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easy matic main sheet |
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2681 |
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Posted: 31 August 2009 at 17:35 |
Gregor
there is no way that you need more force with my suggested arrangement as the extra block is on TAIL of the mainsheet & does nothing when the sheet is pulled in as normal.
You may have miss assembled the system
You do not need any more than 4:1 when pulling in the sheet from,say, a reach or a run, you only use the extra purchse once you have the boom " near enough" then you trim with the extra purchase.
If your blocks are worn then you have no hope. WD 40 is not advised for blocks - only freshwater rinsing.
I had a problem with my mainsheet jamming block & when i changed it I noticed that the block on the boom was distorted. They were Lewmar & I changed to Barton delrin bearing blocks ( mainly due to price against overpriced Harken blocks) & that improved the situation a lot .
I suggest you think carefully about too many sheaaves in the tackle as you need such a long length of mainsheet & will get into tangles. It also makes gybing in a strong wind difficult as you cannot get the boom in quick enough & let it go in a controlled manner.
Too big a block on the mainsheet car will stop it standing up correctly ( even with a spring) & it will bear on the jammers & bend something.
I assume you have a track & that the pad eye for a non tracked sheeting arrangement is still in place. ( if not it is easy to fit one ) Your extra jamming block goes on the pad eye & the TAIL of the mainsheet has a single ( preff delrin bearing) block. You undo the fixed of the mainsheet & fit a single sheeve block. You take a sheet from the jamming block on the pad eye up through the block & back down the jammer.( you can increase this purchase latter but it is not needed) This sheet needs to be a different colour from the mainsheet & only needs to be about 6 metres long. Some boats use a smaller diameter sheet as with the extra purchase you do not need a thick sheet.
Your normal mainsheet works as it always has except that the tail is fixed to a the extra tackle. You can still slide the main sheet up & down the traveller.
Daydream Believer
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Tricky
Commander Joined: 13 June 2009 Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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Hi
I only use the 16:1 when going uppwind. Its for really tightning the sheet and fine tune. When gybing i only use the 4:1 main rope. Remember not to let the 16:1 purchase get to "long" or the top block of it will stop in the main block and the purchase is reduced to 3:1
Brg
Tricky
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Gregor
Admiral Joined: 11 February 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1256 |
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Thanks for the pictures! It's clear how you've improved the reduction on the sheet. What is your sheet handling when gybing?
These are the blocks I have. I tried an extra block as suggested inthe post of Daydream Believer and noticed that the force to pull in the sheet got more. This maybe has to do with the fact that the blocks are over 6 years old. I used wd40 on the blocks to improve rolling. Did not help much. Gregor |
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Uisge Beatha
Currently sailing Dehler 36 JV (2002) Previous boat: Hanse 311 #80 http://www.uisge-beatha.eu |
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Tricky
Commander Joined: 13 June 2009 Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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Hi First an overview:
Here a more detailed view:
Brg
Tricky
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Gregor
Admiral Joined: 11 February 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1256 |
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Thanks Tricky, looking 4ward to it.
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Uisge Beatha
Currently sailing Dehler 36 JV (2002) Previous boat: Hanse 311 #80 http://www.uisge-beatha.eu |
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Tricky
Commander Joined: 13 June 2009 Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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Hi will take a couple of pictures of the system i use an post this weekend. Brg Tricky |
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Tricky
Commander Joined: 13 June 2009 Status: Offline Points: 93 |
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Hi Gregor
The system i use will give a 4:1 purchase for fast adjustment and 16:1 purchase on the fine adjustment. This means you only need to pull with a 1/4 of the force on the 16:1 rope in order to get the same force downwards on the boom. If you pull with 1kg in the 4:1 you need only pull with 0.25kg on the 16:1 to get the same downwards force on the boom.
Brg
Tricky
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Gregor
Admiral Joined: 11 February 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1256 |
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To see if I get the picture.
First I have no traveller. At the bottom one violin block and at the boom one block. In total a 4:1 system. My question is, what do I need to change to use less power for pulling in the main especially when sailing close to the wind. The thought was/is Easy matic 4:1 / 8:1. By adding one block the the end of the main sheet, I would reduce the power needed to pull in the main. I'm trying to figure out the flow of the sheet through the blocks by drawing it, because I'm not on the boat. For every draw I make, I keep missing one block. So I probably overlook something, but waht?? The link Tricky sent has to do with fine adjustment, and although something to think of, it does not solve my question. F.i. in case of stronger winds, I think, it would still require the same force as it would without Tricky's improvement. Gregor p.s. Have a great holliday! Edited by Gregor - 07 August 2009 at 09:12 |
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Uisge Beatha
Currently sailing Dehler 36 JV (2002) Previous boat: Hanse 311 #80 http://www.uisge-beatha.eu |
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holby
Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 18 February 2006 Location: Isle of Man Status: Offline Points: 2287 |
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Funny my wife will do the same, she has been known to sit in a committee boat for hours in similar weather for dinghy competitions.
Dave
PS Good luck on your hols.
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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2681 |
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Gregor
Sorry no pics but the link posted by Tricky shows the details
the only difference I would make is a 2:1 tackle on the dead end of the sheet & if you have a track but still have the standard mainsheet deadeye on the cockpit floor I would fit the extra block to that so you do not have too much gear sliding along the track
It would allow a bit longer adjustment on the dead end & would not affect track operation
i am suprised you want more adjustment on the mainsheet for pulling in as the easymatic does not do that ( at least I do not think so) It is designed to be used as normal low power for general operation with the extra power for final adjustment which is exactly what the system Tricky & I have described does. I do not believe that the easi matic is worth the extra cost. In fact if you can fit the extra block onto the cockpit floor the system is better than the easi matic
Any way-- To change the subject I am off on 2 weeks hols tonight --- Yippee!!!
First to Ostend then into Dutch waters up to Whillemstad & back to Ostend
Hope to catch a couple of the bands in Ostend & if its rough the wife will probably do what she has done before - Offer her services on the N S Y C committee boat for the Belgian Dragon championships
I do not understand why but if it is rough she will go nowhere with me but quite happy to sit in a committee launch in F 7 for a couple of days
Women !!
daydream Believer
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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