This caused the clutch on the windlass to burn out, so the windlass slips when we want to raise the anchor.

I am trying to take it apart for a rebuild, but the windlass itself is seized on.

We may have to replace the Lewmar windlass on our 400. Is there any way to get to the bolts and the back of the switches without cutting a hole in the liner from the forward cabin?

Thanks

could you give any advice on which model of windlass should/could be installed? do you think the symmetry matters in case it has to be installed on portside or starboard?

I found the two following ones

1. this is "recommended" for H415, currently installed by Hanse

https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/ankerwinde-g1000u-800w-12v-8mm.html" rel="nofollow - https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/ankerwinde-g1000u-800w-12v-8mm.html

2. this is recommended for H400, seems it WAS installed in the past

https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/spare-parts/anchoring-mooring/ankerwinde.html?boatmodel=13" rel="nofollow - https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/spare-parts/anchoring-mooring/ankerwinde.html?boatmodel=13

brand is Lewmar, no details on model are available, significant difference in price. 

Could you please give any advice?

thanks in advance

Gian Paolo

Lewmar Pro Series 1000 12V was mounted in my boat in 2006

any advice between Lewmar or Quick? Size should be the same

Try Google:

https://www.lewmar.com/Lewmar-Files/Manual_Pro-series-fish-manual-G3_B10414%20iss1.pdf

In this manual you can read about my model, and in the wiring diagram you can see that a contactor, an automatic curcuit breaker and a main curcuit breaker are needed.

If you look at the pictures above, you can see the operating gizmo supplied by Hanse, I have furthermore installed an up/down switch  at the steering pedestal.

Picture here under: Contactor in the middle, curcuit breaker marked Anchor under this.

I have mentioned this quite a few times before, and it concerns all myhanse members: Publish your Flag, Hanse Type and Hull # as a minimum in your posts. It is  a nicer style, than if  your are  anonymous.

Apologies for not adding more info about me and my boat, I will do!

Was definitely not my intention to be rude, thanks for mentioning it  :)

Gian Paolo

Hi Gian Paolo I am just a grumpy old sailor, and sometimes a little rough with the words. I will try to be a little nicer in the future. I look forward to see more information on your boat.

Here in Denmark we are often visited by dutch sailors, and Freya has visited Holland twice. Last time I had to turn the boat at Alpen a/d Rijn because two cranes lost the leaf of the bridge into the channel.

Good wind!

Kjeld

Thus following Lewmar advice on their guide I should go for a different model. Then all options come together and I get even more confused: vertical or horizontal? Quick, Lewmar or Lofrans? 

From the descriptions I find it seems that some have a motor underneat, some have it embedded in the metal body (can it be?). Chain is 16m+line, can I add extra chain with a connector and will it still work with the windlass? My plan is to use it for navigation on the east coast of UK coming summer.

(hope the signature is updated)

I have 55 meters of 8mm chain, and I have moved the Lewmar just as the photo from Landlocked.

This model only works with 8mm chain, and as I recall, the chains breaking strenght is 4,5 tons.

One solution for you is to use the 10mm chain in the stern, and then buy some 8mm for the bow.

If you use line in the end of the chain, it has to be of the same strenght as the chain.

Another solution is to buy a model that uses 10mm chain.

Chain-connectors I believe will be the weakest link of the chain.

I have no experience with other brands of winches.

Quite some years ago, Landlocked made a manual for his boat Kerkyra for chartering.

I have it still, and new Hanse 400-owners may find it useful.

If you are confident with manualslib.com, you can get it there as Kerkyra Hanse 400E manual.

My Gypsy was jammed and and i managed to free it with a good old fashion tap ( or two) with a rubber hammer.

It blew the main 80amp fuse, cannot find a trip switch ? any ideas  - changed the fuse and  now works fine but it should have a trip somewhere ?

When telling about the 80amp fuse, I assume that you refer to the automatic curcuit breaker (70A), which is reset by lifting a small arm - no change of fuse required??? Take a look at the picture in page one of this thread.

