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New seacocks/thru-hulls |
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Captain Cook ![]() Vice Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 926 |
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Gjspwr: "Does anyone know what the 2007 Hanse 400 had? Also, any way to test the things, preferably without banging on them? " You do not need to test anything. Look at the photos above. My 7 years old thru-hulls were developing red rings where detoriation had started, but they still had plenty of metal. Then look at the photo from HPNielsen DK, where 75% of the metal have vanished, and remember, that the thru-hull disintegrated when he was removing it. His boat is from 2006. As I have written in the warning to ALL Hanse owners: If you are sailing in a boat with the original thru-hulls from 2005-2012, CHANGE THEM NOW. And take another look at the photo above. Do not bang on those things, unless you like the idea of a fountain in your boat. Do read the posts on pages 1-3 as well. In another post I mentioned that a set of Trudesign for my boat was $430. Imagine that your boat sinks because one of the old thru-hulls disintegrate. Further imagine that a person is drowning. And imagine, that the relatives of the deceased are suing you for negligence. What would that amount to in the US? ----- A little more than $430 I suspect? Do yourself and your family a great favor, and change them soonest! :Kjeld
Edited by Captain Cook - 26 February 2021 at 18:02 |
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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H8jer ![]() Admiral ![]() Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Last spring we changed to Trudesign on our Hanse 370 2008. The truhulls looked ok but had like Cpt Cook also saw a redish tan 0.5mm into the sides when cut open. So maybe there would have been some years left. But I believe it also could depend on how much the shore power and the waterheater is used. We don't use the water heater much and also have a sterling galvanic isolator. But now we don't need to worry anymore, that alone makes the upgrade to Trudesign a nobrainer. Edited by H8jer - 26 February 2021 at 19:39 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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HPNielsen DK ![]() Lieutenant ![]() Joined: 20 May 2019 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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I have just changed the valve on my sd50 to thudesign using a 1” trough hull fitting where I cut off the flange. The only difficulty in the process was to clean the old thread in the SD50. I was lucky to be able to borrow a 1 “ thread cutter that did the trick.
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Borjebus ![]() Commander ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 January 2013 Location: Sweden W Status: Offline Points: 110 |
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I am about to replace my thruhull fitting and valves, and at the moment I will go for true bronze stuff.
Talking to the specialists I realize a problem with the Hanse design - Some of the valves are not directly connected to the thruhull fittings, but with a 90 degree turn in between. This is absolutely not recommended the specialists claim. Is it possible to do a "correct" installation in the toilet locker? Any suggestions appreciated.
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BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments
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Captain Cook ![]() Vice Admiral ![]() ![]() Joined: 23 May 2006 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 926 |
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A wise man and a specialist is not necessarily the same person. A 90 degree direction change in a liquid flow is not recommended, but to redirect the brown goo through the hull, it is the most convenient solution. In my H400 I had the brass fitting for 7 years, and thereafter the Trudesign for another 7 years, and I have not had any problem with the 90 degree fittings. The Trudesign ball valve has been criticized in myhanse for having a small bypass opening, but I experience no difference. In our boats the (mostly) liquid waste is leaving a higher position (potential energy), and thereby will try to get a velocity of 9,82 m/sec2 in the first second of downward motion. The fast flow will work against any clogging in the bend. The claim of the specialist may be true for very big ships with slow moving waste, though. If you are worried, try the search function here, but I do not remember any posts from members complaining of the 90 deg. angle. Maybe if you are throwing toilet paper and sanitary napkins in the toilet there is a problem, but I assume that you have owned your boat since 2013, so you may tell me, if you ever had a clogging in the 90 degrees bend? :Kjeld
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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Borjebus ![]() Commander ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 January 2013 Location: Sweden W Status: Offline Points: 110 |
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Many thanks Kjeld,
No, we haven't had any clogging problems in the piping but the reasons for having the valve directly to the thruhull fitting should be (according to the "specialist"): - If the 90 degree piece fails you can shut-off with the valve - While the boat is on the dry you are able to inspect and glue the ball valve from outside My wife agrees to less "space" in the cabinet, but my fear is that an installation with valve directly to the thruhull fitting will not have space enough. /Börje
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BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments
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HPNielsen DK ![]() Lieutenant ![]() Joined: 20 May 2019 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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According to trudesign the certification for below waterline applications only apply for direct connection between skinfitting and seacock. I believe its a matter of being able to withstand physical force. I myself have used the 90 degree elbow as well because thats the only way to install it in the H400. The seacocks under the zink are very well protected from any external force.
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H64 ![]() Sub Lieutenant ![]() Joined: 22 September 2019 Location: Sweden Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Hi
I have a Hanse 430 from 2008 and also have the job ahead of me to replace the original seacocks/thru-hulls. Still on land a few more days I would like to start replacing the seacock mounted on the SD50. Can anyone let me know the threading specification into the SD50 body and the article number for the suggested trudesign product? Many thanks in advance! Best regards Patrik
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Borjebus ![]() Commander ![]() ![]() Joined: 29 January 2013 Location: Sweden W Status: Offline Points: 110 |
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The SD50 valve is 1". I used a bronze male/male and a bronze ball-valve.
You might need a 1" thread cutter to clean the threads before putting the new stuff in. /Börje
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BÄSK, Hanse 370e #82 from 2006, Yanmar 3JH4E/SD50, 3-blade Flexofold, RMC(Lewmar) 185 Bowthruster, Vulcan 9, Simrad+B&G instruments
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H8jer ![]() Admiral ![]() Joined: 14 September 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 1265 |
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Hi Patrik It looks like the SD50 saildrive has 1" thread female (and SD20 1/2" https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9673&KW=Maestrini+DZR&PID=85814&title=sd20-saildrive#85814). I have searched a lot and can't find a TruDesign HEX nipple male to male. On the forum StavrozNZ has then used a composite hex nipple from hansenproducts.: and But looking away from Hansen is a scandinavian name...Hansenproducts is native New Zealand product and there are no real distributors in Europe. They mention Isiflo in Norway, but they make their own composite fittings and they are only rated for 40 degrees Celsius. Others have cut off the flange of a tru-hull and stuck it in the hole in the engine... Updated 27. may The SD20 is perhaps not 1/2 thread! Trudesign has informed me that the Threads in the sail-drive are Tapered (BSPT) and not straight/parallel (BSP). Edited by H8jer - 27 May 2021 at 09:39 |
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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin
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