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High Time
Vice Admiral Joined: 04 September 2012 Location: Portsmouth UK Status: Offline Points: 798 |
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I have a couple of observations/suggestions from the posts above.
Samuel - firstly, as already suggested, your 'charge' reading when everything is turned off could well be the calibration for the zero point on the battery monitor. This should be adjustable. I suggest you first check what the actual current is with a multimeter. Disconnect the battery cable (doesn't matter which polarity), put the multimeter between the disconnected cable and the battery terminal and turn the multimeter onto the highest current setting (probably 10A). Assuming there is only a very small (or zero) reading, gradually reduce the multimeter setting to it's lowest current value (100 micro A maybe) to see what is the actual current flowing. It should be zero. If it is, then recalibrate your battery monitor to read zero (you'll need to read the manual to do this). If the multimeter is not reading zero (after leaving the batteries to stabilise for an hour or so) then you need to investigate why. For instance if the batteries are equalising (and the 1-2-Both switch is off) you need to understand what is the connection between the batteries (through the charger maybe?). Regarding the 6mm connection, presumably it is quite short so the volts drop (and hence the watts (heat) dissipated) will be small, even at high loads. Bob and Coral - is your shunt really a coil? For DC the shunt is usually an accurately known low resistance. The battery monitor then measures the small (mV) drop across the shunt and displays it as current (Ohms Law I=V/R). A coil around a wire is usually used for measuring AC current.
Edited by High Time - 28 June 2018 at 12:34 |
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Roger
High Time (415 #038) |
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Joey D
Commander Joined: 27 June 2018 Location: Florida Status: Offline Points: 82 |
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Hi Frank,
Thanks much for the information. I will work on it this weekend and see if I can get it to work. If not, I will reach back out to you for the wiring scheme. Regardless I'm going to enjoy sailing this weekend and rely on my Amp meter to insure I have service battery power. Joey How do I obtain your PM address? jdunne33@gmail.com
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D0bbies
Captain Joined: 05 August 2014 Location: Falmouth, UK Status: Offline Points: 247 |
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I fitted a Victron battery monitor that I've been pleased with so far, but like Samuel mine also shows a positive (+1.20 amp) reading when everything is switched off. In the meantime I've taken note of what Roger (High Time) has posted and will firstly try calibration and then shunt polarity. Albeit my shunt appears to be correctly positioned in accordance to the circuit diagram below: Bob
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2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.
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Ploogman
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 22 October 2019 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Hi Bob, I have just bought a 2006 Hanse 315 and was thinking of the same setup as you described as I have the standard 1, 2 or both switch. Can you share some photos and the electrical drawings?
Paul
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D0bbies
Captain Joined: 05 August 2014 Location: Falmouth, UK Status: Offline Points: 247 |
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Hi Paul, There are two "Bob's" on this post, so could you "Quote" the specific post you are refering to? Bob
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2005 312, Tiller, Engine 2GM20, SD20 Saildrive. Facnor SD 130 Furler.
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Ploogman
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 22 October 2019 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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bob & coral, but just noticed his last logged activity on this site dates back to August 2010. I was thinking about it and his setup he descibed in his june 2010 post should be fairly easy to implement.
l should install a separate starter battery close to the engine in the aft cabin, use the two dual purpose batteries I already have behind the standard 1, 2 or both switch as a dedicated house bank and for charging with the engine connect a smart charge switch between the two battery banks. Paul
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