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Fridge /compressor problems

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Angelina View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Angelina Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Fridge /compressor problems
    Posted: 09 October 2019 at 06:55
After a lightning strike the fridge does not cool.
A new controller has been installed. New coolant filled. The pump works, electrically all seems OK.
Somewhere the pressure disappears. No obvious leak.
I have a 400, built 2009, twin wheel type.
Very difficult to get to the system or replace.
I think the instalation is very similar on all types.

Anyone have an idea, or taken the hole fridge out before?
Any hint is welcome.
Thank you
Gordon
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 October 2019 at 09:32
First read this post:

As you can see, the Isotherm unit is built into the pantry, and Hanse has used a lot of glue to assemble the furniture.
With the search function you can find a post where the evaporator  and compressor has been renewed. Changing the entire Isotherm unit is quite a job, since the pantry is assembled around the unit.

you can find instructions to read out the error codes from the compressor. Just mount two cables with a bulb on the compressor. Then start the system and watch the bulb. No blinks = OK. One or more blinks = Fault.

As you can see in the first link, I have made an inspection hole in the plywood to the left of the oven. You may be able to work on the compressor with the aid of a mirror, but my solution is less frustrating.
If  you search fridge/isotherm/cooling e.g you will find hundreds of hits.

(You can find advices like this: " I put a LED through the wood so I could check the fault-codes.
It is connected to the little "+" and "D" beside the compressor.
There are multiple pages on the net with explanation of error- finding the Danfoss DB35.)


Edited by Captain Cook - 09 October 2019 at 09:53
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M802(SSB)
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Nigel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nigel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2020 at 05:53
I also have a 400e built in 2009, I need to replace the Isotherm according to the local technician...AAAAGH! 
The boat lives in tropical Western Australia and I think the lack of ventilation of the compressor didn't help.
Can I get to the compressor via the front bunk? ... any help and photos would be appreciated.
Nigel Satchmo GBYC 241
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2020 at 20:20
The search function can help you.
There is a subject somewhere about a member placing a  new compressor in front of the sink.
If you read the link in my post just over yours, you will see, that it is almost impossible to dismount the whole Isotherm unit. As you can see, I have made a big hole beside the oven for access to the compressor.
Read also:
https://www.myhanse.com/search_results_posts.asp?SearchID=20200228201542&KW=R134a (I searched "Isotherm coolant R134a").
- and there are a lot more subjects to find with the search function.
If you read uploads/729/!BD35.pdf , you can check, if it is necessary to change the compressor, or if  it just need a topping up with R134a.
To sum it up: Replacing the whole isotherm unit is expensive and NOT easy. All the overly glued wood components will have to be taken apart without damaging them, because replacements will be of a different colour.
Changing the Danfoss compressor and the evaporator is quite easy if you place the compressor in front of the sink somewhere. In a tropic climate one should consider a water-cooled compressor.




Edited by Captain Cook - 28 February 2020 at 20:51
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M802(SSB)
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Satchmo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Satchmo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 February 2020 at 23:38
The issue is that the plate ,not necessarily the compressor needs replacing after a “helper” punctured the white plate while trying to defrost the fridge quicker using a screwdriver! 
I can’t see why I can’t just fit another plate but the local tech says there’s safety compliance issues when he has to test and re-gas.i have removed the access hole next to the oven but the connection is VERY difficult to get at . However there’s quite a large void if I go in from the front via a hole in the back of the seat where the table is.By the way I have since found out that when you by a compressor it has to have a “T” rating which stands for tropical... thanks for your help ANY suggestions appreciated 
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2020 at 10:51
Your system is already bleeding R134a to the surroundings, so a competent technician can dismount the evaporator, and solder new tubes and a new evaporator to the old tubes in the fridge.
The best solution (IMHO) is to remove the old system completely, and install an "Isotherm Compact SP 2051", which is water-cooled. The 2051model is with the small O-evaporator, which is the same size as you have now. There are bigger evaporators available, both O, I and L-shaped, but if you choose one of these, you have to choose another location in the fridge as well.
To get a place for icecubes you will need an O-shape.
The new Isotherm models are supplied with bayonet-couplings, so you can in fact install the system yourself. Talk to the local Isotherm-pusher.
Read the Isotherm sales-talk about the SP models, they are the right choice for warmer climates.
The photo shows the SP2051 package.
P.S. With a hole in the evaporator, the R134a is not a gas, but a liquid. Anyway R134a is still harmful under certain conditions (google it), and the tubes from the compressor should be blocked before removal.


Edited by Captain Cook - 01 March 2020 at 11:08
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M802(SSB)
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Nigel View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nigel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2020 at 11:25
Thank you Captain Cook 

I will do exactly as you say ... the issue is I have no Isotherm techs within 200miles so I have had to take advice where I can get it . I may have to sail the boat to the technician !
Where does the water come from? When I had my catamaran I had to circulate the drinking water.
I have decided to use a separate cooler as a freezer - my solar panels should cope with this. 
I am also looking at the Watt'n'Sea hydrogenerator . 
I have been to the Isotherm website and may install a flat /curved plate around the internal box.
The REAL Issue is getting to the compressor . I think I can either 1.cut the wood that is hidden by the ovenand come in from the side  or 2.cut the bottom out of the icebox itself and access it directly from above - I will reseal with Sikkaflex over the top of epoxy. What do you think ? Thanks for your help.
I am doing the Darwin to Kupang Rally in 2021
http://www.sailindonesia.net/home/home.php which should really test the system. Cheers Nigel
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Captain Cook View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2020 at 18:31
Hi Nigel.
Try to visit Isotherm homepage, the system is explained there. The thing (in the photo) with holes in it is a thru-hull, you remove the thru-hull under the sink, and mount this instead, Need the boat on the hard then.
If you read my post:  https://www.myhanse.com/isotherm-coolant-r134a_topic11379_post95339.html?KW=R134a#95339, you will see my Engel MR040F-UI portable 40 liter Fridge/Freezer. There is also a test of the thing. The Engel is very popular in Australia, and can be used both as fridge and a freezer to -18 degrees celsius.

With regards to the old compressor, you can cut off the tubes inside the fridge, and seal the holes with a two-component putty, or leave enough tube protuding, so you can solder two small "hats" in the end. Then you could leave the old compressor in place, and forget about it.
Read the earlier posts here on myhanse about the subject.
I know that Angelina has mounted a new system, with the new compressor placed under the seats in front of the fridge.
Cheers Kjeld


Edited by Captain Cook - 02 March 2020 at 20:13
Freya Hanse400 #27 from 2006, 40HP Yanmar 3JH4E, Teak deck, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M802(SSB)
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