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Earth/ground wire

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Brownemi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brownemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Earth/ground wire
    Posted: 12 April 2021 at 13:25
Hi readers, greetings from down under. I am a new H385 2012 model owner, and am following through on the buying survey report which found that the earth wires to the rear keel bolt were needing to be reconnected.

I did an advance search and saw the posts that Hanse recommended this and the newer, conflicting 418 thread  that said Hanse are now reconnecting/bonding earth wires to both keel and rudder in the last few years. Nothing is straight forward is it WinkMy boat has a galvanic isolation unit, but it is kept on a swing mooring far away from any shore power or marinas. I rely solely on DC only.

First question, do I need to reconnect the wires or not? Secondly, I am upgrading the standard 350w inverter to a larger pure sine wave 1500w unit and I should ground the case.  If the keel isnt grounded, what then is the ground point? It may be a naive question being no expert on marine electronics, but the surveyor said reconnect the keel ground, whilst the boat broker said no I didnt have to.

Thanks for your anticipated patience,

Yours confused
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 April 2021 at 22:25
Jefa is the manufacturer of rudder and steering, so read their advice on the Jefa homepage.
I would never connect the rudder to the boats ground/keel/-engine.
On my 400 I had a small amount of corrosion on the rudder, because I had painted with copper-paint too close to the rudder.
To stop this I made a copper-free zone 30 cm around the rudder shaft, and I connected an aluminium button-anode to the aluminium rudder. This anode has a 15 cm copper-free zone, and is ONLY connected to the rudder.
Do not use zinc anodes to alu, because alu is more reactive than zinc. Use alu or magnesium.

Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Carlosailfan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlosailfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2021 at 06:48
Hi Captain Cook,

Confirm your story,
i had exactly the same issue as you describe, my dealer painted the copper coat on the rudder and guess, minor damage to the rudder shaft. I removed the coat and installed an anode only for the rudder and now it is fine :).
Best regards
/C
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Brownemi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brownemi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2021 at 12:16
thanks Captain and Carlos, I appreciate your comments and will definitely look at the rudder situation.

Back to my other questions, does the earth wire need to be connected to the keel and if I ground a new inverter to its case, will it be grounded if the keel earth wire remains disconnected?

Any thoughts please?


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350Bob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 350Bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2021 at 12:20
if anybody has any pictures of how they installed the rudder anode I would be really grateful if you would share them please.

Many thanks

Bob
H350 #205
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Carlosailfan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlosailfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2021 at 06:42
Hi Bob, i have no ground wire attached to the rudder but a thick cable to the anode. The anode itself is not the classic small one they put on in factory but an bigger version with more surface, and yes maybe an overkill.
In the Hanse shop you will find the factory version they put on + the bolts, think this works also fine. I have somewhere a picture and i have to look for, there you can see the place of installation. In general not a rocket science seen most important is, nearby the rudder to keep the wire to it short and accessible form the inside to access the bolts in case of. ( and of course under the waterline :) )

I discover they offer also a larger internal plate ( in green ) with 2 bolts on it to go through the hull, this i made myself out of stainless steel and installed on ours, it works fine, to see @ the erosion of the anode :).
If i can find the pictures i post them.

Stay safe !!




Best regards
/C
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350Bob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 350Bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2021 at 21:51
Hi Carlo,

Many thanks for the reply and pictures.

Bob
H350 #205
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Downeaster View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Downeaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 April 2021 at 21:34
Originally posted by Captain Cook Captain Cook wrote:

Jefa is the manufacturer of rudder and steering, so read their advice on the Jefa homepage.
I would never connect the rudder to the boats ground/keel/-engine.
On my 400 I had a small amount of corrosion on the rudder, because I had painted with copper-paint too close to the rudder.
To stop this I made a copper-free zone 30 cm around the rudder shaft, and I connected an aluminium button-anode to the aluminium rudder. This anode has a 15 cm copper-free zone, and is ONLY connected to the rudder.
Do not use zinc anodes to alu, because alu is more reactive than zinc. Use alu or magnesium.


Zinc is fine for protecting aluminum alloys in salt water.  The table you show is for the pure metals.  Rudder stocks, outdrives, etc. are all of high quality aluminum alloys. 
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Carlosailfan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Carlosailfan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 April 2021 at 07:10
External position of the Rudder Anode. Could not take a picture from the inside at the moment seen all material is in.

Best regards
/C
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