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Rudder Stock Pitting

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Lumos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lumos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2022 at 11:46
Originally posted by Wild Wild wrote:

 The lower part is lead(plumb)NOT Aluminum or a Aluminum alloy for sure.
Sand-blasting taking off all paint, epoxy and filler till the bare metal surface.
For the lead part: with small sections 1/2sq m2 sanding and immediately (lead oxidatie in 1 min in contact with air) one layer 2comp epoxy (I used West System)and when still wet brush powerful in to the lead with steel brush ,section by section.I did side by side to handle this alone.
When the epoxy is still a little sticky fill up the holes with epoxy resin mixed with micro filler (west system 407 ) let it cure out 24 Hours. Sanding to a smooth surface, if not satisfied again.
After 24 hours :sanding and 6-8 layers epoxy “wet in wet”.(sticky) to avoid sanding after each layer,( cured epoxy get a Amine Blush and must removed”
Finally sanding again, epoxy primer and antifouling.
Takes a lot of time but easy DIY except the sandblasting.



Wild you are indeed wild! Clap you did a great job! and thanks a lot  for sharing your experience. I will post some pictures of my keel soon.
2011 Hanse 375
sailed over 4000 miles
Liveaboard since 2020
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Wild View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 November 2022 at 11:56
Thanks,
after 1 year in the water( Med Greece) already sanding and ready for antifouling.
Wild and Wet
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350Bob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 350Bob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 November 2022 at 11:28
Our 350 is equipped with the earth plate and cables running to the rudder (which I removed last year), keel bolts and I think the engine / sail drive. We are also suffering from corrosion on the keel, and this may be a stupid question but is it sensible/possible to replace the earth pad with an anode? I would think that it would still provide an adequate earth and maybe would protect the keel?

Any thoughts?

Bob
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Lumos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lumos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2022 at 08:28
Originally posted by 350Bob 350Bob wrote:

Our 350 is equipped with the earth plate and cables running to the rudder (which I removed last year), keel bolts and I think the engine / sail drive. We are also suffering from corrosion on the keel, and this may be a stupid question but is it sensible/possible to replace the earth pad with an anode? I would think that it would still provide an adequate earth and maybe would protect the keel?

Any thoughts?

Bob

Hi Bob, the earth plates are usually made of a noble metal like bronze. The electrical conductivity between the bronze and a sacrificial anode made of zinc is insignificantly different. Therefore, I do not see a problem in terms of electrical conductivity. You would have to replace the zinc anode from time to time. the bronze earth plate will last much longer.
2011 Hanse 375
sailed over 4000 miles
Liveaboard since 2020
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Lumos View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lumos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2022 at 09:58
Quick update:

I removed all the painting (8 layers of epoxy and a thick layer of fairing compound)
The lower part of the keel has no signs of corrosion. I assume it is lead.


the upper part of the keel (probably cast iron), on the other hand, has a few black spots where the paint came off very easily. That's probably what the other post described as very bad material. 


This is what I plan to do now after I talked to Hempel:

1. if possible, sandblasting the upper part of the keel. if not, I will have to do some more sanding to clean those black spots
2. clean the keel from dust (with acetone or alcohol).
3. apply one layer of Hempel light primer (should be applied very quickly after grinding to avoid oxidation).
4. apply epoxy filler (just to fill the lower spots)
5. sanding (to get a leveled surface)
6. I will repeat step 4 and 5 until I am happy with the result.
7. apply Hempel light primer (will see how many layers I need)
8. seal the joint between keel and hull (probably with Sikaflex 29..something) 
9. let the epoxy dry for at least one week.
10. light sanding
11. clean surface from dust
12. apply antifouling, in my case (Coppercaot)

I am going with Hempel because I used their products 4 years ago on the hull and on the Saildrive and they both look still very good.

If I don't get coppercoat on time I will have to do step 10 to 12 next year in April.

What do you think about my plan?
2011 Hanse 375
sailed over 4000 miles
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H8jer View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote H8jer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 November 2022 at 16:50
Hi 
You are in for a lot of work!
I would recommend sandblasting. And let the sandblaster company do the first epoxy layer.

From experiance it is very easy the grind through the layers so many repetitions are needed.
7. Perhaps you can be inspired by my work...::
Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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