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New seacocks/thru-hulls

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fiore View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fiore Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 February 2022 at 12:03
Ciao, I have to do the same job and I have to order Trudesign sea cocks. I have a Hanse 400 from 2010 have you found the estte dimensions? Thank you Fiorenzo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Yeoey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 February 2022 at 19:07
Hi and greetings frm Australia,

Sorry canít help with dimensions- when the job was done the fellow who did it just measured existing  fittings and ordered them from chandlery - May I suggest that you check Trudesign website for guidance and specifications and email them direct fir their thoughts if you need professional guidance. 

Peter 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 February 2022 at 10:55

The list of Trudesign fittings required to replace all the thru hulls is as follows. this was prepared by someone in a the forum. It is correct gfor my 2007 build 400e, but I ca not say if it is correct for 2010 build.

Black Waste:
1,5" throughhull
1,5" 90 degree
1,5" valve
1,5" hose connector for 38 mm hose

Toilet inlet:
3/4" through hull
3/4" 90 degree
3/4" valve
3/4" hose connector for 19mm hose


Shower out:
3/4" through hull
3/4" 90 degree
3/4" valve
3/4" hose connector for 19mm hose

Galley:
1" through hull
1" valve
1" hose connector for 25mm hose
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HIN DE-HANJ0331J708
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landlocked View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote landlocked Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 March 2023 at 18:03
Adding to this long thread on H400 seacocks:    I replaced seven seacocks this month on my 2006 H400e, after seeing some of the problems on similar boats.  I didn't find any obvious issues with the old fittings except for one:   the forward holding tank outlet hose easily fell off the seacock when I started to remove it.   From the photo you can see that the corrosion is on the part that adapts the seacock threaded connection to a barbed connection for the hose.   I don't know what this part is made of but clearly it was not up to the task.  I didn't do any detailed inspection of the rest of the parts, so can't say for sure that they were all ok.   If anyone is still wondering about these parts it may be worth checking this hose adaptor as it appears to me to be the weak link.

Another note:   Hanse had bonded all the aft head fittings and the galley sink fittings but none of the forward head fittings.   I thought they were all bonded but only discovered this when taking the old ones out.   This is probably why my forward holding tank fitting was on the brink of disaster while the aft one was ok.



Thanks to all for the information about True-design, which is what I chose for replacements.  It was very helpful to have part numbers and photos from others who had made this change.


Edited by landlocked - 30 March 2023 at 18:04
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ratbasher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 March 2023 at 12:37
Owen - valuable post; thanks.  After my own scare detailed earlier in this thread I've added checking the hose fittings to my regular maintenance schedule, the same as basic rigging checks before each departure.  While people quite understandably focus on the valves themselves, the constant working of a boat at sea can loosen the fittings which are just as critical to watertight integrity.  

On a previous boat I had a metal raw water pipe sheer right through from the constant vibration. First I knew of it was my son yelling that there was a foot of water in the cabin; as we were in the Cairnbaan lock on the Crinan Canal under the gaze of hordes of tourists then at least this would have been a more entertaining place in which to sink. 

I'm now fanatical about shutting all hull valves when leaving the boat for more than a short time.  However, if something is easy to do then we tend to do it, and vice versa.  I was always bad at shutting the engine valve as it was a right PITA with that wretched gate valve.  Since I fitted a ball valve its much easier so it gets done.  Most times.  



H400 (2008) 'Wight Leopard', Gosport UK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nelson01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2023 at 19:14
Hi to all 

Can someone confirm that the skin fittings(trough hull ) installed at factory are BSP and not NSP?

I am in process to order true design fittings but want to ensure proper thread.


Thanks


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 June 2023 at 23:07
Yes
Hanse used BSP tru hull fittings.


Edited by Wild - 28 June 2023 at 23:07
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Captain Cook Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2023 at 15:12
Just re-reading my old thread, I find that Borjebus is recommending (may 2021) to use a thread-cutter to facilitate the mounting of a 1" nipple between SD50 and a ball valve.
This is not wise, because as H8jer remarks on the same page, Yanmar has made it difficult for the users by making the thread BSPT (British Standard Pipe Tapered), while the ball valve is BSP. Luckily it is possible to buy a nipple BSP/BSPT. I purchased one in SS.
Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJgun Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 August 2023 at 09:18
If you have a BSP nipple, it is normally tapered.   If a male part has BSPP it is a face sealing type, not thread sealing, and has no place on these boats.  In Germany their designation for ports (female)) and male is different (more explicit).

You can always fit a BSP tapered male into a BSPT or a BSPP female port and it will seal, and thread sealant is recommended, but essential on boats.

The best seal is male BSP taper into BSPT female port.

With TruDesign you should not be using BSPP male parts anywhere.  A BSP nipple, tapered both ends is the correct nipple.

Cheers
DJ


Edited by DJgun - 13 August 2023 at 09:20
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