If you read the link to the Lewmar winch, you will see,  that a 3A fuse is inserted in the connection to the remote control. In the picture on page one, it is placed alongside the contactor (yellow).

My boat is manufactured in 2006, later models may have a different setup, but I doubt that the automatic curcuit breakers are changed to antique burn-over fuses?

The route of 12V from battery to anchorwinch is this:

Battery->Main curcuit breaker->70A Auto curcuit breaker->Contactor->Winch.

The contactor is  triggered by wire from the remote like this: White/yellow=up, white/black=down.

Here is a picture of the ADL in ine fuse from the barrery terminals.

There is no trip switch that i can see. ?

I have traced the wiring and cannot a trip. I fitted a new fuse and it now works. I think i shold fit an inline 50/70amp trip as a failsafe .

Thanks for the advice

Hi Derek

I see that Hanse has changed the fuse setup quite a bit., so I should not have been so stiff.

My anchorwinch is a Lewmar Pro Series 1000 (700W), and it has a 70A automatic current breaker, which has never been triggered. So the workload must be less than (12V*70A) = 840W.

In the Lewmar manual which has a link on page one of this thread, there is a diagram, which shows that the motor power is 700W, and the normal current draw is 50A, and the breaker/fuse is 70A.

As you write, maybe you can mount a 70 or 75A automatic current breaker, because changing the old-fashioned 80A fuse is time-consuming if you need the winch to work in a crucial situation.

B.R. Kjeld

Looks great!

How did you attach the shelf brckets?

Thank you,

As there is no access to the sides I made 2 brackets for the inside and Tig Welded 3 bolts on each bracket (A4 bolts and stainless steel plate)

Then I drilled three holes in each side of the anchor well. Through the 2 outer holes I inserted thin steel wire and lowered them into the void below the anchor well.

This area is accesseble from the forward cabin inspection hatch.

In this area the brackets are joined with the thin wires. The thin wires were wrapped around the threads on the 2 outermost bolts on the bracket.

Then the brackets were lifted up to their new position. The holes must be a bit larger than the bolts with wire.

The cables are using the same route.

Voila...

More info on this is at https://myhanse.com/anchor-windlass-control-wires_topic12005.html" rel="nofollow - https://myhanse.com/anchor-windlass-control-wires_topic12005.html

Brilliant! Thank you!

Had mine for 5 years and other than a change of battery in the remote it has been faultless.

Would be difficult to use the anchor single handed in poor conditions if I only had the wired control at the bow.

If the cable has a break, a repair of the break is much simpler than replacement.

But if no "break" is found, there may be a wiser way:

1) Download the H370/(same as H400) Cable list from: http://www.wesailhanse.se/370_manuals.htm" rel="nofollow - http://www.wesailhanse.se/370_manuals.htm

2) Read the manual for the winch: https://www.lewmar.com/Lewmar-Files/Manual_Pro-series-fish-manual-G3_B10414%20iss1.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://www.lewmar.com/Lewmar-Files/Manual_Pro-series-fish-manual-G3_B10414%20iss1.pdf

3) Check the 3A fuse near the contactor (see photo on page 1 of this thread)

4) If the fuse is OK, then there will be 12V+ in the green/grey (COMMON)1,5mm2 cable to the switch

5) When the switch is used, there will be 12V+ in the white/yellow cable (UP) or in the white/black cable (DOWN)

Back in 2006 when I recieved a brand  new Hanse 400, the winch did not work due to misplaced cables from the shipyard.

:Kjeld

P.S.: I assume, that the detachable switch is working, and that the three contact points in the anchor locker have been connected one after another by a piece of cable to assure this. (Only two contact points to be connected at one time).

The 70A automatic fuse has a little arm that falls down when triggered. I suppose that you already know, that this little arm has to be lifted before the winch works again?

If the cable should indeed need replacing, there is access from the forward cabin.

