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Boiler does not heat water on shore power |
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PowerGriD
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Joined: 02 June 2014 Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Topic: Boiler does not heat water on shore powerPosted: 22 July 2014 at 11:51 |
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Hi,
Anyone experience problem that the boiler does not heat the water when connected to shore power? There is a switch labeled "Boiler" under the chart table that I made sure is switched on, but it does not heat the water when I'm connected to shore power. The water only gets hot when the engine is running. I bought a used Hanse 345 (2013 mod) just a few months ago, and don't have long experience with it so it could be not knowing how this is supposed to work :-) .....or do I need to order a service/repair. best regards Lidvar Kornberg |
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Fendant
Admiral
Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1671 |
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Posted: 22 July 2014 at 13:58 |
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Hej Lidvar,
there is a electrical plug near the Boiler, which is located beneath the floor in the port locker. Make sure that it is firmly inserted. You can also easily check wether you have 220 V at the plug. Did you check the fault current switch ? Is the temperature control dial at the heater in the middle Position ? If the FI switch is on and you have 220 V into the heater, the heating element Needs to be replaced. |
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Frank
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skipper
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Joined: 16 February 2008 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 825 |
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Posted: 22 July 2014 at 15:36 |
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One easy mistake to do is to connect the waterheater to shore power before it is filled with water and then will the "temperature fuse" secure the heater by being released.
Read the operators manual how to reset it, I had to do that some year ago and I had to remove the plastic cover and push on the re-set button of the heat protection thermostat. Edited by skipper - 22 July 2014 at 15:36 |
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Cheers,
Skipper Former owner of Hanse 342 2005 (Sparcraft mast, white hull, wheel steering, deep draft keel, short rudder) |
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770 |
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Posted: 23 July 2014 at 19:12 |
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My isotemp has an element mounted in the centre of the unit. It is exposed by removing a metal cover held by 2 screws
The element can be removed by disconnecting the cables ( power off of course) & just pulling. it has a couple of tabs that transfer the electric on the face of the element there should be a small thermo couple switch which ejects when the unit overheats Some versions have a blue switch some need a pencil to push the switch that on mine looks like a small rivet. If you hold it to your ear when you push you should hear the click as it re engages there is also a rotating temperature dial on the element as well which will stop the water getting too near boiling point & be dangerous to the user Of course first thing would be to test you are actually getting a current to the element by placing a meter over the poles. ( the meter will cost you about 10 euros so is handy on the boat for other jobs) |
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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PowerGriD
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Joined: 02 June 2014 Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Posted: 01 August 2014 at 08:28 |
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Hi all,
Thanx for all the tips! First of all, the power cable was not connected :-) New boat so I just assumed that Hanse had connected it when mounting the unit. Then I checked that the electrical plug had 220V (and it did). I inserted the power cord and waited several hours, but still no warm water. I even waited over night, but still no warm water. I checked that the temp was in the middle possition (see picture). I tried to remove the plastic cover to see if there was something obvious that was wrong, but the pipes coming from the engine prevented me from removing the cover. This also prevents me from reaching the reset button. I tried to switch of the main power switch and unplug and plug the power cord again. I was reading the boiler manual, and just when I was about to give up, then the water started to become warm (?). Nothing that I did was any obvious solution. So, I turn of the fresh water pump and left the boat and returned the day after and now the water was cold again :-(. I do suspect that for some reason that the temperature fuse kicks in, but I don't know what triggers it. Does the fresh water pump need to be on for the heater to work (e.g staying on as long as the boiler has power)? Do I every time need to tap some water through the system before the boiler is turned on? I think I need to figure out a way to get the plastic cover of so I can get to the heating element without disconnect the pipes from the engine. ![]() ![]() |
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