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Anchor Locker

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AnnSea View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AnnSea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2010 at 00:41

Landlocked and others - Attached is a photo of my glassed in windlass shelf. Having seen how LandLocked did it was quite annoying, because it looks like a much easier solution than the one I chose! The hardest bit was glassing in the underside of the shelf - you need to be bit of a contortionist, and extracting yourself afterwards is a bit tricky.

In the photo you can see I haven't tidied up the power cables yet - I'll finish that with some sticky back cable tie mounts. In my case (as opposed to Landlock's job) I ran the power cable back to the old windlass mounting point, and that's why there is a an inspection port there.

To remove the windlass from the original position was quite tedious as well. I used a 2inch holesaw to make a couple of holes under the windlass and then used a hacksaw to expand the hole. It was still very poky trying to get a spanner in there. I've since reglued the cut out pieces back in place and given it a sand and paint job, and you'd never know the windlass had ever been there!






Edited by AnnSea - 16 July 2010 at 00:42
Tim



AnnSea 370e #418
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landlocked View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote landlocked Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2010 at 06:14
It does look like more work, but the end result looks very nice!   My problem is that I live 1000 km away from my boat so I wanted to arrive with something I could install during a weekend cruise.
 
My old factory windlass mount was difficult to remove due to the use of adhesives between the aluminum and fibreglass.  Finally I tried heating the aluminum with a torch and suddenly it literally popped off.  Next time I'll start with the heat.  Do you plan to cut away the rest of the old mount platform now that it is cut open?
 
Mine will be put to the test during an upcoming 2 week holiday so  I'll see if any flaws show up.
 
Thanks for the photos!
 


Edited by landlocked - 16 July 2010 at 06:19
"Kerkyra" 400e #042
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AnnSea View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AnnSea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2010 at 23:25
Hi Landlocked,

no, I don't plan on removing the old windlass mount - it seems like too much effort for too little gain. I'm not very good at fibreglassing.

1000 km's is a long way! Just to make you jealous I'll let you know that I can leave home, get to the dock, have the sails up and be out of the harbour on the open sea in less than 15 minutes! I'm also lucky enough to be able to do this 3-5 times a week all year round.
Tim



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Mark P View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 September 2010 at 08:13
I have the fibreglass foundation for the windlass - I am hoping to move the windlass this weekend, fitting it on a pre-fabricated stainless steel shelf.

MOST IMPORTANTLY Does anybody know how to access the bolts under the windlass without cutting the top or removing the trim from the underside?

I might cut access holes port and starboard of the locker and use ss bolts not screws.

How easy was it to re-route the cables from stbd side to port side?

Any feedback is appreciated as always.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walterkruk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 September 2010 at 08:47
To access the cables and the anchor winch bolts I have installed a inspection hatch in the forward bedroom (I did not wanted to remove the trip either). I found it very odd that there was no other way of reaching this as it is not very maintenance friendly.
Have fun!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AnnSea Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 September 2010 at 22:16
Hi Mark,

I didn't install an access port in the forward cabin, but in hindsight I think that's the best way to get access to the bolts. I solderered an extra 3 feet of cable - seems to work fine.
Tim



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landlocked View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote landlocked Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 September 2010 at 07:15
I already had an access port at the end of the V-berth.  I'm guessing my dealer put this in when they installed the windlass.
I didn't have much trouble moving the cables.  The factory-installed wiring was visible through the access port and I was able to pull them until I had the loose ends.   Then I dropped some string down through the new holes with some screws attached for weight and taped the string to the wire to pull it up and out through the new holes on the port side of the locker under my new windlass mounting plate.   I was very pleased to see that Hanse had run very heavy guage wire to the anchor locker, which had then been crimped to the windlass wire.
 
My boat (2006) had an aluminum windlass plate so there was no problem reaching underneath to remove the bolts.
 
I don't think you need to use bolts and nuts to mount the plate if it is similar to my installation.   The forces are all shear forces and the angle-iron brackets have a fair bit of surface area with adhesive.  If there was any force normal to the fiberglass surface then I think it would need a good backing plate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 September 2010 at 21:30
Thanks for the feedback - my shelf wasn't ready this weekend so I'll have a good root around tomorrow through the access hatch to prepare for next weekend.
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landlocked View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote landlocked Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 September 2010 at 23:23
By the way, I have since added some features (screws) to the aft edge of my mounting plate from which I hang my gloves and windlass control - it is a perfect spot for these.   The new mount has been working nicely - I really like being able to see underneath the windlass while operating and the mounting plate also makes an excellent step (with anti-skid tape) for when you are looking over the bow of the boat to hook up a snubber or pin the anchor in place etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 October 2010 at 15:41
I finished the job! Hurray - the biggest design flaw on the Hanse 400 (IMHO) has been solved.

Finally I removed the trim in the forecabin underneath the old windlass (as the boat has the glassed in windlass foundation) - it was not so difficult in the end - I just cut the silicon mastic, cut 2 screws on the forward lower front edge (in way of a wooden batten stuck on the lining) and then pivoted the trim down and forwards. It did not come out from behind the deck lining but I could still work behind it easily enough.

Also, as others have suggested I fitted a cleat in way of 2 of the old holes of the windlass and filled the others with sikaflex.

Will take photos and post them, but I think it was an excellent, clean easy to install solution.
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