Seacock replacement

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Just replaced all the below the line seacocks with TruDesign.  All pretty easy.  The holding tank valves were originally 1 1/4" which was rather stupid given all the other fittings are 38mm.  These were upgraded to 1 1/2".  Holes in the hull only needed a small increase in size and this was done with a half round rasp and a dremal. 
A lot of boat yoga to replace the pipework. 
The only issue I found was removing and replacing the aft heads pipework as this is behind the sink cupboard and the securing tie tie wraps are very awkward to get at. Do this before disconnecting the pipe from the holding tank!  Also the entry from the heads needs the top cut out as this is bonded in place.  I used an oscillating tool and it worked well with a relatively, (but not my best work!), neat cut. Make sure you protect the surfaces with tape.  When replaced with a little sika the cut was invisible. 

Hope this is of some help for those doing the same job. 

Just for info this is the brass heads inlet valve cut in two.  2014 install date and is in good condition.  I could see no corrosion on the other valves or tails.

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Mike2145 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 278	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mike2145 Report Post Thanks(1) Quote Reply Topic: Seacock replacement Posted: 17 November 2023 at 11:07
	Just replaced all the below the line seacocks with TruDesign. All pretty easy. The holding tank valves were originally 1 1/4" which was rather stupid given all the other fittings are 38mm. These were upgraded to 1 1/2". Holes in the hull only needed a small increase in size and this was done with a half round rasp and a dremal. A lot of boat yoga to replace the pipework. The only issue I found was removing and replacing the aft heads pipework as this is behind the sink cupboard and the securing tie tie wraps are very awkward to get at. Do this before disconnecting the pipe from the holding tank! Also the entry from the heads needs the top cut out as this is bonded in place. I used an oscillating tool and it worked well with a relatively, (but not my best work!), neat cut. Make sure you protect the surfaces with tape. When replaced with a little sika the cut was invisible. Hope this is of some help for those doing the same job. Just for info this is the brass heads inlet valve cut in two. 2014 install date and is in good condition. I could see no corrosion on the other valves or tails.
	Cant take a joke, don't buy a boat.

Wild Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vice Admiral Joined: 18 March 2010 Location: Turkey-Greece Status: Offline Points: 937	Post Options Post Reply Quote Wild Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 November 2023 at 15:57
	Just to compare. This is how the original brass valves ,which Hanse fitted in the past, looks after +10 years in the Med salt an warm waters (if you are lucky) Of course You spare the costs if a cutting disc.
	Wild and Wet Belgium 545e#268

Mike2145 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Captain Joined: 18 October 2014 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 278	Post Options Post Reply Quote Mike2145 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 November 2023 at 16:23

	Cant take a joke, don't buy a boat.



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