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Thru hulls and ball valves |
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Gale Force
Captain Joined: 26 June 2018 Location: Sri Lanka Status: Offline Points: 278 |
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Posted: 12 August 2022 at 07:09 |
I am hauling out in a few weeks time and am considering changing thru hulls and valves
My boat is a 2014 and has the white non metal thru hulls with the brass /bronze ball valves.My plan is to go with Tru Design with collars. If I go this route do I need to change the white thru hulls as well? Can any one tell me the material of the white through hulls.Are they all one size? Would be keen to hear from any of you who have done this conversion before. Best regards to all Duncan
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Dogscout
Captain Joined: 10 July 2017 Location: Wandering About Status: Offline Points: 161 |
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I've not done the conversion, but just recently changed all the thru hulls and seacocks on my 2008 430e to TruDesign. I had to trim all of the thru hulls to length and in most cases I did not use a collar because of clearance and went to a 90 before the valve.
So in your case. You'll need to know the existing thread size and have sufficient length on the thru hull. And the internal nut would have to fit under the collar too.
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Adventure awaits
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Arcadia
Rear Admiral Joined: 27 November 2017 Location: Sag Harbor, USA Status: Offline Points: 656 |
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Hanse used Trudesign thru hulls with metal ball valves on my 2018 588.
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Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588 Sag Harbor, NY |
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Axel
Commander Joined: 08 May 2016 Location: Ugljan/Croatia Status: Offline Points: 85 |
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The white thru hulls are Tru Design!
I wonder why Hanse did now use also the valves of tru design. I am going to change the valves of my 2016 385. Axel
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Hanse 385 #434 Nyanga 2
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Pzucchel
Commadore Joined: 13 March 2020 Location: floating Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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Same with me, 2017. But how do we know that the white seacocks are trudesign? I didn't see any label anywhere.
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Hanse588#55
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Gale Force
Captain Joined: 26 June 2018 Location: Sri Lanka Status: Offline Points: 278 |
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I was wondering the same thing and would I be able to just screw the new Trudesign seacocks onto the white thru hulls
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Captain Cook
Admiral Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1009 |
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Axel wrote:
"The white thru hulls are Tru Design! I wonder why Hanse did now use also the valves of tru design. I am going to change the valves of my 2016 385." It is rather obvious, the Trudesign valves cost 5 times as much as the cheap kitchen-brass valves which Hanse continue to put in our boats. Look at: -and you can see how your ball-valves look like after 8-10 years. |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Black Diamond
Vice Admiral Joined: 24 October 2015 Location: Newport, RI, US Status: Offline Points: 923 |
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You will find people equally vocal on both bronze and TruDesign. In my opinion, there are three issues you want to solve: 1. The degradation of the plastic thru-hull. The manual and Hanse indicate you need to replace them every 5 years. To me this is not as serious as the next issue. 2. The strength issue when putting a lot of torque on the ball valve. CE says that it needs to take 600lbs of torque before breaking the combination of thru-hull and ball valve. Hanse says the combination is CE certified, therefore it is supposed to be OK. To me, however, I've put a lot less than 600lbs of force and felt like I was about to snap it in cold, fall, weather and I'd rather not take the chance. To me, this is because there is no wide base to spread the load. Its a narrow connection. 3. The raw water strainer for the AC unit (at least on my boat) screws directly on top of the ball valve and this is one you open and close all the time. Its a pain to get to and, again, I worry about it snapping at the wrong time. If you still have the original ball valve/thru-hull combination, I strongly suggest that you carry wooden plugs in case something happens and you need to deal with the hole. The problem is NOT Tru-Design, its the connection of the two pieces. In my case I replaced them all with traditional groco ball valves and moved/redesigned the AC thru-hull. See pictures. The TruDesign works well, and does not have the bonding problem. Its a stronger set-up than the factory implementation because it has the wide base/collar set-up. Either can work just as well in my opinion. Rick
Edited by Black Diamond - 15 August 2022 at 10:56 |
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Rick
S/V Black Diamond Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161 Newport, RI |
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kipwrite
Commadore Joined: 14 October 2015 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 408 |
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Duncan,
I'm doing the same project in a few weeks on my 2016 505, all the underwater seacocks and the thru-hulls will be replaced with Groco. I think you'll find that when you attempt to unscrew the seacock you may well unseat the thru hull, so be prepared to replace them as well. Others on the forum have reported success preserving the true design thru hulls, so your results may vary. Let us know how you make out. Agree with Rick on the AC sea cock - it is a flimsy design. On my boat it was not bonded, and the sea cock and manifold was suspect after just a few seasons, the sea cock replaced by a Groco unit, the manifold rebuilt, and everything properly bonded. Harvey
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Kipwrite
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boomjack
Captain Joined: 24 August 2014 Location: switzerland Status: Offline Points: 173 |
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I ask the shipyard to replace all seacocks and thru hulls 3 years ago on my 2014 575 by truedesign.
This season i had a rather significant leak on the rear right toilet seacock and realized that this one had not been replaced by a truedesign .... I'm very interested about the air conditionning manifold change, since I did not bring any upgrade on this particular one and am a bit concerned about his condition. Any idea? Thanks!
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