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To trim the self-tacking headsail or not? |
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AdrianB 
Lieutenant Commander 
Joined: 24 April 2005 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 64 |
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 Topic: To trim the self-tacking headsail or not?Posted: 10 April 2007 at 13:32 |
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The standard North headsail has several eyes on the clew for attaching the sheet. I presume this is to allow the the foot and leech tension to be trimmed. We haven't moved the sheet from the factory default setting - because re-attaching it under way isn't as simple as moving Genoa cars.
I was curious to know if anyone uses anything other than the middle position, and if so why and when? Does trimming achieve anything significant on the self tacking headsail? We raced in a rally organised recently by our local Hanse dealer with over 20 other Hanse yachts - and looking at the publicity photos it seems that eveyone was racing with the "standard" trim. Adrian Barnes Cyndi Kate Edited by AdrianB - 10 April 2007 at 13:33 |
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Abstinenz
myHanse Moderator - Denmark 
Joined: 27 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 563 |
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Posted: 10 April 2007 at 15:03 |
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Hi,
You have to use the different eyes depending on weather conditions. In light wind you should choose the upper eyes and the lower eyes in strong winds. During a race you will probably have to change between several eyes. I'm trying to figure out how this is done in a smart way while sailing upwind.
I'll be back... /Steen Edited by Abstinenz - 10 April 2007 at 17:58 |
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Hanse 342#436
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Scorpio
Captain 
Joined: 15 August 2006 Status: Offline Points: 295 |
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Posted: 10 April 2007 at 17:23 |
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On my 342, I have changed the shackle on the block that attaches to the clew of the jib to be a snap shackle so that we can trim the self tacker in this way whilst racing. If it's a Lewmar block on the clew, there is a specific Lewmar part to do this conversion.
Haven't trimmed the self tacker in this way yet but I am planning to tie the clew off on the track using a sail tie or similar strop when making the change.
Ed
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Ed Essery
Scorpio GBR 9824T Hanse 342#465 - Solent Based |
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Johan Hackman
Admiral of the Fleet 
Joined: 24 August 2005 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 4361 |
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Posted: 10 April 2007 at 17:47 |
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I have tried a snap schackle but it opened when I least needed it, in a strong wind, so I removed it. I can't say that it made a huge difference, at least not with the standard sail, to be able to trim it that way.
Only my two cents' (öre) worth of wisdom. Johan |
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Scorpio
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Joined: 15 August 2006 Status: Offline Points: 295 |
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Posted: 10 April 2007 at 21:09 |
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Johan,
Interesting. A snap shackle shouldn't trip like that. I use the same sort as they use on race boats for spinnaker sheets. I've never had one trip accidentally.
Ed
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Ed Essery
Scorpio GBR 9824T Hanse 342#465 - Solent Based |
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Johan Hackman
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Joined: 24 August 2005 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 4361 |
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Posted: 10 April 2007 at 21:18 |
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I am sure it depends on what kind of shackle you use, and probably you can find one better than the one I used. It's just that I found that the shape of the top of the sail, which is the part you are trying to control, didn't change much by changing the hole.
Still my two "öres" since I would like to hear more about the experience of others. Johan |
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Brightside
Commadore 
Joined: 07 October 2003 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 378 |
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Posted: 15 April 2007 at 13:43 |
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Hi.
I also had a snap shackle open when we turned head to wind to furle in the self tacking jib in an F7. The jib flapped about so violently the clew board damaged the sail by making about 20 small scrapes in the sail fabric. On the my Lewmar snap shackle I have noticed that the pull ring can sit in two positions. First and the pin is inserted to its full depth. Second, the ring is at 90 degrees to the position 1, this causes the pin to be not fully inserted. I have looked at the Wichard snap shackle. They are engineered so the orinetation of the pull ring makes no difference to the depth of pin insertion and indeed the pin extends 2mm beyond the end of hole. Currently I do not use a snap shackle on the jib sheet but am looking at the Trigger Release shackles. WRT which hole to use on the clew board. I questioned Quantum sails about this when I ordered my new jib (the one that was damaged on it's first outing). In theory you should change position for different winds but in practice given the short sail it makes no real difference and it's difficult to do with the sail powered up. Regards Mike Edited by Brightside - 15 April 2007 at 13:44 |
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adrian_nmg2002
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Joined: 05 January 2011 Location: Romania Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: 04 July 2011 at 17:32 |
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Hi all, did u try to use a 140%genoa, i mean i can't use the cars for it, and i have no ideea what to do. Is a Hanse 540e.
Edited by adrian_nmg2002 - 04 July 2011 at 17:33 |
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770 |
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Posted: 17 July 2011 at 15:37 |
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Sorry to interfere with a 370 forum when I am only a 311 sailor but I suggest you do not have to adjust the clew when sailing
If you set the sheet to get the right set when , say, 10Knots of wind you will find that halliard tension will tighten or ease the leech. Firstly the actual hole to use is set by the shape of the sail, not how others set theirs.
To see what I mean about halliard tension set the boat up with too much halliard tension when sailing to windward. Then gently ease tha halliard so there is virtually no tension & you will see the leech fall away as you do it.
Obviously you adjust halliard tension to wind strength to move the flow back & forward but if you have the correct clew position to start with then you should be OK.
Off the wind is a different thing alltogether. For that you need a pair of barber haulers ( actually downhauls may be the correct term as barber haulers are used to bring the clew to the centreline not downwards) clipped to the gunwale rail (if you have the metal ones with holes in it.)
If you do not want a pair permanently rigged get the cruising chute down haul & bring it back through a snap shackle then up to the jib clew. You have to swop from side to side but you are not normally tacking if you are sailing with the sheet free so it is not an issue. This saves having lots of ropes strewn all over the deck & you can use the halliard winch on the cabin top to tighten it.
However, if racing, a pair of downhauls are a must for the ST. Plus , of course you can just tighten one up when the sheet is hard in & you have a leech tensioner system
Finally you have to be carefull about leech tension as constanly having too much causes the sail to " tube" & it will soon be ruined
I know some one will disagree-- but that is what life is all about!!!
Daydream Believer
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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