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Matt
Captain
Joined: 08 March 2014 Location: New York, USA Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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Posted: 20 November 2019 at 16:00 |
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I went through the third reef installation on my 445 last year ahead of moving her from New York to Florida. In the end we settled on two line reefing for the 3rd reef. There is room for a third leach line going through the boom. The tack line replaces one end of the main sheet at the winches (I have a separate shorter mainsheet for single ended offshore use) while the 3rd reef leach line goes to an additional clutch I had installed at the bank. The 3rd reef tack goes up from the mast base turning block and through a sail grommet and is attached is secured to holes on the gooseneck mast collar on the other side.
It worked just fine although at the expense of a lot of rope in the cockpit. It is a lot safer than rerouting reef lines in the kind of seas that would require it. Edited by Matt - 20 November 2019 at 16:02 |
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HANSE 445 #231 "ALBION"
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Muriel
Commander
Joined: 19 February 2019 Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: 20 November 2019 at 18:58 |
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I sure do love my in-mast furling. Ease the main sheet a bit, ease the outhaul to the desired reef point on the boom, wind in the furler to the desired reef point on the leech, re-tension the outhaul, haul on the main. I can stay on the port wheel driving while I control outhaul and main sheet and my first mate can wind in the furler. Stay flat and fast in 2 mins or less with infinite adjustments and no dramas. Because it's so easy, we can do it as we see the conditions changing and be ready early. Shaking out a reef in lightening conditions is almost as easy. Flip the lever on the mast, open the jammer on the furler, tension the outhaul. Done. Never have to be afraid of too much or too little sail.
Has any body tried the Elvstrom Crossover Sail? If so, any reports? North are recommending their G2 Gennaker with a Snuffer rather than their G0 furler because they say it has a better range for cruising. I like the furler concept better for fewer dramas when short handed.
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Muriel
Commander
Joined: 19 February 2019 Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: 20 November 2019 at 19:00 |
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Sorry, G1 is their recommendation.
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TouchOfGrey
Commander
Joined: 16 March 2018 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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Posted: 20 November 2019 at 22:48 |
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Hi David,
we live in the Netherlands and rec'd our 418 spring last year. Some of the mod's/additions we did: - installed some Ikea storage bins on either side of entrance, the 418 cockpit lacks storage for small stuff like phone, keys, book etc. - we had retractable bow thruster fitted by the yard. Works perfect. - After initial delivery had a B&G 4G radar dome installed in the mast. Problem here: Hanse does not install some empty pipe/conduit from electrical panel to mast area. Adding a cable later (like we did) is very cumbersome. - we opted for the ss anchor & chain. Mainly because I don't like the rusty look after a while on regular anchors. Didn't regret it, but the boat is only 18 months now. - FCL sails, they're really nice. Added UV coat on the jib + separate cover when sail is not used for prolonged period of time. This also avoids the rainwater ingress resulting in mold in the sail. - we didn't add third reef, certainly would for your type of trip. After reef 2 you can disconnect lines of reef 1 and use that for reef 3. - opted for extra winches, otherwise you only have 2. We did go for electrical, love it. - opted for Dyneema halyards. - after delivery we added a Furlstrom sail from Elvstrom. WE LOVE THE SAIL!! Used it a tremendous amount and the furling is so much safer in choppy conditions. In downwind tracks we always have an AWA of ~150 degrees to have the boat comfortable and sail stable. In pure downwind runs you’d need a spi/gennaker pole. - this winter we'll have a 'stay/support' added between end of anchor support and bow to absorb the high halyard tension required for sails like Code-0 or Code-1. (Furlstrom = Code-1) - We replaced the regular Mastervolt charger with a Victron EasyPlus 1600 and modified the small AC panel wiring ourselves. Now the Nespresso Coffee maker works at sea ;-) - This winter we'll look for a storm jib. I'm not a big fan of the storm jibs installed around a rolled-up jib. And since I only use storm sails when it's windy, I also don't like hoisting a storm jib in the second groove/track because the 35 m2 of the regular jib is a lot of sail to handle understaffed on the foredeck. I'm still doubting between a storm jib with anti-torsion line, use the furler drum of my Code-1 + Dyneema loop around both bow cleats. This way we can hoist the sail 10-15 inch behind the jib and you can even prepare it well in advance. When needed just roll in the jib, and roll out the storm jib. Another way is using one halyard as a 'forestay', hooked into a Dyneema loop around bow cleats and hoist a regular storm jib along this line. - I haven't checked our lightning solution yet. Something you may want to check. - take a spare motor starter!! So far roughly 10% !! of all 418's have seen their motor starter burn. Yanmar blames the large diameter electrical wiring in combi with large number of connections made at the starter plus connection. Installing another connection to join these wires and then only have 1 cable connected to the motor starter may avoid such issues. - the fuel filter & water separator is installed close to the fuel tank under PS aft bed (we have 3 cabin version). The location is almost impossible to service. This winter we'll have this filter removed and install a double filter (Racor or Vetus) in the motor compartment, there is enough room. The double one so we can switch filter when one is clogging up and clean the dirty one while engine keeps running. - we had handle bars installed on the outside of the sprayhood. One of the very best spent Euro 200 ever. Hope this helps, Have fun and sail safe! Henk de Groot Touch of Grey H418 #026 |
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Matt1
Rear Admiral
Joined: 10 March 2019 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 727 |
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Posted: 21 November 2019 at 08:39 |
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I'd endorse the handle on sprayhood modification. I'd love to have these because the side decks are very narrow when coming back from the mast back into the cockpit. Am trying to find a way to have these retro fitted as I've seen a few Hanse's with them and they would work really well.
