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Bowsprit Pad-eye for Code0 / Zero

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H8jer View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 January 2021 at 10:09
I am perhaps getting either a 65m2 Code Zero or a 60 m2 Screecher X for the next season and I would like to improve the strength of the bowsprit.

This post is showing the Problem and a solution:

But instead of using a U-bolt as in the lower picture (that would require a inspection hatch) - I would use an Eye-bolt to replace the lowest bolt.



Has anyone else been down that road?
My hope is that there is a bracket on the other side...
Anyways I will try to remove the lower bolt to measure it.

/H8jer




Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Brufan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brufan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2021 at 11:06
Once I checked the bracket inside the forepeak space with a camera (on my H355).  I'm still thinking about installing a fitting for bobstay.
The aluminium reinforcement plate for forestay chainplate extends approx 7-8 cm downward from the last bolt.  So it's a little bite longer than the (external) chainplate itself (at least on my H355).
You can drill & tap a hole juste under the chainplate.
BUT I'm not sure this kind of fittings will stand upward load only with one bolt tighten in the 10 mm thick aluminium reinforcement plate.
Bruno

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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2021 at 12:41
Originally posted by Brufan Brufan wrote:


The aluminium reinforcement plate for forestay chainplate extends approx 7-8 cm downward from the last bolt.
BUT I'm not sure this kind of fittings will stand upward load only with one bolt tighten in the 10 mm thick aluminium reinforcement plate.


I would think that it is sufficient strength enough. I would use a wire (or bar) with minimum stretch and no pre-tension.

My experience with dyneema is that, in the beginning they stretch more than a wire does. Because I also use a bow-ladder, then a fixed bar is not the best option.

BTW. This is my removable bow-ladder before electro-polish and 3M 'Safety Walk' applied:




/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 14 January 2021 at 12:54
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2021 at 13:49
Looks like Plattgatt has already used the suggested solution:

And there is no need for a wire but can be an all dyneema solution. Great

/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 14 January 2021 at 13:51
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iemand View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iemand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2021 at 11:32
Your solution to install it from outside should work execpt one issue: The screw needs to be tight. That could cause that the eye is not in the proper direction. So maybe a loose small bracket screwed with a bolt should work better.
Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 hours 58 minutes ago at 09:20
Originally posted by iemand iemand wrote:

That could cause that the eye is not in the proper direction. So maybe a loose small bracket screwed with a bolt should work better.

Thx for your input.
I would like to avoid drilling any new holes in the bow. Maybe I don't picture the loose bracket that you suggest correctly.

The picture from plattgatt indicates that he also uses the 'jam nut' principal. This can ensure that the eye is in the proper direction.
Picture from wikipedia:


/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 19 hours 54 minutes ago at 09:24
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 hours 13 minutes ago at 16:05
Took some photos today and measured the bolt.

It looks like a stainless A4 Counter Sunk screw M10(guess) x 70mm.
It was 25mm wide and umbraco/Allen Key size 8mm.





example of counter sunk:


So if the bolt is in fact counter sunk it can spell trouble because A4 eye-bolts and washers are rarely counter sunk.

But perhaps I can build one by drilling a hole through the head of a counter sunk bolt




/H8jer


Edited by H8jer - 13 hours 5 minutes ago at 16:13
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