My question is how to remove the old alu bracket for the windlass and how to pull the cables fwd on the outside of the locker. I want to pull the between the locker and hull. Is the only way to make a new inspection hatch like I have fwd in the locker? Ideally I would like to locate the cables inside the front cabin. Anyone knows?

I experienced similar problems on my 2007 build 400e. It seems Hanse used un-tinned copper wire  for control wires to anchor locker. The wires I found were highly corroded for more than 1 metre. Instead of replacing the wires I installed a wireless remote I purchased on e-bay for $A 35. (approx 20 Euro). It has worked faultlessly so far after 1.5 years.

I have a Hanse 370e and wish to replace my original Lewmar windlass. I was very interested to see how you had fitted your Windlass. Looks great.Are you still happy with the result ?

Some questions if you don't mind , please.

1. What model windlass did you fit ?

2 Aprox distance from underside of mounting plate to bottom of anchor well. I carry 70m of 8mm chain attached to a Rocna 20kg anchor

3 What is the thickness aprox of the fibreglass you fitted the bracket to ? 

4 Any signs of the casing not being strong enough, or requiring additional strengthening ?

Thanks so much

Greg

I am on my way to the boat, then I can answer all your questions.

Perhaps we should continue on this thread alone?

The windlass is a:

Look forward to chatting

Kind regards

Greg

No need for details. Lets keep it as Q&A on this forum.

Perhaps you could Edit your post and delene your personal data. You risk more spam...

1. Lofrans x2 1000w

2. Underside of stainless steel plate holding the windlass is 60cm above my plastic mat that keeps the drainage clear.

The windlass has a huge enginehouse and from there is is 40 cm to the buttom. The chain drops freely to a big pile. No need for assistance to pile nicely. I only have 40meter 8mm.

3. The fiberglass is 5 mm. But with the brackets the force is distributed.

The eyebolt in the buttom of the anchorwell is also only in 5mm glassfiber.

4. No stress signs. But the lofrans Foot contacts are rubbish and makes rust. I have got some lewmar I want to install instead. But that's not an priority right now.

I always use a Snuffer and 15meters + 2x depth.

Thanks so much for the info and photos. Very much appreciated .Seems a good solution compared to the Lewmar set up I have. 

By the looks of it there would be room for 70m of 8mm chain without interfering with the windlass motor.

The rust could be caused by the Lofrans being Aluminium and the plate stainless steel. 

I guess a solid fibreglass plate attached to stainless steel brackets could work just as well ?

Any views Lewmar alternative ?

Thanks again

Greg.

PS Also looking at ways to protect my bow from the anchor 

I think I choose the lofrans because of price. But any vertical windlass would work. Eg. Quick or Lewmar.

The windlass house on the lofrans has some holes with watertight entrance for the thick wires. But these holes are not big so they will be a limiting factor on how long your windlass are able to be from the batteries.

I have a 3000w thruster so I daisy changed from that setup. 

Also the rubbish footpedals from lofrans had very thin wires and I remember having fear they would not be able to power the relay for the windlass. My controlbox withe the relay and wireless remote is placed just in front of the water tank.

Using Alu, stainless or glassfiber for the plate, I think is not important.

Will be going down to Greece from Norway in August where i keep my Hanse which i recently bought 

Returned last month from 6 great weeks. Busy getting the boat as I want it and addressing the anchor setup . Currently requires continuous shuffling the chain from under the Lewmar to the well.

I don’t have a bow thruster but hope the wires to the Lewmar can be extended to the new windlass. 

Greg 

Everyone seems to have a preference for either vertical or horizontal windlass. Because the windlass is in the anchor locker it seems the vertical offers little/no  advantage over horizontal. I will call the windlass a winch below , as it not fitted with a windlass drum, only a chain/rope gypsy.

When I purchased my 2007 built 400e it was previously retro-fitted with a Maxwell HRCFF-8  which is adequate for the ground tackle originally fitted...15kg Delta with 35 of 8mm chain, the other 55m is 14mm 3  strand rope. The location is probably similar to the original winch.

