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Better than new lower bearing

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 371
Forum Description: 371 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10679
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:29
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Better than new lower bearing
Posted By: Koppiekrou
Subject: Better than new lower bearing
Date Posted: 24 March 2018 at 09:24
We had a problem with the lower bearing.

So the idea was to drop the rudder and change this bearing. First we got the boat high enough. Next step was to loosen the nuts of the top bearing. Then it should be easy to drop the rudder..... well not!

The rudder did not want to drop. Not a millimeter.. we took some wood and a hammer. Nothing happend.

Because we had to order a new bearing we decided to use some force and break or cut the bearing open. Now the rudder got some space and it could be removed. Yeah!

Next step is to order a new one from Jefa. It would be in the Netherlands within 5 days. So it looks that we can set sail early spring.






Replies:
Posted By: Koppiekrou
Date Posted: 10 April 2018 at 20:59
New ball bearing from Jefa in place. Seems that this was a simple problem... fixed!

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291 4Ever - 341 Eternal Flame and now a Hanse 371 '05 Karma - Shoal draft - 2 cabin - 40hp - Variprofile


Posted By: Carlosailfan
Date Posted: 11 April 2018 at 08:23
Hello,

May i ask some question, think we can learn something out of your case.

What was the root cause you decided this repair ?

What is the age of this rudder ? how many years already in the water ?

I see there is a lot of ( galvanic ) corrosion on the rudder stock, was the rudder connected with a ground wire ? the yellow green one ?

I cannot see the plastic ring between the rudder and the bearing, was this not in place ? This should be a spacer or distance keeper to prevent the rudder floating up and scratching the hull.

thanks,
/C


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Best regards
/C


Posted By: leif
Date Posted: 11 April 2018 at 13:56
I have also corrosion on rudder stock on Hanse 371 from 2003

Any ideas how to stop further corrosion ? ( and maybe to repair or secure rudder stock)? I see no wire




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Leif


Posted By: jeb
Date Posted: 11 April 2018 at 15:46
On my previous boat, a 371 from 2004, I removed the rudder. I also had problems getting it out. I found that the problem was the upper bearing that is of a non-self centering type. The problem is that the surface in the cookpit floor where the upper bearing is mounted is not 90 deg to the rudderpost. My solution was to loosen the 4 screws. The flexing of the sikaflex was then enougt for the bearing to be aligned. I would guess that there was some problems putting the rudder back as well!?

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Jesper
Hanse 400e


Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 11 April 2018 at 15:48
You do not need a plastic ring if there is a split metal ring placed just under the top bearing. This,in my mind, is a far better option as it is stronger. It does need a thin plastic washer between it & the top bearing though to stop metal to metal wear


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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 11 April 2018 at 17:59
There have been many discussions about the grounding of the shaft. Some models were grounded initially and then an advisory was issued to remove them. Have a look at this article. 
http://www.jefa.com/electro-f.htm

Note the advise: This is the reason that we can only advise to make sure the rudder shaft is completely electrically disconnected from the rest of the vessel. Often this connection in made without the awareness of the boat owner.


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Steve

Hanse 400e, #168


Posted By: Carlosailfan
Date Posted: 12 April 2018 at 06:42
To prevent corrosion i installed a zinc anode separately and only for the steering system, no other connections are on it !  Already after the first season it was really visible, the anode goes in solution !
I had a beginning of corrosion on different parts what stopped immediately.
As Rubato wrote above, look to the Jefa instructions, they understand the details Thumbs Up

So far my experience.

Happy sailing !!




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Best regards
/C


Posted By: Koppiekrou
Date Posted: 12 April 2018 at 21:49
Hi Carlo,

I had to replace the lower bearing because the rudder could not be moved of turned. Karma had been out of the water for the last two years. When water dries a small residue is left. This can cause problems. This is also visible in badrooms. Don’t know how to explain it.

Karma is from 2005 but as written above she has only been in the water in summertime and kept on the hard I wintertime. The last years she did not see any water at all.

It looks like corrosion but in fact it was a lot of antifouling. Just sandpapered it and it looks like new. Hardy no corrosion.

There was no plastic ring and it don’t belong there. This Jefa rudder is fixed with there nuts in the top bearing. Will take some pictures this weekend.





-------------
291 4Ever - 341 Eternal Flame and now a Hanse 371 '05 Karma - Shoal draft - 2 cabin - 40hp - Variprofile


Posted By: Carlosailfan
Date Posted: 13 April 2018 at 06:33
Hello,

thanks for the answers, gives me some more extra info and proof the rudder stock does not that easy gets affected  Thumbs Up

Best regards,
Carlo


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Best regards
/C


Posted By: leif
Date Posted: 13 April 2018 at 14:31
Hallo

Where did you install the zink anodes?

regards
leif


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Leif


Posted By: leif
Date Posted: 13 April 2018 at 14:35
Originally posted by Carlosailfan Carlosailfan wrote:

To prevent corrosion i installed a zinc anode separately and only for the steering system, no other connections are on it !  Already after the first season it was really visible, the anode goes in solution !
I had a beginning of corrosion on different parts what stopped immediately.
As Rubato wrote above, look to the Jefa instructions, they understand the details Thumbs Up

So far my experience.

Happy sailing !!



Hi where exactly did you install the zink anodes for the steering system?



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Leif


Posted By: leif
Date Posted: 13 April 2018 at 14:53
Originally posted by Rubato Rubato wrote:

There have been many discussions about the grounding of the shaft. Some models were grounded initially and then an advisory was issued to remove them. Have a look at this article. 
http://www.jefa.com/electro-f.htm

Note the advise: This is the reason that we can only advise to make sure the rudder shaft is completely electrically disconnected from the rest of the vessel. Often this connection in made without the awareness of the boat owner.

Thanks - how do you make sure rudder shaft is electrically disconnected ftrom rest?
Leif


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Leif


Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 13 April 2018 at 17:25
Look in the back storage area that is accessed from the rear berths. Make sure there isn't a green/yellow wire attached to the shaft or any other metal part that is electrically connected to the shaft.  Also check the same under the helm floorboard where the autopilot drive is. You could just use an ohm-meter to measure the resistance between the shaft and ground (any green/yellow wire).

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Steve

Hanse 400e, #168


Posted By: Carlosailfan
Date Posted: 13 April 2018 at 19:39
Hello Leif, 

next week i can post a picture of the Zinck anode, placed nearby the rudder and only for the rudder. No other connections are on it. 




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Best regards
/C


Posted By: Rubato
Date Posted: 13 April 2018 at 21:10
Originally posted by Carlosailfan Carlosailfan wrote:

Hello Leif, 

next week i can post a picture of the Zinck anode, placed nearby the rudder and only for the rudder. No other connections are on it. 



Just wondering how you electrically connected it to the rudder?


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Steve

Hanse 400e, #168



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