I also looked into subdividing the area under the port aftcabin bunk to make more contained stowage but in the end found a 35l "really useful" box fitted the available space nicely. It's held down with a webbing strap. I believe you can get the boxes in Aus http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/australia/html/howtobuy.php |
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Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK
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Axel
Commander
Joined: 08 May 2016 Location: Ugljan/Croatia Status: Offline Points: 91 |
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Posted: 21 November 2019 at 11:17 |
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Hi David, I can recommend www.tuchwerkstatt.de in Greifswald. They have all measurements for your boat. Their costs are half of W&R for Covers and Bimini etc. Greetings Axel
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Hanse 385 #434 Nyanga 2
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S&J
Admiral
Joined: 30 August 2014 Location: Perth WA / Med Status: Offline Points: 1371 |
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Posted: 21 November 2019 at 14:38 |
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I haven't needed stormsail or 3rd reef yet but am considering these if I plan longer offshore passages.
I don't think that using the 2nd track in the forestay foil is feasible. Not only do you have the large area of jib to handle, the battens make this an impossible job to do with one person. I like the suggestion of a loop between the cleats and using a dyneema halyard (spinnaker?) as a forestay for a storm jib. I also think that attempting to use the 1st reefing line and re-run it for the 3rd reef is problematic. You can only do this once the 2nd reef is in place and I suspect you would need to lower the sail a bit to actually be able to reach the 3rd reef cringle. Much better to have a dedicated line, although I can see that this clutters the cockpit. However in most cases this will not be required for day sailing where you can pick your weather window, and is less of an issue when on extended offshore passages when you are likely to need additional heavy weather sail plans. That being said, I don't think the 385/8 or 415/8 are ideal ocean passage boats. I admire Interlude who sailed their first boat from Greifswald to Sydney, learning along the way. My own future plans include the Canary islands which might be 5-7 days offshore from Portugal, but I can't see myself sailing my own boat on longer offshore trips. Think I'd rather get a crew position on a 50ft+ boat! The stay support mentioned for a furlstrom or other asymmetric can be done with a suitably large bottle screw between the existing hoops on the forestay chainplate and the anchor step. I ordered the additional grab handles on the sprayhood but Inspiration messed up my order and the sprayhood arrived in Greifswald without them. W&R added these retrospectively by clamping brackets to the sprayhoos frame. These are available as a kit from svb: https://www.svb24.com/en/spraycap-handrail-holder.html I have heard poor reports of the standard Hanse canvaswork. Much better to get these elsewhere. Apart from the omission of the handholds mentioned, I am very happy with the canvas work supplied via Inspiration Marine which was actually less expensive than Hanse. Can't remember who they used (Tecsew maybe?). Matt, I like the box you have fitted under the port berth. I always thought this was an under utilised area. I have now made use of it by storing the port leaf of the saloon table (which I never used as I have the centre chart table layout) and some telescopic ladders so I can get aboard when ashore for the winter. Just a word of warning - this area can get wet from any leaks in the stern shower or from the pressure release valve on the calorifier if you haven't dealt with that as mentioned in many other posts.
Edited by S&J - 21 November 2019 at 14:53 |
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H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising
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Tranquillity
Captain
Joined: 01 December 2018 Location: Hamble, UK Status: Offline Points: 267 |
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Posted: 21 November 2019 at 18:07 |
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Matt - Tecsew can supply the sprayhood side grab handles, they had a few pics on their website when you look for Hanse Sprayhoods. The side grab handles are brilliant, well recommended especially in big seas and on way back from pub!
