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GHIM hydraulic transom switch

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Blue Swede View Drop Down
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    Posted: 04 March 2025 at 15:12
Hello! I accidently disconnected some wires when replacing the GHIM hydraulic transom switch. Can anyone help me figure out what each cable does? I guess it works on reverse polarity.
| Hanse 575 | Private Yachting | Croatia / Adriatic | Info: https://bigblue.fun
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Lyn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2025 at 15:42
On my 588, there are two switches: one on the transom and the other at a helm station.  Any chance you have another switch to model after?
Jon
S/V Lyn
2017 Hanse 588 | Hull 19 | Deep draft | 150hp | 220v & 110v systems | Lithium House Bank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blue Swede Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2025 at 15:49
Originally posted by Lyn Lyn wrote:

On my 588, there are two switches: one on the transom and the other at a helm station.  Any chance you have another switch to model after?

Hi Jon. I only have one transom switch (apart from the remote) on my 575. Its mounted opposite to the backstay tensioner where the other switches for garage light etc. are. I need to know how to connect the wires to the new switch that has a different pin layout.


Edited by Blue Swede - 04 March 2025 at 15:54
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Lyn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2025 at 16:25
OK the 575 & 588 installations may be too different, but here's how I would go about it:

1.) Confirm pin-outs of your new switch.  I would think one of your two center terminals is where your voltage would go.  Place one lead on a multimeter in the center, depress the switch, and put the other lead on the terminal in the direction you're pressing.  If you're in continuity mode, you should hear a beep.  If you're measuring resistance, the resistance should be 0.  Confirm the other side.
2.) Now, we need to figure out which is your voltage source.  I would suspect it is the red one.  Measure voltage between this wire and an available ground hopefully nearby.  If you get 12v, then put this one on one of the center terminals.  If you don't have a ground nearby, then you can probably just put the red one on first in the center.  If steps 3-5 don't work for you, then back up to this spot and try the brown one in the center (my second guess).  If I zoom in enough, I think that is a yellow/green wire, which may suggest ground.  Try testing for 12v between these two.  If that's the case, red on one of your center terminals and yellow/green on the other center terminal.
3.) Then, start with just one wire putting it on one end of the switch on the side that you put the red wire.  The white one for instance.  Activate the switch.
4.) If that worked, try the other wire on the other end on the same side that you put the red wire.  Activate the switch.
5.) If up is down and down is up, swap wire positions.





Edited by Lyn - 04 March 2025 at 16:28
Jon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blue Swede Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2025 at 16:37
Originally posted by Lyn Lyn wrote:

OK the 575 & 588 installations may be too different, but here's how I would go about it:

1.) Confirm pin-outs of your new switch.  I would think one of your two center terminals is where your voltage would go.  Place one lead on a multimeter in the center, depress the switch, and put the other lead on the terminal in the direction you're pressing.  If you're in continuity mode, you should hear a beep.  If you're measuring resistance, the resistance should be 0.  Confirm the other side.
2.) Now, we need to figure out which is your voltage source.  I would suspect it is the red one.  Measure voltage between this wire and an available ground hopefully nearby.  If you get 12v, then put this one on one of the center terminals.  If you don't have a ground nearby, then you can probably just put the red one on first in the center.  If steps 3-5 don't work for you, then back up to this spot and try the brown one in the center (my second guess).  If I zoom in enough, I think that is a yellow/green wire, which may suggest ground.  Try testing for 12v between these two.  If that's the case, red on one of your center terminals and yellow/green on the other center terminal.
3.) Then, start with just one wire putting it on one end of the switch on the side that you put the red wire.  The white one for instance.  Activate the switch.
4.) If that worked, try the other wire on the other end on the same side that you put the red wire.  Activate the switch.
5.) If up is down and down is up, swap wire positions.

I did check the new switch and found the center pin (Power) and the two momentary sides. I was afraid to fry the controller as there are one red and one brown, but i will check with the meter first, good call.

My other concern is that i believe that the controller works on -12 and +12 so not sure if my new momentary switch can handle that or even how to wire it switching polarity.

Also, the white wire is for pairing a new remote, don't want to trigger that as i it would lock me out of the garage.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Diamond Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2025 at 18:14
This is the diagram for the factory NIMBLE (read: Junk) antenna/switch.     I used it when I rewired mine to a GAMA switch.   Not sure if this is what you were looking for:


Rick
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Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blue Swede Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 March 2025 at 18:23
Originally posted by Black Diamond Black Diamond wrote:

This is the diagram for the factory NIMBLE (read: Junk) antenna/switch.     I used it when I rewired mine to a GAMA switch.   Not sure if this is what you were looking for:



Hi. Im looking for the GIMI Hydraulic transom schematics, i think this is something else?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Black Diamond Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 March 2025 at 16:31
Sorry,   I thought you were looking for the switching from the stern or the wireless remote to ACTIVATE the hydraulics.   Not the hydraulics wiring itself.    I can't speak for the 588 or other boats, but on the 575 the switch on the stern as well as the wireless remote both led to the same junction box (in my picture) that activates the gate hydraulics.    When I replaced my remote I started with the wireless unit, which told me which wires were up / down and then replicated those connections for the switch in the cockpit.  

The schematic I posted is the wireless remote antenna connections.   In other words,  if you follow the antenna (on the 575 mounted on the inside of the hull in the starboard aft void) it should be wired like this diagram. 

If I have it wrong, I apologize.   Good luck.
Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
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