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Autopilot Installation for 350 |
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pjwdoyle@yahoo.com
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Joined: 28 September 2018 Location: Toronto, Canada Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Topic: Autopilot Installation for 350Posted: 08 November 2019 at 23:16 |
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Hello; my 350 came from the factory without an autopilot, and she can be tiring to hand-steer on long passages... after being told flatly by my sailing partner at 2am on a doublehanded passage during our watch handover that "I'm not doing this again unless you install an autopilot!", I guess I don't have much choice!
What experiences (good or bad) have people had with aftermarket autopilot installations? Thanks!
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Phil
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JUTTER
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Joined: 05 November 2015 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 100 |
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Posted: 09 November 2019 at 08:51 |
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Hi Phil,
My H350 (2010) had no factory installed AP either. I installed an AP myself in 2015. It is quite a job, but perfectly doable for a handy person. After five sailing seasons I am very glad having installed the AP: it is not only comfortable on longer passages, it also allows you to leave the wheel safely to do other things like hoisting or take down the mainsail, reefing, adjusting a line etc . I installed the Simrad DD15 with the B&G AC 42, which works very well on my H 350. If you might intend to do the same, I can provide a lot more details on the installation of mine. Claude |
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JUTTER, Hanse 350#0256, 2010, deep keel, Zeeland
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350Bob
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Joined: 24 August 2015 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 184 |
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Posted: 09 November 2019 at 11:26 |
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Hi Phil,
Not a direct answer to your question but it may me useful. Our 2009 350 came with a factory fitted Jeffa drive unit and a Northstar Explorer control. We always found this very clunky and aggressive to use even after playing with the software options. After a lightning strike we replaced the damaged drive unit with a Raymarine ACU 200, which is a pleasure to use and I am sure much kinder to the steering system. Attached is a picture of the installed drive unit. Good luck Bob ![]() |
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mojoraven
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Joined: 07 October 2015 Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Posted: 10 November 2019 at 07:53 |
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Hi Phil, Installing
an autopilot sounds daunting, but it’s fairly simple actually. An
autopilot is made up of two parts. One part is the drive unit (that
does the physical work) and one part is the brain that tells the
drive unit what to do. For the
first part, you should really only consider using the Jefa DD1, the
black box shown in the picture below (same as Bob). It is simply
attached to the boat by drilling four through holes, one in each
corner, and bolting in place with a washer and nuts (see picture 3). The Hanse 350 has already an embedded reinforcement in that
place designed for the drive unit. ![]() Picture 1. Drive unit. The circles marks the drill holes through the hull. A rod is then connected from the unit to the rudder. The placement of the unit is not needed to be terrible precise, just make sure that the “arm” can swing freely. That’s it! All done for that part unless you need a rudder position indicator (that’s the other arm on the left in Bob’s picture), which brings us to the second part. There are numerous of suppliers to choose from, but if you choose Garmin, Raymarine or B&G, you can get the Jefa DD1 with integrated rudder position sensor and you don’t need to do anything else. If you choose another system you need to install the sensor, as seen on Bob’s picture. I’m
using a Garmin autopilot, which consist of four pieces. A Helm Control Display, a Course Computer Unit (CCU),
a Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
and an audio alarm buzzer.
See picture below.
Picture 2. Autopilot components The helm control display
needs to be cut in place in the cockpit
on either starboard or port side. This is where you set and
control the autopilot.
I’ve placed the CCU
and ECU in the
starboard side of the stern transom, just screwed directly into the
wood bulkhead. The picture below shows the placement of
the ECU. The CCU
is placed on the other side of the maintenance hatch.
Picture 3. Stern transom All you need now is to do the connections between the Jefa and the autopilot. This is really also straight forward and the autopilot manual will have a good description of that. Luckily, Hanse have already pulled the power cable to the transom, so you don’t have to worry about connecting cables to the boat. All you have to do is cut the cable in the transom and connect it to the autopilot unit. All done. Now, once you have done all this you may consider installing a wind vane and a plotter too, in order to fully enjoy and get all out of your new autopilot. But that’s another thread. Good luck with it all.
Edited by mojoraven - 10 November 2019 at 08:03 |
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Brufan
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Joined: 16 December 2010 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 672 |
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Posted: 10 November 2019 at 08:12 |
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You can but you don't need to drill through cockpit floor to install the DD1 drive. You just have to drill and tap 10mm thick aluminium plate that's laminate there. Then four 8mm bolts with an isolation paste (tefgel or Duralac)
Edited by Brufan - 10 November 2019 at 08:19 |
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Bruno
hanse 355 - 57 S/Y Spicy Ginger White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system, Simrad (now B&G)-Jefa autopilot. |
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coriolis2
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Joined: 06 January 2008 Location: Delfzijl Status: Offline Points: 301 |
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Posted: 29 December 2019 at 15:48 |
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"Coriolis" H350 #045 (ex Waarschip 570 #? 1987/1992, ex Waarschip 28LD #7 1994/2007)
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alettaenmarcel
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Joined: 15 August 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1246 |
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Posted: 30 December 2019 at 17:01 |
The point of only tap is not if it is strong enough or not, but is is very easy to get stolen. Much things on our hanses are only mounted with scews from the ouatside , and with bolts all the way with nuts makes stealing less easy. |
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Kids Dingys 72-79 ,Several Windsurfboards 79-86 OK dingy competitions 86-92 , Trotter Pandora Race 92-98, Friendship 28 Sport 98-05, Hanse 370 06-......
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sdaniel
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Joined: 31 March 2018 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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Posted: 07 January 2020 at 14:04 |
I did the brilliant install suggested by Rob with the SD10. I used B&G Triton 3 plus NAC-2 control system. Very cost effective and it is completely noise free. I would argue this is just as effective as the DD15 install and a real alternative. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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alettaenmarcel
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Joined: 15 August 2006 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1246 |
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Posted: 07 January 2020 at 14:08 |
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very clever suggestion
I am about to think very hard about this because it is much cheaper than the drive from Jefa. thanks for posting. gr Marcel |
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Kids Dingys 72-79 ,Several Windsurfboards 79-86 OK dingy competitions 86-92 , Trotter Pandora Race 92-98, Friendship 28 Sport 98-05, Hanse 370 06-......
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Captain Cook
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Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1245 |
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Posted: 07 January 2020 at 15:23 |
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I (myself) have installed a Jefa DD1 which as far as I know is identical to the Simrad DD15 (Both manufactured by Jefa). As you can read in this forum, the Jefa works okay for yachts below 45 feet. You may have to consider to further seal the unit with some kind of sealant in all places where moisture can possibly enter. (E.g the assembly between bottom and upper part). The unit is (as is) not able to withstand a high pressure cleaning. As for the abovementioned advice: "......placement of the unit is not needed to be terrible precise", I will strongly advice you to read the instructions on the Jefa homepage. If you follow those instructions there may be a warranty in case of a failure. It is crucial that the drive is placed correctly and indeed "terrible precise". There are a few posts here on myhanse on the subject.
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Freya H400 #27 (2006),2-cabin, 40HP 3JH4E, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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