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Saildrive Gaiter Replacement

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imalittlemonkey View Drop Down
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    Posted: 21 December 2008 at 11:11
Does anyone have any experience  or UK costings of replacing the main saildrive gaiter/seal/gasket on a 301 (2002 with std Volvo MD2010 10HP with saildrive)? By gaiter, I mean the rubber isolating seal round the top of the saildrive leg that keeps the seawater out of the boat, plus of course the cosmetic outer 'flap'.
 
Mine is now 7 yrs old, and I propose to replace it on safety grounds, and also so the insurance company can't use it as an excuse not to pay out if it leaks.
 
Thanks!! Smile


Edited by imalittlemonkey - 21 December 2008 at 15:28
2002 301 Fin Keel - Lake Windermere
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 December 2008 at 13:09
If you drop me a PM with you e-address, I'll send you an article on how to replace the seal.

Gregor
Uisge Beatha

Hanse 311 #80

http://www.uisge-beatha.eu
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holby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 December 2008 at 00:51
Gregor, I have also sent you my email address, so can you also send me the article. Cheers, Dave
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cutty Stark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2009 at 09:38

Cutty Stark has a few years to go until the suggested change time of 7 years. So not a burning issue for me yet. However I have heard that provided the seal is sound the suggested replacement time of 7 years is playing it VERY VERY VERY safe. Would be interested in thoughts from the forum ?

Gordon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2009 at 10:22
Gordon,
I must admit I have heard this also and asked the question but I have not seen anything in writing in any of my info about my saildrive, mind you tho I do not seem to ave all the paperwork for the saildrive.  If you have all the paperwork does it say anything it the manul about this 7yr rule, also I cannot find anything in my insurance, saying I have to change the saildrive gaiter. Dave
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Muscadet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2009 at 11:18
I have a Yanmar saildrive on my 312. When I spoke to the Yanmar dealer about changing the seal he said they had never heard of one leaking. As the Yanmar seal is a double seal, water penetrating the outer seal does not enter the boat but sets off an alarm. His advice was leave the seal alone (if it ain't bust don't fix it!) as you could create a problem where none existed before. Unless the outer seal gets damaged and sets off the alarm in which case it would need replacing. Don't know if any of this applies to the Volvo saildrive.
 
Regards
 
Alan
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imalittlemonkey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imalittlemonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2009 at 20:06
Well. I've just done this job on my (just) 7 yr old 301 so it may be worth sharing my experiences.
 
It says quite clearly in the Volvo Handbook that this should be replaced every 7 years, which is the only motivation for replacing it. After speaking to my insurer (Bishop Skinner), they said that if I didn't replace it, and there was a claim that in any way involved anything related to the area of the seal, then it is highly likely the underwriter would take the opportunity to avoid paying out. Due to this likely being a large sum (i.e. total loss) I was not prepared to take the risk. Dealers quoted 1300 labour (assuming 1 day) and parts (presumably at full list price) plus additional cranage (refused to work in my marina for political reasons meaning re-assembling the now dismantled engine covers etc) at their own yard (which wouldn't take the fin keel draft in any case). This equals circa 2000, so not an attractive or indeed economically viable option.
 
So, being mechanically adept with access to most engineering faciities and tooling, I decided to do the job myself.  Keyparts to the rescue with a genuine Volvo kit, and the correct Bostik 2-part adhesive to bond the new exterior flap in place (which I've still to complete due to the Snow). I also ordered new output shaft oilseals and O rings.
 
The job is reasonably straightforward if fairly involved (thanks to Forum members for the information, very helpful), to move the engine forward enough to remove the saildrive/gearbox unit in one piece. The Volvo instructions are very good for the actual seal fitment. Most competent mechanics could do the work without problem, but having 2 people makes it easier for heaving the unit in/out (essential for re-assembly but not essential for disassembly). I needed to take the complete unit home to work on the saildrive and replace the seals and re-paint the leg, this would have been almost impossible in/next to the boat.
 