David - Many congrats on your new 418 and hope you will be as pleased as we have been with our 418. She sails really well and is a delight to live on. If your thinking of sailing around the Stockholm Archipelago you may want to check out another 418 "Sailing Yacht Aurora" on YouTube, looks a stunning area. You have lots of good comments and suggestions already but a few from our 418 experience: - We upgraded the cockpit table to the version with the built in storage as you always need a place to keep bottles, snacks, hats etc plus it raises the height of the chart plotter so far easier to read and use. Just makes for more comfortable sailing. - Added extra grab rails by companion way steps, can send picture but really useful. - Second water tank needs a sender unit installing, not part of standard package, good to have full picture of your water levels. - Battery monitor, if off the grid for few days also good idea to monitor consumption and battery state, we are in process of installing a PICO monitor. - Bilge alarm, simple low cost enhancement is to add buzzer with mute switch to Bilge float switch circuit so if bilge float is triggered you hear the alarm and get an early warning. - Primary fuel filter as Henk mentions is not easy to access as by fuel tank under rear port berth. We had his moved to engine bay as offers far better access to check/maintain. Our dealer Inspiration Marine kindly did this for us under warranty, its a case of simply moving it to reverse side of bulkhead it is bolted to as standard. - Anchoring, we added an extra 30mtrs of warp and oversized swivel plus will upgrade the anchor this winter to a 20KG Rocna as sits well on bow roller but would go even bigger if living on the hook. Also add a bow fender for anchoring as with the 418 plumb bow will save a lot of dents and knocks. - Liferaft storage, we installed a shelf in rear stb locker under helm to make easier to access, the lockers are so deep we wanted to raise raft for easy access. Hope these help and best wishes for your new 418. Good sailing. Jon. 418#44 |
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mglonnro
Commadore
Joined: 31 July 2015 Location: Turku Status: Offline Points: 352 |
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Posted: 21 November 2019 at 18:27 |
These might be the factory subcontractors who make the original covers. At least that was what someone said somewhere and I did see them working on a new Hanse down in Greifswald. Anyways, I wonder whether the quality has changed since S&J took delivery? We've had no problem that I can recall. The lazy bag, for example, isn't too small but the sail fits nicely. (And yes, we have a 388, not 418)
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-- Mikael
https://nakedsailor.blog |
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TouchOfGrey
Commander
Joined: 16 March 2018 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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Posted: 21 November 2019 at 19:08 |
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Here some additions to my previous post:
- the separate VHF handheld charges when put back in it's cradle at the nav table. In itself nice but continuous charging is bad for the battery. So I added a small switch in the power line running from the VHF to this cradle. See picture. ![]() - Hanse is using fast & labor reducing techniques to build these boats. As a result many items are installed using 'standard' screws which can penetrate fully through the wood it's screwed into. This applies also for the crews used to install the common rail with +wire connections next to the battery set. These screws protrude into the area where many electrical cables run. I've loosened these screws, glued a second layer of plywood against the 'wall' and then tightened the screws. Now my electrical wires cannot be damaged by the sharp protruding screws. See my pictures for situation before & aft the fix. - I fully concur with the battery monitor suggestion, did same on our boat & love it. - Same for the storage bins under PS aft bed. We used epoxy to glue 4 notches on the 'floor' for each of 3 boxes, these notches fit in the corner supports of the storage bins. This to avoid sliding of the storage bins against either the exhaust or the water boiler. This location is reinforced and has a level floor for the airco. See picture ![]() - The Hanse dealer in the Netherlands has all the canvas work done locally, not by the yard. I'm ok with the quality but it's not super. Had the zipper of the small mainsail cover piece replaced already, and also the shape of this piece modified. It fits better now. And of course had the side handles fitted on the spray hood after delivery. Another change: originally the main sheet chaved our spray hood when we folded it down. As a warranty item the maker installed a hinge in the main frame tube. I never liked it and it made the spray hood more flexing/unstable. The canvas maker installing my handles removed the hinges and added a thicker tube. The spray hood is now much more sturdy and doesn't flex so much. Downside: if I fold it down, I need to remove 2 bolts to move the whole spray hood aft to avoid the chaving. In the end a small price for a sturdy and safe spray hood. Good luck with all your preparations! And thanks for starting this thread, I really like reading all the improvements other sailors made! Best regards, Henk Touch of Grey Edited by TouchOfGrey - 21 November 2019 at 19:30 |
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