Damaged keel

The lead Hanse used is recup material and not clean from dirt and other sh*t.

We have many spots on the lead part where the dirt is breaking out.

Take attention to this.

The lead is a different story to me. That is more a shape or a cosmetic thing which you can repair or not. The issue is that the whole lead part is not really protected. normally we should all cover our keels with GRP completely but who is willing to do all the work. Than you have solved the rust issue as well if you are connection the hull and the keel with laminate. 

In the meantime we all fight against small rust spots and the very small crack rust between the lead and the iron but that is really different from the picture from the beginning. 

So take of the keel - better safe than sorry!

The max torque values depend on the strenght of the bolts, but you will need industrial tools to work with those large bolts. The normal DIY tools are too tiny.

My own torque wrench can manage up to 210 Nm.

This indicates, that to the 30 and 42 mm bolts you need large industrial tools.

It may also be wise to unfasten the bolts one at a time, and only when the keel is on a hard surface.

The steel grade is normally stamped on the end of the nut (8.8 - 10.9 - 12.9).

A M30 in grade 12.9 has a value of 1977 Nm / 1458 ft-lb.

My danish sailor friend has decided to trust the boatyard in the evaluation, that the keel is repaired to a state, where it is as good as new.

He has a report, which tells, that the insurance company will cover any damage happening in the future, which can be blamed on the old mending of the keel.

He even tells me (joking I hope?), that as a kid he sailed with retractable keel, so he expects to be able to reach a port in case his keel falls off.

:Kjeld