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Code 0 Halyard Rigging |
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Gypsy
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 01 January 2019 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: 18 February 2022 at 09:13 |
I own a Hanse 370 2008 model. I sail mostly single handed with the 43sqm main and the
23sqm self-tacking jib, generally in Sydney Harbour waters which are
protected but can be gusty and busy. For light winds I have a code 0
which is on a furler and pushed out from the bow by the
prodder/bowsprit of about 40cms.
I find it difficult to furl the code 0 due to the head of the sail chaffing on the jib top swivel and therefore the furl does not start smoothly at the top so it ends up un-even and quite taught. I have experimented with different heights of the sail by adjusting the tack strop length but I have not found a ‘sweet spot’ to allow smooth furling. Doing it on my own means I don’t have equal control over the furler and releasing the sheet so that, no doubt exacerbates the problem. See the photo of the head of the code 0 and the head of the jib. The halyard of the code 0 comes from the masthead through a guide to a guide eye just above the forestay fitting so as the load is near to the location of the shrouds. The mast is tapered from the shrouds to the cap over approx 1m. See photo of the top of the mast. It seems my furling friction could be reduced by having the halyard exit the top guide rather than taken down to the second eye, this would allow separation of the code 0 from the jib. Can any 370 owners tell me if it is normal to use the top exit guide for a downwind sail such as the code 0 or an assymetric spinaker? I notice the top guide is shaped so as to allow the use of a halyard, not just a guide to the lower eye.
All ideas welcome. Edited by Gypsy - 18 February 2022 at 09:24 |
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415 Singapore
Vice Admiral Joined: 23 September 2013 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 826 |
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Hi, we have a tapering Selden mast on our 415 and the spinnaker / code 0 halyard goes through a guide eye, but it well above the forestay. It seems strange that your mast has two guides where one would be sufficient. Top one looks quite high, bottom one is too close to the forestay.
Maybe check with the mast manufacturer? But I would guess ours is about 30cm above the forestay. Good luck Paul
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Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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iemand
Admiral Joined: 13 February 2004 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 1082 |
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in the rigging drawings from Selden there is a fixed meassure of the maximum hight of the code 0 halyard.
The forestay hight is 14680mm and the Code 0 max height is 15305mm (625mm above forestay height) I put a fairlead on that hight and went up through a double halyared sheave where I directly fly my Spinnaker. you may not go higher with the Code 0 ! I am now considering a 2:1 for my Code 0 halyard since the loads are very high.
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Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007
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Gypsy
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 01 January 2019 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Thks for your reply (and Singapore). My mast is not a Seldon, it is Sparcraft (I think) so it will be similar but not identical. Even so, your info that the Seldon expects the Code 0 to be 625mm above the forestay would be very close to the top fairlead on my mast. That is a good clue for me. On a more general 'sails & rigging' forum I have had many answers, some from Hanse owners, others with similar fractional rigs. The consensus seems to be it will be safe to use the top fairlead, and given its shape it looks like it is expecting a spi or C0 halyard to exit, but I should be sure to have the backstay on tension and watch the mast for sideways movement if the wind is closer to a broad reach. I'll try this. Other interesting comments suggest that the second fairlead is really a ring for a block to carry the line, so it would give some separation if used....why didn't my sailmaker notice that...or me? Another good suggestion is to add a lowfriction ring with a 10-20cm strop to the 2nd ring/fairlead to allow separation. It is so good to get the information and suggestions through users. Thankyou.
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Hi Gypsy
Perhaps I later today can measure the distance from the eye at the forestay and up to the upper eye. I would already say that it is more than 700mm... I also got a Code0 last year, but I have not had the opportunity to fly it. I only have one spinaker haleyard, so I am aiming for at setup that will allow the use of the Genaker or Code0. But because I have not tried the Code0 yet, I don't know if this current setup I am using for the Gennaker (Asymmetric Spinaker) will work. I use a blok to give more clearance and also to lower the wear and tear of the line. I almost lost the old haleyard! This is my current setup: Perhaps I should install the Sparcraft Gennaker Block some 20 cm above the forestay? This would also give more height/room for the Code0 because the furler is rubbing against the 15kg Rocna Anchor. The S1630-S2100 are the newer Sparcraft Mast profiles, and the Hanse 370 got the older F460. When comparing the old and the new profiles, it shows that this block will fit even larger boats. (I have inserted the new profiles into the old sheet...) Sparcraft 48011415080 is the same block (from the old catalog) and is just in ø80, so that would be a better fit. /H8jer Edited by H8jer - 20 February 2022 at 17:25 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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415 Singapore
Vice Admiral Joined: 23 September 2013 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 826 |
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Hi, I am not sure that a low friction ring on a strop is a good idea, unless there is always tension on the spinnaker halyard the whole lot can drop down onto the jib and jam it as you furl it. I think the block shown in the last post looks a safer bet!
All the best Paul
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Paul - Night Train - 415 #136
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Hi again
I guess February is main season in Sidney? Perhaps a quick fix would be to try and see I my current setup can fix your issue. This fix can be done if you find a hero that agrees to be hoisted up the mast... Edited by H8jer - 19 February 2022 at 10:38 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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Gypsy
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 01 January 2019 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Hello all my helpful advisors. I moved the halyard to pass through the top fairlead only. Furling is smooth and easy! Success. The sail also sits parallel to the jib too. I will ensure backstay tension is on and observe the effects on the mast when in use. I doubt there will be anything visible during my use single handed...maybe if I invite the ‘cowboys’ on board on a heavy day it will be a different story. Anyway, there is clearly an option to put a low-friction ring on a strop from the lower fairlead to achieve a similar result if I am concerned about the mast stresses. I have dropped the tack down about 25cms too. Still experimenting to avoid tangling with jib furler or anchor. Thanks to all who took time to comment and assist my problem solving.
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Dogscout
Captain Joined: 10 July 2017 Location: Wandering About Status: Offline Points: 161 |
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Not to rain on the parade. I have been looking at buying a Asymmetrical on a furler for my 2008 430 with the Sparcraft mast. I was told by someone who I consider to be VERY knowledgeable of this that the thimbles on the mast are placed for a Code 0 halyard to be run near the stays and that an Asym should be run nearer the top of the mast. Reason: The code 0 pulls/loads to the side and the Asym pulls forward. I have 2 spare halyards and run one at the upper thimble and one at the lower, but right now they are not used. Still shopping.
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Adventure awaits
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Gypsy
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 01 January 2019 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Tks Dogscout. I take your point about the loading. My use of the C0 is more for downwind. I have an assym but don't keep in on the boat since I am mostly shorthanded. I considered buying a small furling assy but decided to give the C0 a try as it gave me a wider range with only 3 sails, 2 of them furling. That said, I am in experimental mode now that I have learnt more on the subject. I can still easily add a block or ring to the take off point which I previously used as a fairlead if I feel I need to. Rgds Ray
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