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Bowsprit Pad-eye for Code0 / Zero

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H8jer View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 January 2021 at 10:09
I am perhaps getting either a 65m2 Code Zero or a 60 m2 Screecher X for the next season and I would like to improve the strength of the bowsprit.

This post is showing the Problem and a solution:

But instead of using a U-bolt as in the lower picture (that would require a inspection hatch) - I would use an Eye-bolt to replace the lowest bolt.



Has anyone else been down that road?
My hope is that there is a bracket on the other side...
Anyways I will try to remove the lower bolt to measure it.

/H8jer




Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Brufan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brufan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2021 at 11:06
Once I checked the bracket inside the forepeak space with a camera (on my H355).  I'm still thinking about installing a fitting for bobstay.
The aluminium reinforcement plate for forestay chainplate extends approx 7-8 cm downward from the last bolt.  So it's a little bite longer than the (external) chainplate itself (at least on my H355).
You can drill & tap a hole juste under the chainplate.
BUT I'm not sure this kind of fittings will stand upward load only with one bolt tighten in the 10 mm thick aluminium reinforcement plate.
Bruno

hanse 355 - 57

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White hull, 2 cabins, Volvo D1-30, Selden rig, removable mainsheet track system (modifications done now), Simrad-Jefa autopilot.
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2021 at 12:41
Originally posted by Brufan Brufan wrote:


The aluminium reinforcement plate for forestay chainplate extends approx 7-8 cm downward from the last bolt.
BUT I'm not sure this kind of fittings will stand upward load only with one bolt tighten in the 10 mm thick aluminium reinforcement plate.


I would think that it is sufficient strength enough. I would use a wire (or bar) with minimum stretch and no pre-tension.

My experience with dyneema is that, in the beginning they stretch more than a wire does. Because I also use a bow-ladder, then a fixed bar is not the best option.

BTW. This is my removable bow-ladder before electro-polish and 3M 'Safety Walk' applied:




/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 14 January 2021 at 12:54
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 January 2021 at 13:49
Looks like Plattgatt has already used the suggested solution:

And there is no need for a wire but can be an all dyneema solution. Great

/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 14 January 2021 at 13:51
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iemand View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iemand Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2021 at 11:32
Your solution to install it from outside should work execpt one issue: The screw needs to be tight. That could cause that the eye is not in the proper direction. So maybe a loose small bracket screwed with a bolt should work better.
Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2021 at 09:20
Originally posted by iemand iemand wrote:

That could cause that the eye is not in the proper direction. So maybe a loose small bracket screwed with a bolt should work better.

Thx for your input.
I would like to avoid drilling any new holes in the bow. Maybe I don't picture the loose bracket that you suggest correctly.

The picture from plattgatt indicates that he also uses the 'jam nut' principal. This can ensure that the eye is in the proper direction.
Picture from wikipedia:


/H8jer



Edited by H8jer - 16 January 2021 at 09:24
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2021 at 16:05
Took some photos today and measured the bolt.

It looks like a stainless A4 Counter Sunk screw M10(guess) x 70mm.
It was 25mm wide and umbraco/Allen Key size 8mm.





example of counter sunk:


So if the bolt is in fact counter sunk it can spell trouble because A4 eye-bolts and washers are rarely counter sunk.

But perhaps I can build one by drilling a hole through the head of a counter sunk bolt




/H8jer


Edited by H8jer - 16 January 2021 at 16:13
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jens Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 09:52
I replaced the lowest bolt om my 370 with a bolt as you suggest, and it works just fine.

I have made a round inspection hatch in front of the anchor locker, and through this I could put an alu plate behind a nut on the inside. It is maybe not needed since the hull is very thick in the front and the pull on the bolt is mainly up and not out of the hull. 
But the inspection hole is easy to make and then you are sure that it will last. Since the hull is very thick chose the longest version of the bolt.

I have had a lot of load on my bolt with both CZ and asymmetric spinnaker no problems seen Smile.

Jens
Hanse 370, #423, 2008
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 13:28
Originally posted by Jens Jens wrote:

I replaced the lowest bolt om my 370 with a bolt as you suggest, and it works just fine.
I have made a round inspection hatch in front of the anchor locker
I have had a lot of load on my bolt with both CZ and asymmetric spinnaker no problems seen Smile.

Thx Jens

Because of how our boat are built, I think that we will all have to install an inspection hatch in the front of the anchor locker at some time in the lifespan of the boat.
This is the only way to access the nuts on either the forestay-bracket or for both sides of the pulpits. My pulpit is bleeding rust from either the nut or a washer that perhaps is only A2 and not A4 Stainless. So I would have to change this at some point.

But as an old sailing instructor for young dinghy sailors I also did a lot of maintenance on small "unsinkable" keelboats. And sadly my experience is that inspection hatches are only waterproof when they are new.

When I brought our Hanse 370 back from Holland in November some years back, we went through a small channel 20sm from home with head winds and a heavy current in the opposite direction.
I did experience that the Anchor Locker got completely filled with water. So much that that the Hatch opened up from the pressure from the water and the fenders started to float around on the deck.
So I don't really like the idea of holes in the anchor-locker. I also think the drain-hose is a bad design, because it can fail and also fill the boat with sea-water.

Long story - But the point is that I will try to do this fix without making a hatch (for the time being...)

Btw. If you don't follow Eric Aanderaa 'No Bullsh*t Just Sailing' on you-tube - I can highly recommend his videos. In this link he is at wintertime in the North-sea and the chain-hole in the Anchor-Locker is slowly filling up the boat. (The reason was a very bad design decision from Eric in the first place - he fixes it in a later video)
https://youtu.be/lhU773vttms?t=1219 (minute: 20:19)

/H8jer
    


Edited by H8jer - Yesterday at 13:54
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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