|
| |
| Welcome to myHanse.com the forum for Hanse Yachts owners throughout the world. | |
Cruising Chutes |
Post Reply 
|
Page <1 3456> |
| Author | |
FriFlyt 
Lieutenant 
Joined: 28 May 2008 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 46 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Posted: 11 July 2008 at 18:12 |
|
Steinar, thanks for your reply!
I've mounted my gennaker by placing the tack line in parallel with the furler line. (Ending up in a clutch). Since the gennaker was ready it has been too windy to try it out. 
Anyway, you got the answer to my next question: How the anchor would affect the tack line block... The original bolt locking the gennaker pin was 2-3mm too short, so I've replaced it temporary. Has anyone solved that? Asking for a new one from Hanse or tried to adjust the gennaker pin? Tomorrow morning I'm going for 3 weeks sailing in the north coast of Norway. Suppose that will give me a possibility to try out the gennaker. 
|
|
|
FriFlyt
370#332 |
|
 |
|
|
Starlight
Sub Lieutenant 
Joined: 26 October 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 14 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 26 October 2008 at 11:01 |
|
Hi - I am considering buying a 370 and would like to race it with an asymmetric spinnaker. When you gybe your spinnaker are you doing an "outside" or "inside" gybe. I wonder with such a short bowsprit whether an inside gybe is possible, and how easy you find gybing.
Thank you for any info. Hello from Eastern Canada where sailing is shut down for this year!
|
|
|
Roger Ware, Kingston, ON, Canada
|
|
|
|
|
Starlight
Sub Lieutenant
Joined: 26 October 2008 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 14 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 26 October 2008 at 11:08 |
|
My understanding is that a code 0 sail has to be kept a high luff tension, both in order to set properly and so that it will furl. Is the Hanse gennaker pin strong enough for these loads? It doesnt look very robust. Thanks very much, Roger
|
|
|
Roger Ware, Kingston, ON, Canada
|
|
|
|
|
Fun & Function
Commander 
Joined: 02 December 2006 Location: Norway Status: Offline Points: 134 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 October 2008 at 21:24 |
|
Roger,
Welcome to the forum!
You are correct with your assumption - we always do "outside" gybes with the gennaker. The gap between the gennaker and the forestay furler is too small for an inside gybe.
It is fairly easy to do a gybe after you have tried it a few times. Plan and talk through the maneuver with your crew before you try it.
|
|
|
Steinar
Hanse 370e #348 Oslo, Norway |
|
|
|
|
Renegade
Lieutenant
Joined: 26 November 2006 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 37 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 10 November 2008 at 18:21 |
|
I don't think any of the locking pins fit properly, (Hanse comment!!) the 'land' below pin head needs to fit into the hole in the bow sprit Pin holder, then locking key at the bottom works. Being a marine engineer I machined the land on mine on my lathe (tough stainless so need tipped tool), this gives the extra few mm & works perfectly now.
|
|
|
Anthony Porter
Hanse 370 Renegade of Brighton |
|
|
|
|
samuel
Admiral of the Fleet 
Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 12 November 2008 at 12:20 |
|
Perhaps I should not be commenting on this forum with you big boys as I only have a 311
However, the subject of cruising chute interests me
So apologies for the intrusion
As 90% of my sailing is single handed my family persuaded me to have a 65M2 cruising chute ( I am assuming the difference between a geneker & a cruising chute is that a geneker has a straight luff to point higher & a cruising chute has a curved luff to aid down wind sailing
Personally I find the sail awkward as it does not go well dead down wind so you have to reach off
Then the size of the sail overpowers the boat & one ends up on ones ear
With a spinnaker you can run dead downwind & still stay upright even in very windy conditions. (That's a racing comment rather than a cruising one)
My next problem is my Hyde snuffer In spite of a large open fibreglass chute mouth the sail still gets stuck in on the initial hoist. Then the mouthpiece swings about threatening to decapitate the hoister. then it smashes the deck light on the way up if you just happen to pause for a breather at that point. Once it is to the top it flops one side if the forestay & does not always flop to the other side when gybing from the cockpit in light winds. so one has to go foreward to try & flick it over
If it is hoisted in one tack you can ensure the hoist line is the windward side of the sail so easier for the crew to hoist the snuffer to release the sail
However, to drop the sail the pull down line can be on the leeward side of the snuffer so you have to pull it down from under the sail so it tends to jam. Even if you leave it on the right side you may have to gybe & it once again on the wrong side
Can anyone tell me how to rig a snuffer to stop this?
