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Rudder Stock Pitting |
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Lumos
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 03 January 2018 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Wild you are indeed wild! you did a great job! and thanks a lot for sharing your experience. I will post some pictures of my keel soon.
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2011 Hanse 375
sailed over 4000 miles Liveaboard since 2020 |
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Wild
Vice Admiral Joined: 18 March 2010 Location: Turkey-Greece Status: Offline Points: 784 |
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Thanks,
after 1 year in the water( Med Greece) already sanding and ready for antifouling.
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Wild and Wet
Belgium 545e#268 |
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350Bob
Captain Joined: 24 August 2015 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 184 |
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Our 350 is equipped with the earth plate and cables running to the rudder (which I removed last year), keel bolts and I think the engine / sail drive. We are also suffering from corrosion on the keel, and this may be a stupid question but is it sensible/possible to replace the earth pad with an anode? I would think that it would still provide an adequate earth and maybe would protect the keel?
Any thoughts? Bob
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H350 #205
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Lumos
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 03 January 2018 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Hi Bob, the earth plates are usually made of a noble metal like bronze. The electrical conductivity between the bronze and a sacrificial anode made of zinc is insignificantly different. Therefore, I do not see a problem in terms of electrical conductivity. You would have to replace the zinc anode from time to time. the bronze earth plate will last much longer.
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2011 Hanse 375
sailed over 4000 miles Liveaboard since 2020 |
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Lumos
Sub Lieutenant Joined: 03 January 2018 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 17 |
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Quick update:
I removed all the painting (8 layers of epoxy and a thick layer of fairing compound) The lower part of the keel has no signs of corrosion. I assume it is lead. the upper part of the keel (probably cast iron), on the other hand, has a few black spots where the paint came off very easily. That's probably what the other post described as very bad material. This is what I plan to do now after I talked to Hempel: 1. if possible, sandblasting the upper part of the keel. if not, I will have to do some more sanding to clean those black spots 2. clean the keel from dust (with acetone or alcohol). 3. apply one layer of Hempel light primer (should be applied very quickly after grinding to avoid oxidation). 4. apply epoxy filler (just to fill the lower spots) 5. sanding (to get a leveled surface) 6. I will repeat step 4 and 5 until I am happy with the result. 7. apply Hempel light primer (will see how many layers I need) 8. seal the joint between keel and hull (probably with Sikaflex 29..something) 9. let the epoxy dry for at least one week. 10. light sanding 11. clean surface from dust 12. apply antifouling, in my case (Coppercaot) I am going with Hempel because I used their products 4 years ago on the hull and on the Saildrive and they both look still very good. If I don't get coppercoat on time I will have to do step 10 to 12 next year in April. What do you think about my plan?
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2011 Hanse 375
sailed over 4000 miles Liveaboard since 2020 |
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H8jer
Admiral Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1347 |
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Hi
You are in for a lot of work! I would recommend sandblasting. And let the sandblaster company do the first epoxy layer. From experiance it is very easy the grind through the layers so many repetitions are needed. 7. Perhaps you can be inspired by my work...::
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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