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Gennaker sheets

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Windsurfer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Windsurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 January 2013 at 17:40
Mine bent a little so I stopped using it...I think it depends on how well the eye  was welded to the push pit...the cleat is much stronger anyway and is a little further at the back which is best for trimming the genny...
Hanse 320 #079
White hull, tiller, short keel and rudder, standard North sails, Sparcraft rig
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Henrik84 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Henrik84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2013 at 10:02
Hi and thanks for all answers.
I am now going to fit two Wichard Padeyes just infront of the pushpit.
I will fit a stainless steel plate underneath the padeye because i don´t think just the hull will hold that kind of force.

I think this is the best looking way to do this. What do you think?
 
/Henrik
S/Y LaRey
Hanse 320 #430
Gothenburg, Sweden
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Windsurfer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Windsurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2013 at 10:29
Yes it is, but too much work and not the easiest access...
Hanse 320 #079
White hull, tiller, short keel and rudder, standard North sails, Sparcraft rig
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Windsurfer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Windsurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2013 at 20:16
http://myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1000&PN=2&title=spinnaker-gennaker-blocks

Have just found a thread where they discuss the options and there's a picture where Johan shows a simillar solution like I mentioned earlier....it's really simple and you don't have to drill anything....maybe you give it a try and then if you don't like it for whatever reason will go for some other solution??
Hanse 320 #079
White hull, tiller, short keel and rudder, standard North sails, Sparcraft rig
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samuel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2013 at 18:27
Originally posted by White Lines White Lines wrote:

We also use the eye on the base of the push pit without any sign of stress in the fitting. When close to the wind in 12-14 knots apparant the loads necessitate the use of the winch, but no problems with the fitting.



Not quite sire how your eyes are formed but are you aware that the pushpit is only held by 6mm stud welded to the bottom of the upright
It would not take much to shear this off
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote samuel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2013 at 18:31
Originally posted by Henrik84 Henrik84 wrote:



Thanks Jřvani.
Bur I need to know how to attached the block olden at the stern.
I have tryed Pfeiffers Block holder that you attached to the footrail but it will start to slide forward when the force get higher.

I have seen on other boats that they have Pad Eyes skrewed into the deck, but will this work? Is there any metal plat under?

//Henrik

To stop the attachment slipping put a small bolt through the hole just forward of the fitting. As it slides forward it hits the bolt& cannot slip anymore. The bolt does not need to be very big so it will not show
Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Henrik84 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Henrik84 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2013 at 19:18
Originally posted by Windsurfer Windsurfer wrote:

Yes it is, but too much work and not the easiest access...
It is not much work, Drill two holes, put sika in the hols and round the bolts, fit the bolts and tighten he nuts.
 
I talked to the agen for spinlock in sweden (Liros ropes) and he told me that if I have Code 1 and the wind gets little stronger the force on the sheet could be around 2300kg.

Therefor I will do this right from the beginning and not use the pushpit or the mooring cleat.
I don´t think the mooring cleat are made for forces from that angel.

/Henrik
S/Y LaRey
Hanse 320 #430
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Windsurfer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Windsurfer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2013 at 19:45
The mooring cleat  will definitely hold the load of a Code 0....the boat weight is almost 6 tons....imagine it jumping on the mooring ropes in heavy breese....
By the way...did you install a permament bowsprit ??? 


Edited by Windsurfer - 13 January 2013 at 19:47
Hanse 320 #079
White hull, tiller, short keel and rudder, standard North sails, Sparcraft rig
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MisterM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MisterM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 January 2013 at 21:47
We always used the mooring cleats, without blocks; just guide the sheet through the opening of the cleat; relatively low friction, perfect angle for the sale and for the winches.
Cheap, efficient and effective, and should indeed be the strongest part of the whole cockpit and pushpit!
 
Best regards, Machiel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote André Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 January 2013 at 21:23
To run our gennaker I made two small slings out of 6 mm line material and pull these through the clamp holes and mount a Lewmar block on it. Bit same as pulling a sheet directly through the cleat hole but less friction. And indeed perfect angle to the winches on the coach roof, I only have the two standard Lewmar ST40's.
If the slings fail (or the cleat...) it is definitely time to go back into the marina and enjoy some beers... Easy, effective and cheap. It cost me the two Lewmar blocks at Euro 25 each + about 60 cm line. It is still on my To Do list to change to some nice Dyneema slings....
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