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32mike
Commadore
Joined: 26 March 2020 Location: FLorida, US Status: Offline Points: 453 |
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Posted: 09 January 2022 at 01:11 |
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Good to know there is/are viable solutions. We went out again yesterday and today and turned the water pump off and left the hot water tap open. Seemed to have worked.
I like the expansion tank idea. I’ll have to investigate that too. Still seems like the original installation is a bad design. Thanks for the help all.
Edited by 32mike - 09 January 2022 at 01:11 |
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Mike
S/V Dulces Sueños 458 #087 Tampa, FL |
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Jim Tinsdeall
Lieutenant
Joined: 23 November 2020 Location: Cornwall Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Posted: 09 January 2022 at 13:21 |
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Will take a photo of the expansion vessel next time I am on the boat later this week
Jim
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Jim Tinsdeall
Cornwall Hanse 540 Dominus |
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samuel
Admiral of the Fleet
Joined: 26 December 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 2770 |
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Posted: 09 January 2022 at 18:14 |
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Does not your size of yacht not have a vacuum valve in the exhaust line? That will dribble water into the bilge. Mine does & I collect it by placing the hose into a 5 litre can & emptying it when nearly full. Some days it fills quickly, other days nothing !! Of course yours may discharge over the side anyway. As for the water heater theory, I removed my safety valve 15 years ago & let the fawcet in the heads & sink drip a bit. Only a little bit. But as I sail SH I can always remember not to overtighten the tap. You could experiment next trip & see if it solves the issue. If not then you know to look elsewhere.
Edited by samuel - 09 January 2022 at 18:19 |
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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
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Martin&Rene
Vice Admiral
Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 967 |
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Posted: 09 January 2022 at 22:25 |
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Our approach to the PRV problem is that when starting the engine or switching the electric heater on, we switch off the water pump, run the hot water tap until it stops running (a few secs) and then shut it. This relaxes the piping system and allows it to absorb the initial heating up of the water. After the water has heated up, you can just switch the pump on and leave it on.
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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MrPotatoHead
Commander
Joined: 08 April 2021 Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Posted: 24 January 2022 at 22:37 |
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We had this same problem most of last season (brand new boat). It ended up being a loose fresh water tank inspection port. I figured it out after realizing it was worse right after I filled the tank. The brown in the water was just all the construction dust they don't bother to clean (really, would take 20 minutes to vac this stuff up in the factory).
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Hanse 458 #126
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Martin&Rene
Vice Admiral
Joined: 06 December 2009 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 967 |
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Posted: 25 January 2022 at 15:02 |
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If we fill the water tank up to overflowing through the air-vent, we then run some water off so that feed and vent pipes are empty and there is no added pressure on the inspection hatch.
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Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland
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MrPotatoHead
Commander
Joined: 08 April 2021 Status: Offline Points: 95 |
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Posted: 25 January 2022 at 15:57 |
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You don't understand what I'm saying. The boat came from the factory with the water tank inspection port loose. Every time we were on starboard tack water would drain from the tank, through the loose port, into the bilge. Adding a full turn to tighten the port completely solved the problem.
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Hanse 458 #126
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