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Radio fusion

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boomjack View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 May 2021 at 09:15
He there,

Anyone can help?

Does anyone knows where the radio fusion fuse is located?
Is there any other bilge pump then the one located in the mast foot compartment?

 I’m trying to understand how is the water evacuated from the space between the hull and the Mould?

Any advice will be interesting....

Thanks!
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Admiral
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fendant Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 04:42
Grüezi Mana,

the radio fuses are both 10 A and located on the large Würth panel accessible under the chart table.
sorry, can't help you with the bilge pump. I assume that the 575 has more than one.
BR
Frank
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boomjack View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boomjack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 06:22
Gruezi Fendant!

Thanks for your answer Frank, ok that's what I checked, so it's not the fuse...
For the bilge, still trying to better understand the system...

Re Lithium batteries, the contact you gave me, who is really excellent, told me that for my system, there would be a lot to replace to be efficient, so I just replaced the pack with normal Zenith Gel batteries and will wait a bit more to go to lithium.
All the best,

D
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Pzucchel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pzucchel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 07:09
Originally posted by boomjack boomjack wrote:

Gruezi Fendant!

Thanks for your answer Frank, ok that's what I checked, so it's not the fuse...
For the bilge, still trying to better understand the system...

Re Lithium batteries, the contact you gave me, who is really excellent, told me that for my system, there would be a lot to replace to be efficient, so I just replaced the pack with normal Zenith Gel batteries and will wait a bit more to go to lithium.
All the best,

D

The comment on lithium is strange. I replaced 4x agm batteries with 2x lithium, mastervolt mli ultra 5500, and I tripled the usable capacity.
Hanse588#55
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boomjack View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boomjack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2021 at 23:00
@Pzucchel,
what is your system like? did you just replace the 4 by the 2 lithium?
Thanks!
D
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Pzucchel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pzucchel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2021 at 07:02
I had 4x agm at 160Ah nominal as service batteries. With a car testing device I knew that their health state was at 80%, and I am preparing for the world arc so I didn't want to take any risk. The system is primarily mastervolt, so I decided to install 2x mastervolt ultra mli 5500 at their place. They have 400Ah, but because of the higher average voltage of these batteries they have a higher energy stored over the range 100% to zero. And you can use their charge down to zero,  or 20% of you want to treat them very well (with  agm, the minimum suggested is 50%). 

I have a masscombi charger, so I converted the system to masterbus by adding a cheap adapter to it. It attaches in place of the charging panel that would have been obsolete anyway, so I installed a czone 7 nearby the wurth. To have the czone communicating with the Masterbus, you also need a czone /masterbus bridge in between. 

For clarity, the battery layout suggest to put, for each battery, a 500A fuse and a relay controlled by the batteries via masterbus. These batteries have their own intelligence, voltage reporting, etc. So they shut the relay down in a programmable way. You can add conditions yourself... 

Finally, I also exploited the new layout to add 1.1kW of solar panels. I used two mastervolt sccm converters, that reach the batteries in parallel of the mastercombi, and that are also connected to the masterbus. 

Masscombi and Sccm need to be reprogrammed to different voltages:you need moving one dipswitch on the masterbus and change the sccm and masscombi voltages via a masterbus/usb interface with a PC. 


The last detail :I still have two agm batteries for the engine and the panda generator. For the time being the voltages are very near to the agm one, but floating is different. So, i plan separating them with a mastervolt chargemaster 12/12 that will treat the agm batteries as agm batteries, exactly like it happens already for the 24 V circuits... 

The system now is largely more powerful and better controlled and monitored. 

Hope it helps, I don't have a formal schematics but happy to provide more details... 



Edited by Pzucchel - 26 May 2021 at 22:11
Hanse588#55
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boomjack View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boomjack Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 May 2021 at 21:55
many thanks, I will rediscuss the matter with the electrician, but not now..... at least a couple of years!
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Black Diamond View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Diamond Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 00:08
There are 3 bilge pumps on the 575.   One is at the base of the mast, another is amidships about where the refrig/freezer drawers are, the last is the roving pump which has a length of hose attached.  The last two are located under the sole amidships.

You lift up the floorboard at the end of the nav station.  Its the same general area as the lever which controls which fuel tank you are on and its where the roving bilge pump hose is stored.

The standard install on my boat was a 1000GPH pump in the main bilge and an 800GPH pump in the mast bilge.  Both are undersized in my opinion.   I moved the main bilge pump to the mast bilge and replaced the main bilge pump with a new RULE 2500GPH pump.     Much higher capacity and I kept the 800GPH as a spare.   Bilge water positively rockets out the stern now.. :-)

The roving bilge pump was initially something we thought a "novelty" but has become more and more useful over time.    The 575 has fairly flat bilges and in some cases its better (like when you are cleaning a compartment) to use the hose to drain it rather than let it flow all the way thru the boat to the main bilge.

FWIW




Edited by Black Diamond - 27 May 2021 at 00:10
Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI
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Arcadia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Arcadia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 02:59
I’m not sure about the 575 but would think the arrangement is the same as the 588. I have a 4th pump in the bow locker under the floor. It pumps via a hose into the anchor chain compartment.  If you’re not sure, look for the hose. It enters the chain compartment through the forward most bulkhead. It operates with a float switch and a manual override at the nav station.
Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY
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Wayne's World View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wayne's World Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2021 at 04:02
On our 575 #65 we have the system as described by Rick from Black Diamond above except there is also a manual bilge pump which sucks from the  center compartment with the pump handle at the stern starboard aft combing. Like Rick we replace the standard bilge pump with a large volume heavy duty 12V pump of 144 ltr/min capacity(2300 US gal/hr). We kept the small original as a spare for the mast base pump and have a spare of the 144 ltr/min pump as well. The "roving pump" has proven to be a great maintenance asset. To suck the water out from between the liner and the hull I fitted a 18mm hose to the end of the roving pump hose and insert it through the holes on either side of the bilge area where the roving pump is fitted amidships. With this small diameter hose you can access the space between the liner and hull. On our 575 there is not a bilge pump fitted to the forepeak and first off filled a manual pump but in the end fitted a 12V bilge pump for this space. I am also considering fitting bilge alarms to various spaces but for now regularly check spaces for water. I am also thinking of making up a roving bilge pump of a high capacity (144 ltr/min size and type) to be able to drop into a void if we have a major flood. The current roving unit although a great idea is a relatively low volume pump at 44 ltrs/min. Because we are 24/7/365 liveaboards we are always here to check bilges.  We recently had a friend with a 485 Oyster who had his sounder transducer snap off which resulted in a 38mm gushing fountain in his bilge which remained undiscovered until the floor boards started floating. He saved the boat but was hampered by bad placement of batteries (below the sole) and the inability to start the engine or generator - because all the batteries were underwater and when he got power up his bilge pumping was inadequate to handle the inflow. The standard 575 design has the house battery bank above the cabin sole which is good and the engine start battery high in the engine compartment which is also good. However the generator starts from the house bank which could be a problem during flooding so I have fitted a changeover switch so the generator can start from the engine start battery. Food for thought.
Remember the saying - keep the water on the outside.  
Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Pacific until the end of 2026.
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