New Hanse 548

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Topic: New Hanse 548
Posted: 05 January 2019 at 08:48

Hi There all nice people,

I will be receiving my new Hanse 548 within March.

I would be glad to receive any ( good or bad ) feedbacks regarding this new boat.

It is Grey GelCoat with White hard top, furling main sail, self T. jib and + electrical reacher

Only one Quick Rect. Bow T.

My old Boat was a classical mainsail + Genova, Beneteau 46, and it is quite and a quite big change for me now...

My old boat was very practical and very handy to use in all aspects...

I have my doubts about the healthyness of Quick retractable bow thruster ( does it have the same sensor problem, ) C-Zone, The Grey Gelcoat Color fading away , and the hydrolic door + system at the aft ... Any electrical poor wiring problems ? etc etc..

Although, I like the boat very very much, and believe in it, I am just freaking out about some troubles that may take place because this boat has far more electronic and electrical systems as opposed to the previous ones...

Any replies and the time would be appreciated.

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Posted: 05 January 2019 at 19:32

Having accepted delivery of my 575 in late 2017, I can share a few things with you from my experience:

1. Have an acceptance and commissioning checklist. Use it. Make sure you note all the things you have heard about as issues, care about from prior boats, or just plain want to check off to be sure... Its not just about "checking things out"... its about having them explain how the systems work or how common items can be fixed (like replacing an impeller or removing water from the fuel). If you are interested I can PM you a copy of the list I used.

2. Document everything for warranty purposes. Its important to have a shared list between you and your Hanse dealer representing everything you find, its current status, and when it was found. Use the list even after you are out of the warranty period as you may have found things during the warranty period and this proves that. GET YOUR DEALER TO ACKNOWLEDGE THE LIST and open items on a regular basis.

3. The QUICK thrusters have been problem free so far (for us). We have both bow and stern thrusters. One thing you will want to know is how to lock the doors so they don't open in a heavy sea. There is a lanyard on the interior of the unit that can do this. One thing you may want to be sure of is the painting *INSIDE* the thruster. Proper painting is needed as you can see flaking and other issues.

4. *IT IS* a more complex boat. I went thru the same transition. I found the B&G electronics and NMEA 2000 connections to be problematic, requiring lots of work to stabilize. Its going to take months before you can probably consider things stabilized and reliable. Some things have been rock solid since day 1, while other things constant problems until you finally get to the root issue. In my case B&G NMEA connections were jammed-in at the factory and it created spurious network issues. There is also a lot of force on a rig this size. Make sure your blocks and furling gear is sized properly. Get the recommendations from SELDEN, LEWMAR and others for what it should be and verify that the right unit is in place.

5. Did you get roller furling boom or mast? I have a furling boom and love it, and it lets me have full battened HPM sails.

6. Not sure about your last boat, but be ready to deal with fuses. Lots of them. Rather than blue sea breakers (what I was used to), the 12V system is largely fuses with a nice looking panel to switch things on and off. I'm not a fan of this, but it works and you get used to it.

Good luck, and congratulations!

Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI

Kanra

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Posted: 07 January 2019 at 06:55

Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experiences with your boat.It is much appreciated.

I noted your comments on #1 and #2..Trust me, I already have a huge list and I already received all the books + manuals from the dealer.

I am spending an important time on maintenance and other details on the user manual.

However, I am more interested real life problems other than the ones in users' manual although they are very important.

Because I could not afford to but a boom furling, I bought a mast furling + self tacking jib, + electrical reacher with FCL sails.... I really like the boom furling but I think you can buy a small boat with that extra cost..

Instead, I wanted to give it a try to nice white carbon hard top, grey gelcoat finish on the boat even a barbecue.

Thanks for the comments on the fuses... I think, I will need a lot of spare ones...

On the new Hanse 548, all of the 12V and 24 V operations are controlled by C-Zone which is integrated with B&G and I-Phone or I-Pad. If there is a problem, you can bypass the system by changing the placement of the fuses but ofcourse, this needs practice.

I have seen your comments of B&G and the NMEA and I guessing + hoping that this is a problem which is limited with your case...

Thanks very much again for all the comments..

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Posted: 07 January 2019 at 09:41

One note:

I did not get the FURLBOOM option, I waited until the boat got to the states and then put a Leisurefurl system on here. It cost 50% of the HANSE boom furling option and I was happy with it from my last boat. I had the same opinion as you so I did it here. It was a bit of juggling with Elvstrom, Leisurefurl and Hanse, but we got it done.

OK....some real world commissioning issues you might not have on your list:

