insulation. If I can find the photos I'll email them to you (I fail to manage to attach them here). Best to you both. Richard
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Richard M
(S/Y BrightStar - H 455 #90; ex S/Y Providence - H 400e #290) |
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Sportswagoneer
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 17 June 2018 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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I believe every hole made into the fridge will have been sealed with some sort of caulk (sikaflex?) after running the cables through. So you shouldn’t expect there to be existing openings. However - if you’re replacing cables, you should be able to pull them out with a little force and/or insert something alongside them that can penetrate the caulk and make room for new ones.
My fan is powered from the internal light bulb, using the lid switch and a relay to turn it off when the lid opens.
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2010 Hanse 400 #700 “Neste Sommer”
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toholthe
Commander Joined: 20 September 2017 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Hi,
I connected the fan to the light in the fridge. You can get permanent power from here. The electronic thermostat I powered from the same place and connected to the cables that connect to the existing thermostat. That way you have two parallel thermostats, one in freezer and one in fridge. The compressor turns on if either gets below the set temp. I.e. no cables trough the box. I have now sold the boat, but on mine it worked great as long as I had the boat.
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S&J
Admiral Joined: 30 August 2014 Location: Perth WA / Med Status: Offline Points: 1180 |
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I am somewhat reluctant to reopen this thread as others have clearly succeeded where I have failed!
I have the electronic thermostat and a small 12v computer fan and wanted to install these as others have done. This relates to a 458. My freezer box currently cycles between -2 and -16 or so as the compressor kicks in. This is great, but the fridge rarely gets more than 20° below the ambient temperature. With current temperature in the Med my fridge is about 16C. My challenge is how I get a cable into the fridge. I know that I could take the electric supply from the existing control unit which is in the freezer compartment and use this for the fan, but I would still need to get the temperature probe for the new thermostat into the fridge somehow. I can see the electric cable and a pipe from the compressor enter below the freezer, but I have tried pushing a thin cable snake through and it gets blocked almost immediately. Access to the area behind the freezer unit is impossible. I am just about get to the compressor by removing the panel under the cooker, but this is the limit of that I can reach. |
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H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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perry
Captain Joined: 13 October 2015 Location: IOW Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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Putting a properly functioning thermostat and an internal air circulation fan has made huge difference to my H315 fridge. My fan is a brushless motor 12v PC fan runing on abut 6 volts, its very effective witout adding much heat. Check my post :- note your Arduino program should/must allow a waiting time; in order that the compressor only pumps gas. The main reason of poor performance with old aneroid capsule type thermostat was short cycling, turning on compressor too early. Regards Perry Cowes, Isle of Wight UK
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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017 |
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Lonlon
Commander Joined: 03 July 2017 Location: France martigue Status: Offline Points: 113 |
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Hello everyone. I'm talking to you with a translator because I'm not good at English. I have a Hanse 400 from 2006. Would anyone have made a modification under the freezer to evacuate thawing water?
Lonlon
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Lonlon
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toholthe
Commander Joined: 20 September 2017 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Hi,
A fan helps circulate the cold air underneath the evaporator. I changed to a “PC fan” which is connected to the steel bar wall just inside the door. I believe it helps to keep all parts of fridge cooler, but not the power consumption.
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Sportswagoneer
Lieutenant Commander Joined: 17 June 2018 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Toholte: I made the same observation as you that the fridge gets good and cold - but has a hard time when full. Considering putting in a fan like you did. How did it work out for you? Have you been able to maintain a lower temperature when full with the fan?
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2010 Hanse 400 #700 “Neste Sommer”
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Richard M
Captain Joined: 06 November 2006 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 329 |
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Thanks Toholthe.
I've been in touch with Makspower - Mr Bruenech the Managing Director. Most helpful. Best wishes Richard
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Richard M
(S/Y BrightStar - H 455 #90; ex S/Y Providence - H 400e #290) |
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toholthe
Commander Joined: 20 September 2017 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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Jeb,
The fan is connected to the light in the fridge. It will still run if I open the lower door.
Richard, You need to go trough the charging when switching to lithium, but I did not change anything. I have a Sterling charger with three outputs. Works well.
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