The only real problem I encountered was having to drill and tap two of the the gaiter ring bolt holes that secure the seal to the hull (M8 to M10) due to discovering them stripped and indeed loose!! They had never been touched from new, so I can only assume they left the factory like this. It is testament to the over-engineering of the seal arrangement that it did not leak, but I am very glad I did the job and would advise others with a 301 to check these bolts for tightness (only 20 nm torque so don't go mad).
 
The gaiter I took out was like new and I would have been happy to put it back; having said that my boat is very well kept and maintained and has no oil leaks that might degrade the rubber gaiter. I originally only did this job to please the insurer, but as I found the problem with the loose bolts in the end I was very happy I did it.
 
Good luck to any other Hanse owners who decide to do the job. PM's welcome for any more detail if you decide to do this too!!


Edited by imalittlemonkey - 10 February 2009 at 07:13
2002 301 Fin Keel - Lake Windermere
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scorpio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 February 2009 at 20:44
In 2004 I change the engine in my old boat.  It had a Volvo sail drive.  I took the opportunity of having the engine out to change the sail drive gaiter.  At this point the boat was 17 years old.  The Volvo gaiters have a year and month of manufacture stamped on them.  The one I replaced was the original - 17 years old.  It was in near perfect condition - just some light surface crazing - I would have happily put it back for another 17 years.  I only changed it because I had the new one on the bench ready to go.
 
Ed


Edited by Scorpio - 09 February 2009 at 20:45
Ed Essery
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sailingfree Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2011 at 20:39
I'm about to replace the seal on Dragonfly as the boat is now 8 years old. On a 301 is it possible to get the gearbox and leg out into the rear cabin through the access hatch or do I need to dismantle more of the aft cabin? Access to the front of the engine is fine as the whole of the plywood engine box can be removed, I'm just a little puzzled over how I get the gearbox and leg out of the boat.

I've read the posts here, the PBO article and the Volvo instructions, but any extra tips would be appreciated.

Pete
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imalittlemonkey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imalittlemonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2011 at 08:31
Hi
 
The boxwork around the engine eneeds to be completely removed for reasonable access, the engine needs to be disconnected from the saildrive unit at the bellhousing (just a few bolts) and the main engine mounts undone. The, the engine is slid forward a little (to allow the shaft to clear the saildrive) and then the saildrive can be unbolted and finally removed. You don't need to undo the fuel, electrical cables but you do the throttle cable and engine stop cable, I seem to remember. The engine then needs some support as it is then free to hang at the back, and the saildrive will need someone to hold it underneath and outside the boat whilst you undo the mountings, to stop it hanging on the gaiter. Mind you, if its coming out anyway you won't be bothered!
 
There is enough access to wriggle the saildrive unit (complete) out of its position and exit through the hatch. The fibreglass mouldings and mini access hatch behind the engine do need to be completely removed, so this will mean some of the (on mine) softwood bracings uinscrewing and then they come out very easily. You can then work on it, replace seals, paint etc in the comfort of your workshop. Watch the ring of mounting bolts into the hull; the threads on mine were loose and I had to repair some of the threads.
 
The instructions that come with the new seal are quite good; I'd advise spending the money on the correct Bostik 2402 adhesive for the outer rubber flap, as many work loose but mine has stayed in place. Use a wallpaper roller to really press into place once the glueing process is complete (several coats, really clean surfaces etc). Again, all in the instructions.
 
I have some useful documents that I gathered at the time, I can email to you if your PM me your email address. Definately a two man job though, and the re-installation was hard work as there is a race to get re-assembled before the person holding up the drive unit gets tired!
 
i also took the opportunity to encase the engine casings in sound deadening material whilst the boxwork was in pieces; this was the most worthwhile job I have ever done on the boat and has made a dramatic difference to comfort and noise levels. Well worth doing, although servicing access is impaired. Anyway, that's another story...
 
Good luck.
 
 


Edited by imalittlemonkey - 16 January 2011 at 08:41
2002 301 Fin Keel - Lake Windermere
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