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Convert to Dyneema backstay

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shaukaas View Drop Down
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    Posted: 08 March 2011 at 12:21
One of this seasons upgrade plans for my 320 is to replace the 5mm backstay with a Dyneema version. However, as always, my head is full of questions:

1. Is a 6mm "single braided" Dyneema similar to 5mm wire?

2. How much should the involved block in my aft-stay arrangement be able to withstand? (What size of block should I aim for?)

3. Has anyone carried out a similar upgrade?


S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171

LG3600 - NOR13510


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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 12:48
Personally I would not replace any wire in the standing rigging to Dynamee.
On yachts with Runners (Danish word is Bagstag) and Backstag, one can switch the runners to Dynamee, but it is not always without problems. Some X-99 sailors have tried to switch to Dynamee but walked away from it again.
I think a wire will be more weather-resistant long-term and the weight saving will not be in proportion to the risk of losing the mast because the dynamee had become tired.

But if You go ahead replacing, it would be interesting to hear your experience.
Greetings
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Raptor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raptor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 14:05

stian,

1. yes. 6mm is sufficient.
2. use e.g. ronstan orbit halyard block series 75.
3. plan to do the same and have already bought all the blocks involved in order to end up at 32:1 purchase.
 
good luck.
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shaukaas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shaukaas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 15:55
Great news, Raptor!

What part numbers did you buy? Any pictures or drawings (sketches?) on your (planned?) installation?

I'll do the conversion, but won't throw away my old steely' Dan backstay - as it may come in handy one day. My boat is de-rigged every winter anyways, so I will have plenty of opportunities to inspect the state of the rope. I this conversion doesn't work as planned, I'll simply switch back next season...
S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171

LG3600 - NOR13510


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Raptor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raptor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 17:19
Stian,

You can make a really expensive one using only blocks from Ronstan or you can do like me go for the budget model by using Selden blocks. I only bought one block from Ronstan which is the huge one at the end of the backstay.

Simple drawing:


Nr. 1: Ronstan Orbit Halyard block art no. RF79108
Nr. 2: Selden PBB50 Single block art. no. 405-001-01R
Nr. 3: Selden PBB50 Single block art. no. 405-001-01R
Nr. 4: Selden PBB50 Tripleblock art. no. 405-001-07R
Nr. 5: Selden PBB50 Trippleblock with becket and cam art. no. 405-001-10R

The purchase gained is maybe a little more than initially intended.

Sorry for the sketch showing a horizontal rather than in a portrait layout.
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shaukaas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shaukaas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 17:41
Originally posted by Raptor Raptor wrote:

Stian,
Nr. 1: Ronstan Orbit Halyard block art no. RF79108

Thanks for the info!

But... Veil inkl mva : 3 100,00 ???
S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171

LG3600 - NOR13510


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Raptor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raptor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 18:12
I have got the art. no. wrong.

Think both of these are sufficient:
RF74108 nok 912.-
RF64108 nok 681.-

I bought the last and cheapest one.
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Rubato View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rubato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 19:40
Consider adding a cover to the line for protection from UV, etc. Have you considered PBO?
 
I have a PBO backstay on my 400 and it has a black covering to protect it. Also, there are special fittings on the end to tie in properly with the rigging. I suggest you talk to a professional rigger about this if you haven't already.
 
I won't get into why I did this but I wouldn't necessarily do it it again. I'm wondering what your motivation is?
 
Steve
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shaukaas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shaukaas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 22:12
I will indeed talk to a professional rigger regarding these details, and have also been talking to him at several occasions and mentioned this.

From previous, and current, work-experience - I can tell that what most professionals charge you $100-150 an hour (Norwegian prices, though) - can easily be done yourself absolutely for free, and also provide me with some extra knowledge. As my current position offers a 1/1 schedule - I've got plenty off spare-time to "take from" for my little boat project, in addition to being my number 1 interest...

Compared to the work them "professionals" have performed on other Hanse's in my area, including my own, I'm 100% sure that what I've done on my boat myself holds an equal standard, or even better. Because I've got the time, the keen interest - and spends hours of investigation and reading before doing any major un-reversible change - I'm confident not "ruining" the sloop to a piece of unrecognizable white plastic. Tongue

Certainly forums like e.g. Myhanse.com provides the "base" of tips and ideas, supported by different articles and documents on the web. So far this has proven to be "far beyond" good - and in the rare cases where I've been discussing technical details with them pro's - I've been able to prove them wrong. But one day, this may prove to be wrong...

My motivation(s) for fitting a Dyneema backstay are, in prioritized order:

1. Get the backstay off my mainsail when tacking/jibbing. (And also to be prepared for my new main, when I've got them $ to invest in high-tech clothing...)

2. Get a better trim of my 9/10 rig. (Which leads us into my no 3.)

3. Better "ratio". (Today I would have to use the ST'er to tighten it up.)

4. Have a non-stretchable sheet for adjusting the backstay; today's cheap polyester bungee cord, probably cost me 1/10th of a secound for every 100 nautical mail I race... Wink

5. Get a "flying lead" 450MHz antenna implemented for my CDMA-based   onboard Ice.net network connection.

6. The looks. Cool
S/Y Nadun - Hanse 320#171

LG3600 - NOR13510


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Raptor View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Raptor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 March 2011 at 22:40
I haven't gone through the motions of dismantling my rig yet. When I finally do that i will fix a batten at the top of the mast with a small loop at the end and let the backstay run through the loop. This will lift the backstay away from the main when e.g., sailing in little wind. I had a similar solution on my Albin Express.

Selden got an off the shelf piece but not ready installable on my Sparcraft rig.
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