 I have  recently upgraded to 20kg Rocna Vulcan anchor and  14mm 8 plait rope 80m long.

Unfortunately whoever fitted the Maxwell winch introduced several problems.

1. The chain rode from bow roller to windlass is not aligned properly and pulls at a side angle onto the gypsy which has caused a lot of wear on the gypsy itself.

2. The winch is very close to the starboard wall of the anchor locker, making it very difficult to remove the side housing to service the winch. I.e. never serviced I think.

3. The anchor chain/rode drops onto the shallow floor area in the locker, which means the chain will not stack or store properly.

As a result of lack of those mistakes the winch is so worn, and missing key parts, so I decided to replace it with another Maxwell HRCFF-8 which is adequate for the task and has a useful "Free-fall" feature. Also in the replace

Having seen all the good ideas in this forum, I decided to also create a shelf to fit the winch into the right location, so it is aligned, also drops the chain into the deep part of the locker, and also has space around it for servicing.

What I have done is fabricate a very strong shelf from fibreglass. What I am doing differently is the shelf isONLY  bonded into the locker using  3M-5200. There are no fasteners.  The nominal shear capacity in this is about 10 Tonnes, which is a lot more than maximum load less than 1 tonnes.

I attach a picture showing the shelf in position.  Sorry about the blurry  finger in the pic. 

Hi. I would claim that the vertical type is superior because it grips the chain 180 degrees whereas the horizontal only grips the chain 90 degrees.

Would I change anything. Yes go for the more expensive all stainless winch. My alu gypsy is allready showing signs of corosion.

I also only have 40m chain because I want a light bow. But the 8mm chain is only 1.35kg per meter.

/H8jer

I agree that 180 degrees if wrap seems like an advantage.for gypsy wear. Alignment is another factor for gypsy wear  which is why I was very careful.  The previous gypsy I had was worn significantly because of misalignment. That was one reservation I have with vertical winch on H400,  the layout under deck means the chain is always misaligned.

About chain weight in the bow I agree completely. Hula has 35m of 8mm chain plus about 70m of nylon rope to enable anchoring in 20 metres water depth, or more, without too much bow weight.

Cheers

DJ

When I built my installation which is visible in the earlier posts, I was very carefully to get misalignment to a minimum. I mounted a mockup while I was trapped inside the anchor locker to have only 1 cm play between the winch and the underside of the locker-lit, while a person was standing on top. My wife was kind to let me out afterwards...

So the misalignment was well inside the allowed ranges in the manual.

But you are right misalignment could be an issue, if the winch is at the very front of the locker. Then horizontal is the only option but chain grip would be well below 90 degrees.

I placed mine as far to the rear, right up to where the well begins to be squared.

It seems you were very thorough. I was laughing to myself about you curled up in the anchor locker checking the clearance. I don't think I could fit in the locker.  I used lots of measurements and string lines instead.I allowed 15mm gap between lid and winch.

Like you I wanted the winch as high in the locker as possible to get most wrap on the gypsy, and also avoid the chain dragging over the lip of the locker like before. I was prepared to modify the locker lid a little bit to stop the chain damaging it with the chain so high, but it is OK...just touching.

It seems we are equally keen on making everything the best possible. In my case I think it comes from being a retired engineer...I might be retired but I can never stop thinking that way. Congratulations on your fine work...which prompted me to make by new mounting position too.

Cheers

DJ

I still have a Lewmar 1000pro windlass and one thing I discovered is that the gypsy they provide for G40 chain doesn’t handle that chain very well and the chain tends to jump from the windlass.   When I switched back to BBB chain I found it worked fine with either gypsy so as long as I have this windlass I’m sticking with BBB chain.  The links are a little shorter on the BBB chain which seems to help.

Owen

However, the standard location for the windlass is, IMO, dangerous.  Your comments will do much to inform the changes I should have made miles ago; many thanks again.

Iain