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additional questions for installing a tiller pilot
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zephyrus View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 March 2008 at 15:02
I just ordered a TP22 Simrad tiller pilot. Looks very much alike the TP32 like described in this old topic http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1188&PN=1 I have some more more detailed questions.
 
I have found in the original packaging only a bronze bus (female) which will fit the vertical pin (male) on the pilot. How did you install the bronze part. Did you just drill a hole in the cockpit seat, or did you prepare some reinforcement? Where do you end up?; in the aft locker or in the cabin? Did you use epoxy to fit it and make it waterproof?
 
For the other side of the pilot I see that you all used an extra bracket on the tiller. It is not possible to drill a hole and put the pin that comes with the pilot straight into the tiller. Why did you use the extra bracket, for freedom to move or because you were afraid to split the wood of the tiller?
 
Looking forward to your experiences.
Happy sailing www.onzeboot.com
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Scorpio View Drop Down
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Points: 295 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scorpio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2008 at 18:23
Originally posted by zephyrus zephyrus wrote:

I have found in the original packaging only a bronze bus (female) which will fit the vertical pin (male) on the pilot. How did you install the bronze part. Did you just drill a hole in the cockpit seat, or did you prepare some reinforcement? Where do you end up?; in the aft locker or in the cabin? Did you use epoxy to fit it and make it waterproof?
Measure carefully where it needs to go.  The distance forward from the centre of the rudder shaft and the distance off the boat's centreline are both pretty critical.  Having found the spot you just need to drill the hole but only to the depth of the bush (not right through into the cabin).  Don't drill the hole too big - the bush needs to be a tight fit.  Use a little epoxy glue to fix it in place and make it watertight - I used araldite.  Before drilling and fixing it put masking tape on the teak seat to stop making a mess of it and/or getting glue on it.  I had to use a soft face mallet to knock mine in when the glue was on it.
 
Originally posted by zephyrus zephyrus wrote:

For the other side of the pilot I see that you all used an extra bracket on the tiller. It is not possible to drill a hole and put the pin that comes with the pilot straight into the tiller. Why did you use the extra bracket, for freedom to move or because you were afraid to split the wood of the tiller?
You can't get the pin in the correct place and keep the Tillerpilot horizontal (which it needs to be in operation) - you need the bracket and you have to modify it to drill an extra hole.  The other thread gives the crucial measurement you need to select the correct bracket.  I used coach bolts to attach the bracket to the tiller rather than drilling right through the tiller.  The bracket is a standard option available from Simrad, the manual lists the sizes available  and you should be able to order it from your chandler.
 
Hope this helps,
 
Ed


Edited by Scorpio - 01 March 2008 at 23:02
Ed Essery
Scorpio GBR 9824T
Hanse 342#465 - Solent Based
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Alex Faber View Drop Down
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Points: 204 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex Faber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2008 at 22:11
Francis / Ed,
IMHO it is better to drill the hole all the way into the aft cabin. It is better to know if the hole/bush is tight or not. Otherwise water could enter the core of the sandwich without you knowing it and being able correct it.
s/y eMotion (H430e #24)
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Scorpio View Drop Down
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Points: 295 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scorpio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2008 at 23:07
It will be watertight.  The bush has a lip on it - as you push the bush into the hole glue is forced up round the sides of the bush and onto the underside of the lip where it forms a seal.  That's part of the reason for masking around the the hole to stop getting excess glue on the teak.
 
You really don't need to drill through and make a mess in the aft cabin lining.
Ed Essery
Scorpio GBR 9824T
Hanse 342#465 - Solent Based
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mistral View Drop Down
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Points: 74 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mistral Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2008 at 10:02

I made a hole in the bottom of the tiller and glued with epoxy the inox pin, without using an extra bracket.

In the right seat I glued the bronze bus. Between teak/external fiberglass skin and internal cabin skin I glue a little teak list with a hole for the bus.
You can reach this space from the after-peak.
Be careful don't drill the second skin!
 
In order to prevent teak list break I put the bus between two external lists.
See the right part of the photo.
Are three years that my tp22 is working very well.
 
Ciao, Marco from Italy
 


Edited by mistral - 02 March 2008 at 11:20
mistral
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Points: 1256 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2008 at 10:57
Hi,

I have a extra bracket on my 311, like the one you find at the link to bracket

The bronze hole is on my TP10 and the pin is mounted on the bracket.

Does this clear your question?

Gregor

Edited by Gregor - 02 March 2008 at 10:59
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zephyrus View Drop Down
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Points: 38 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote zephyrus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2008 at 13:39
Thank you all for your quick responses. They give me some good ideas how to fix this properly. I will probably try to make a bracket from stainless steel myself (saving 50 euro's) it seems like a simple strip of metal anyhow. Installing the bronze bus seems logical to me as well. When it is fixed I will post some pictures.
Happy sailing www.onzeboot.com
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Gregor View Drop Down
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Points: 1256 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 March 2008 at 14:48
The bracket is made of aluminum instead of stanley steel. It's about 4mm thick.

Good luck with making it yourself!

Gregor
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Ole Østergaard View Drop Down
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Points: 77 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ole Østergaard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 March 2008 at 22:11

Hej Jeg har lavet hullet i gasbox låg, så er der ikke så meget der kan gå i stykker. Ulempen er dog at gas flasken er magnetisk, dette betyder dog ikke så meget da jeg ikke har koblet rorpiloten til andre instrumenter, og jeg bruger den til at holde kursen, som jeg sætter optisk. (sejl den vej som du sejler nu)

se billed på http://www.olp.dk/genaker%20telt%20varme.htm

tekst " der dritte mann"
 
 
MoDi Hanse312 Sail # 351
Ole Østergaard
Egå Marina
Århus
Danmark
olp@mail.dk
www.olp.dk
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Ole Østergaard View Drop Down
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Points: 77 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ole Østergaard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2008 at 14:28
Originally posted by Ole Østergaard Ole Østergaard wrote:

Hej Jeg har lavet hullet i gasbox låg, så er der ikke så meget der kan gå i stykker. Ulempen er dog at gas flasken er magnetisk, dette betyder dog ikke så meget da jeg ikke har koblet rorpiloten til andre instrumenter, og jeg bruger den til at holde kursen, som jeg sætter optisk. (sejl den vej som du sejler nu)

se billed på http://www.olp.dk/Genaker%20Telt%20Varme.htm

tekst " der dritte mann"
 
 
MoDi Hanse312 Sail # 351
Ole Østergaard
Egå Marina
Århus
Danmark
olp@mail.dk
www.olp.dk
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