So far I have found it easier to remove the snuffer & bring the sail down under the boom where I can control the halliard letting off 2 metres at a time pulling in a bit of sail then letting off a bit more.
It is also lighter & easier to hoist without the snuffer & when it catches a bit of wind it flies foreward so making the halliard less likely to get friction as it does with a snuffer hanging down against the mast. You just have to winch a bit faster to stop it going in the water.
My downhaul is set from the cockpit & is long enough to let it come all the way back . It needs to be there so one can constantly trim it without having to go foreward. You get a lot more speed by playing the tack a bit when changing course slightly with a sail with a big roach in the luff
Daydream Believer
|
|
|
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
|
|
|
|
|
colincooper
Rear Admiral 
Joined: 23 October 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 562 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 November 2008 at 09:32 |
|
Samuel,
The chute we have works from about 150 degrees downwind up to around 80 upwind. In stronger winds you can't get nearly as close to upwind without excessive heal - but then the normal sails work well on their own.
As regards launching with a sock I can offer what works for us. First it is best to launch at about 150 degrees downwind using the main to shelter. Second you need to shorten the line coming from the bow as much as you can and have the launching bag over the anchor locker. Third you need someone hauling in the sheet as you pull up the sock. If we do all that right the snuffer almost flies up by itself and certainly doesn't flap around.
We find it simpler and easier to pull down the sock, gybe, and relaunch on the other side. But we don't race.
Hope this helps.
Edited by colincooper - 13 November 2008 at 09:33 |
|
|
Colin (owner of Hilde - a 370)
|
|
|
|
|
landlocked
Rear Admiral
Joined: 12 April 2005 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 568 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 November 2008 at 20:17 |
|
Roger, I'm not sure if you're still out there shopping for a Hanse and thinking about spinnakers but I'll offer up my experience:
I have a general-purpose cruising chute which I enjoy very much for cruising. I've tried both gybing techniques and had successes and failures with both. I am starting to think that dousing in the sock and raising again may be the best thing, as suggested earlier in this topic. If the wind is light you can pull the sail around the inside of the forestay but in stronger winds this can be difficult. Gybing around the front of the forestay can also be tricky because the sprit isn't very long, but seems to be the best approach. Even if you execute the gybe well it is pretty easy to get a sheet hooked on the anchor or bow roller.
I also do one fairly long race each spring and perform respectably on the upwind leg, but we get killed on the downwind leg. Some may argue that this has more to do with seamanship, which it might, but I prefer to think it's my sail that's to blame :). The race is usually beating to the mark and almost straight downwind on the way back. We can't sail much lower than 140 degrees and if there's a lot of wind and big waves I find it pretty tricky keeping the sail full without broaching.
Here is the comment from my sailmaker, who has worked with a few Hanse's:
We have come a long way with asymmetrical designs and they work very well on an articulating pole and reasonably well on a long sprit, but an asymmetrical on a short sprit will not sail well downwind on the Hanse 400.
|
|
|
"Kerkyra" 400e #042
|
|
|
|
|
Ian Robinson
Captain 
Joined: 24 November 2005 Location: Essex UK Status: Offline Points: 246 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 November 2008 at 17:01 |
|
Dear All,
Responding To Roger's query below and having used my Code 0 all summer on my 370 I can report that the sprit and pin show no signs of being inadequate for the task. During a recent test sail for the benefit of the North Sail's designer of my Code 0 we flew it at 18 knots true at 150 degrees and it was very stable and easy to handle. If being flown at these high angles the designer recommended that the luff tension be eased to put some belly in the sail.
"My understanding is that a code 0 sail has to be kept a high luff tension, both in order to set properly and so that it will furl. Is the Hanse gennaker pin strong enough for these loads? It doesnt look very robust. Thanks very much, Roger"
Regards
Ian
|
|
|
Ostara a 370#88
|
|
|
|
|
Meaban
Lieutenant Commander 
Joined: 15 May 2007 Status: Offline Points: 74 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 November 2008 at 18:01 |
|
Yes you are right...
|
|
|
H370e #398 "ANSE VATA"
La Trinité sur Mer France |
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
Page <1 3456> |
| Tweet |
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
|
Links : www.hanseyachts.co.uk www.hanseyachts.com www.fjordboats.co.uk www.dehler.co.uk www.varianta.co.uk |
Topic Options