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seawater in the cabin

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Taylor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Taylor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 January 2016 at 20:15
Originally posted by Bitbaltic Bitbaltic wrote:

Originally posted by Taylor Taylor wrote:


I have been trying to find the cause of damp under the bow cushions for ages. i suspected a bad leak through a fitting for the bitter end attachment. This only half solved the problem you have now given me another probable cause to investigate is it only three bolts that hold the pulpit in place?


IIRC the legs themselves come through the deck and terminate in a threaded end with a bolt on it, which is pretty rubbish. It may be in part glassed in, but it's some time since I had a look.

I have a mysterious damp patch on the port side ply lining in the front vee berth, just below the join of the shelf. My first suspicion was a leak from the pulpit feet but my best efforts suggested that these were dry, and the damp patch is growing more slowly than would be expected for something resulting from a deck leak. What I do think is happening- but I can't prove it without stripping out the ply lining, which would certainly destroy it and mean a replacement job- is that the ply is not in contact with the GRP hull until just beneath the pulpit, at which point the wood just touches the GRP, and some condensation is soaking through. One way or another in the next 2-5 years it will ruin the veneered ply and the whole forecabin will have to be redone. So this might be yet another possibility.



I think I found the problem. I cant believe that it only has a single 8mm stud and tiny backing washer through the deck!  Nuts were loose and enough slop in the holes to allow any deck water to pour in! Have refitted with sealant under flange and will add some decent backing pads.
Hanse 301 Bluenote 11
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Bitbaltic View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bitbaltic Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 January 2016 at 20:25
Lol told you it was rubbish ;) that'll make you think twice about using it for those 'Titanic Moments' too! Seriously though it is a real weak point on the boat and it's not unusual for them to simply break off. At some point I am going to get the forecabin headlining down and have a good check of mine too.

Cheers
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2016 at 05:06
On my Hanse I had to remove the pulpit because the front stud broke. I found that the 2 side studs had 10mm nuts fitted over 8mm studding & someone had just placed a load of sikaflex over the stud & slid the nut on instead of fitting with the correct size nuts
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Taylor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Taylor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2016 at 22:00
Originally posted by Bitbaltic Bitbaltic wrote:

Lol told you it was rubbish ;) that'll make you think twice about using it for those 'Titanic Moments' too! Seriously though it is a real weak point on the boat and it's not unusual for them to simply break off. At some point I am going to get the forecabin headlining down and have a good check of mine too.

Cheers

I am thinking of removing the whole pulpit and cutting off the 8mm studs and drilling out to accept a 10mm tap. I can then use a 10mm bolt from under deck in the forecabin. A hex Cap head would be best as there is not much clearance for a socket if you dont want to remove the plastic headlining. 

The front mount is a bit suspect there cant be much thickness  of metal as the tube is externally tapped 10mm but has the nav light cable running inside it. It might be better to run the cable to a deck gland and cable tied externally to the pulpit. The front mount can then be treated to a decent 10 or even 12mm bolt.

Steve.
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Taylor View Drop Down
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Joined: 02 December 2013
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Taylor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 February 2016 at 22:08
Originally posted by samuel samuel wrote:

On my Hanse I had to remove the pulpit because the front stud broke. I found that the 2 side studs had 10mm nuts fitted over 8mm studding & someone had just placed a load of sikaflex over the stud & slid the nut on instead of fitting with the correct size nuts

I went prepared with a 17mm socket for removing the pulpit!  The design of the pulpit is pretty poor. I expect it was mainly held in place by the tension in the guard wires and the front mount!

Steve
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 February 2016 at 05:14
The threaded part on the front leg is actually a welded piece with a washer between the thread & the post
If you removed the stud on the side posts you would find that you only have 4mm ( possibly 6mm) to tap into because that consists of a small round plate welded on the bottom of the tube
When my front post broke I drilled a hole in the top of the post & passed an 8mm stainless steel studding right down the whole post with a large washer & nut at the bottom & a nut & small washer at the top by the wooden step
The wire now comes out via a deck gland
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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holby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote holby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 February 2016 at 20:39
I had sea water under the port salon bunk and also on the floor of the saloon, plus damp cushions in the forward cabin.
I now have dry cushions, under port bunk in the saloon, plus a dry floor.
The reasons for me were two points...- damp cushions and water under port bunk... - in the anchor/ chain locker in the the bow. There is a stainless steel plate that I think is used to fix a windlass to, but I'm not sure....this was no longer tight and was no longer creating a seal... So I find with sikaflex and tightened the nuts up.
Water in the cabin - I found the anti syphon for the toilet was not working and water when on starboard tack filled up the toilet and over flowed and out into the saloon. So I now turn of the seacock for the bowl...
I now have a dry boat, but have not tried it in a blow yet...
Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)
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