We needed two enhancements to the rig.

First, you need a reinforcement to the tack fitting/anchor roller. We fitted a 10mm eyebolt, below the anchor spirit, and a stay to connect with the eye on the anchor roller. Newer Hanses come with that eyebolt factory installed. The eyebolt is about 40-50cm below the roller, and is just about accessible from inside the anchor locker. Further down and you will need to do some remodeling of the front cabin to get access. 

To connect the eyebolt with the eye- on the anchor roller, I used a 8mm chain, tightened with an ordinary fork toggle. Some use Dynema here, I tried that, but found it difficult to tighten properly. Appreciate any ideas if others have succeeded in tightening a dynema setup. The important point is that there needs to quite a bit of (permanent) tension. The anchor roller really cannot handle much award pull without moving. The Code Zero experts much more upward pull than a genakker.

Second, we also fitted the mast with a new halyard opening, about 30cm above the forestay entry, and of course, a dedicated halyard. The problem is that on Hanse, as most production boats, the default spinnaker halyard is fitted to close to the forestay, basically through the same three-function Selden part that holds the forestay and jib halyard. This is too close for the free rotating spindle the you need at the head of the sail for the furler to function. The new fitting seems fine and we have had no issues of the head or roller getting stuck. I have seen reports of others having used furlers without installing a new halyard/entry above the forestay, but not sure how sustainable that is. 

Ours is a 2:1 solution, but really not convinced thats actually needed. 

We use Harken furler system. Very pleased with that. Using the same system for our genny. The torsion wire really works well, including perfectly manageable singlehanded, and it doesn't seem to build up the twist that others do. Been able to pull this in under reasonably stressful conditions. The roller has not let me down. However, be aware that the Harken wire is not supposed to be tensioned as much as other systems, and you need another load carrying line inside the luff of your code sail (dynema).

Our local UK sailmaker was terribly inexperienced with Harken, and messed this up, among other things he did wrong. I guess the lesson is, choose a system that your sailmaker is accustomed to...Also, make sure there is proper reinforcements to the Code sail of both head and tack, not only the clew. There are quite some forces on these points. Ours was not, and tore quickly. Now fixed, DIY, and works beautifully.

The concept is great. We only cruise, fast when we can, but have no idea of implications for ratings and regatta rules. Mostly managed singlehandedly. We have a four-winch cockpit, used creatively sometimes, meaning that I have been sheeting it to both the back and the forward winches. Actually, we only had two winches fitted on the first tours, and even that worked, although a little tricky at times to switch between mainsheet and code sheet. 

30 degrees is surely an exaggeration, and 140 may also be a stretch. The range is less wide, but still, its a favorite sail. 

Obviously, in relative light winds, guess we have used it to about 6 ms. It doubles the headsail area, and concequently, by far exceeds the stability that the boat is designed for. Use with caution and enjoy.

Kind regards,

I