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Grey water pump |
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Fendant
Admiral Joined: 03 November 2012 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 1617 |
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Same here, my shower pump goes directly into the grey water tank. All other drains go into a collector box with a float switched pump ( Sahara 5000 ) before being pumped into the grey water tank. I carry 2 spare pumps. The power supply now has a quick connector with a female plug. All spares have the corresponding male one. Changing the pump takes less than 2 mins.
BTW as part of boat maintenance after launching in spring the pump and the collector are cleaned for the season. Nevertheless at least one pump failure in the season, although we avoid bread crumbs or alike to go down the drain .
Edited by Fendant - 05 February 2021 at 00:54 |
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Frank
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marcopone
Commander Joined: 24 April 2013 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 137 |
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This collector box is not present on my H575.
Everything goes directly in the grey water tank other outside. It seems a further step that might create new problems.
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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Hi to all,
New gray water pump problem. It doesn't start, and we thought it's the switch. We replaced it twice, with the same switch type that was working and it still doesn't work. The pump works when it's activated bypassing the switch. Anybody that has a suggestion to understand the magic? I suspect that the problem is because the switch is active, and there is a digital circuit to supply. 8mA have to flow through the switch at 12V to have a voltage drop capable of feeding the electric circuit... Any ideas? This is the precise switch I am using, it worked for more than a year before stopping. I repeat that I had tested three switches, so it's not a faulty switch... Edited by Pzucchel - 19 February 2022 at 15:13 |
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Hanse588#55
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Black Diamond
Vice Admiral Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 923 |
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I understand you have done quite a bit of diagnosis on this already. I've not seen that switch brand, so I can't comment. I carry 2 spares of both pumps and switches on the boast. In fact, I've put a quick-connect in for both bow and stern grey water pumps to facilitate changes. Inevitably, they will fail while my wife is in the shower and I will get a "Rick....the shower is filling up with water!". My checklist:
I've looked at different pumps but it seemed easier to just stock some spares. I have these and the fresh water pump spares and bilge pump spares always on the boat. I replaced the original switches with these. They work fine and are relatively cheap. Edited by Black Diamond - 19 February 2022 at 16:41 |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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The magic kept disclosing the secrets of physics... Suddenly, we threw pasta water in the sink and the sensor worked for a while... Then it stopped again. We recollected then that the problem appeared when the main tank ran out of our watermaker water (a shower tap not perfectly closed) and we had refilled the tank in point a pitre, Guadeloupe... So the experiment : we put some salt into the gray water box, and it finally worked again!
Eureka...
These sensors are obviously based on conductivity, and some tap water may be very low in salt...lower conductivity, and so the gray water pump will not be triggered. Conclusion :use mainly your watermaker water, put salt in the dishwasher, bath in the sea before your shower, or eat pasta every day! |
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Hanse588#55
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marcopone
Commander Joined: 24 April 2013 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 137 |
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this issue never happened to me
I am still using the whale inductive sensor type, same as installed from Hanse. I have to change about one sensor every year, mostly on the fore grey water tank. I think your sensor type is not enough sensitive. Marco |
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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Hi Marco, I agree that the original whale sensor is less sensitive to the water conductivity. I have it in the front shower, and it keeps working, differently from the one above. Just one correction :these sensors are not inductive and not capacitive : they are resistive. They don't measure the variation of magnetic field in the water, very ineffective, not the change of capacity (like those for black waters). They measure the change of resistance between air and water. Water has less resistance than air, and sea water has less resistance than watermaker water, and watermaker water has less resistance than air.
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Hanse588#55
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marcopone
Commander Joined: 24 April 2013 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 137 |
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Hi Pzucchel,
you are right, it is not an inductive sensor. but it is not either working on the resistance. it does check the conductivity. air has a very low conductivity, while salt water has a good electric transmission capacity distilled water has no conductivity, theoretically, if your watermaker is working very good, the water produced could be like distilled water and the sensor might not work properly. this of course assuming that you are discharging to the grey water tank pure water, normally it is not the case as you are using water to wash or rinse something. as a matter of fact this issue never happened to me, my water maker is a Schenker 100 lt/h
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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I have a schenker too. Sodium chloride in these watermakers is about 350 mg/l, just below the maximum limit of 500 mg/l admitted for drinkable water. Tap water tends to be lower in sodium in most harbors for general health considerations... Concerning conductivity or resistivity, it's the same thing. Conductivity =1/resistivity, so we're saying the same thing. I am a physicist 😁...
Edited by Pzucchel - 21 February 2022 at 12:24 |
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Hanse588#55
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