On a boat with two helms the compasses mounted on the steering pods should be pointing to an imaginary line parallel to the center line of the boat on both sides. On my boat, one of the compasses was pointed at the anchor or bow of the boat (about 4 degrees off). It was an install problem and I had to have it fixed. It needed to be removed and remounted.
There is so much stuff mounted on starboard pod that there is a strong deviation in the compass when you power up the Volvo engine. Not necessarily run it, just push the ignition button. About 15 degrees. You can see the compass move when the engine controls come live. After getting the port compass aligned and boxed properly, I had to decide what to do about the starboard pod. As there is not much you can do outside of creating a deviation card, and as the deviation *ONLY* occurs when the engine is on, you need to decide if you will set align the compass for "engine on" or "engine off". I decided to box it while the engine is running and now its dead-on while motoring. The port compass is dead-on while sailing. There is an unfortunate but real difference between the two and I had to manage that. Good compasses, but a consequence of the installation.
There were a couple of stains in the blinds that pull out in the overhead hatches. You had to check carefully, but they were there. Hanse replaced them.
The gaskets around a couple of the Lewmar hatches leaked. Make sure you do a test to ensure they are watertight. Easy enough to fix, and usually just dirt or alignment. They also gave me a couple of spares.
The B&G electronics should be *RELIABLE*. Make sure they work repeatedly, not just once or twice. Not having a wind instrument or depth sounder is just not acceptable.
I had to replace the top jib furling swivel as it was undersized for the boat. Modern sails (like HPM or FCL) require lots of halyard tension and the SELDEN swivel that came with the boat couldn't take the tension and "pinched" its bearings, causing lots of friction. More on this if you are interested.
The standard holding tank sensors were pretty much useless since day 1. The design of the tanks is that waste enters from the top and clogs up the resistance based sensor. You go from 0% to 100% the first time its used. I replaced these with ultrasonic sensors that are much more reliable.
The manual and the provided 12V wiring diagrams are WRONG. They are useful, but things have changed since. The only way you can REALLY tell what is going on is to look at the wires themselves going into the HANSE panels. Each is (fortunately) well labeled as to what they control. You can then update your diagram accordingly. I actually printed out all the diagrams, put them in a plastic page protector, and have a book of all the things I might need. Its better than trying to boot your PC in 10' waves.
The Autohelm controller has a 50AMP fuse (on my boat) built into the starboard cockpit locker installation. Unfortunately, someone at HANSE had a 15AMP fuse *IN FRONT OF* it on the WURTH panel feeding this 50AMP fuse. In a heavy sea, the autohelm draws a lot more than 15AMPS. Its not a real solution, but I was able to upgrade the fuse to 25AMPS. The 50 AMP fuse will never blow, but I am at least aware of this design issue.
The mast bilge pump failed when I tested it. On my boat there were 2 pumps, one for the mast sump and the other in the main bilge. Rather than just replacing it, I changed things. I thought the main bilge pump was undersized so I upgraded it to a RULE 2500 and moved the main bilge pump (a 1000GPH pump) to the mast sump.
Check the batteries. I ordered the 4x160AH Victron House bank upgrade and I got some generic battery. As I asked for Victron, I had them swap these out. Most people don't check the sides, but the ones they put on my boat had a "MAX 40AMP charge" label on them when there was a 100 plus amp charger in front of them.
The steering pods (Jefa) had a few inches of slack when you moved them. We adjusted the cables, but it didn't go away. Turns out there is a set screw inside the pedestal to adjust the chain. Since then, fine.
I asked for (and Hanse/dealer provided) a spare "mushroom" for lifting up the floor storage panels.

FWIW - real-real issues.. Its a complex boat and you have to assume there will be several months of things like this "settling in"...

Edited by Black Diamond - 07 January 2019 at 10:10

Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI

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Posted: 07 January 2019 at 10:51

Rick's comment about the wiring diagrams is right. Either the dealer has not updated his database or even worse Hanse yard supplies outdated diagrams. Fortunately all wires are in typical German fashion well marked and you will solve any mysteries.

I kept the "Originals" of the wiring diagrams at home, if you print them on a letter size (A4) paper, they are not really readable. Instead of a enlarged paper version I have all diagrams on a US stick and on a Android tablet, which allows to magnify the areas of interest. This tablet also serves via goFree as a repeater at the nav station.

Frank

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Posted: 07 January 2019 at 20:06

Well, I could not appreciate it more for sharing your experiences... Especially, regarding the compass settings, the sensors , the matter with the steering pods and the swivel at the top of the jib... I will check them all.. I will also go to the fair in Dusseldorf which will be about 2 weeks prior to the shipment of my boat ex factory...

Therefore, I will have the chance to discuss these type of matters with them
That s why I find all this info very useful... I will also maku sure to discuss regarding the electricity diagrams...

The info regarding the authelm pilot and 15 Amp is als very interesting...I will make sure to double check this because I would not like to find out in heavy seas....

All I can say is thank you very very very much for your time and this priceless information...

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Posted: 07 January 2019 at 20:08

Well also thank both of you guys for the information concerning the electrical diagrams...

I surely will bring this up when I meet them in Germany / fair...

Thank you again both...

Edited by Kanra - 07 January 2019 at 20:12

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Posted: 07 January 2019 at 20:17

I think it important to note that Hanse addressed every single item I brought up with them. No arguments. They acknowledged the problem and dealt with it. So far the new boat experience I had with McMichael's as broker and Hanse as a manufacturer has been great. Its just a big complex boat that needs some time to settle in.

Edited by Black Diamond - 07 January 2019 at 20:19

Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI

Kanra

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Posted: 08 January 2019 at 07:30

I surely agree to that,

I am sure, I may have a few different issues to deal with...Maybe they will be totally different to yours.

The dealer in Turkey is and experienced one, but I do not think that anybody would adress some hidden issues unless the captain really sees or feels them.

Because the boat builders can introduce new models and make changes on their models in a shorter time span, this provides access to new technology ....BUT applying that new technology on the boats is not always easy...It requires a lot of training / exercise and proper training..

Dealing with small errors / problems is actually a part of the game,( helps you to learn and investigate more about the boat) but if we are talking about big engine + cruising problems or navigation problems ...etc, than that is different..

Are you happy with your Volvo Penta engine ? Because I hear lots and lots of matters in Turkey that people are not very happy ( especially with the sail drive version ) because of lots of matters that take place electronically.

I had a 75 HP YANMAR on my previous boat with a shaft drive + non-fold propellar which never gave me ANY issues as long as the yearly maintenance was made..

On this boat, I will have 110 HP YANMAR version with a shaft drive + folding propellars which I am happy about.

If you ever get your hands on to that check list of yours, could you send it to me please ? I would be happy to compare it to mine ..It is always good to learn more and double check ...

That is only if you have the time ..

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