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Grey water pump

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints and Tips
Forum Name: 575/588
Forum Description: 575/588 Hints, Tips and News
URL: http://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10862
Printed Date: 13 May 2021 at 11:05
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Grey water pump
Posted By: Black Diamond
Subject: Grey water pump
Date Posted: 29 June 2018 at 11:33
In the time since last August,  I've gone thru 2 of the JABSCO 50880 grey water pumps.   I've now got 2 spares on the boat, as well as 2 spare water witch switches.    Has anyone else gone thru these pumps quickly?    

We are pretty careful about sink debris getting into the grey water tank.   Its not getting clogged.   It just stops working and the pump gets very hot as its still drawing power but has apparently seized.

I'm wondering if a more rugged unit would be better?   We don't live aboard, but use the boat quite a bit and can stay on it for weeks at a time.







http://www.myhanse.com/new_topic_form.asp?FID=35" rel="nofollow -


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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI



Replies:
Posted By: Sea-U
Date Posted: 29 June 2018 at 11:54
I have used this pump for shower drain for 5 years. Over 50 showers a year and no trouble.

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Sea-U is a 370e #532 located SW Norway


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 29 June 2018 at 14:42
Rick, 
Our UK warranty dealer - Inspiration Marine Group supplied us with standard float switches instead of the Hanse supplied switches which IMG said were failing and causing the pumps to stay on and seize. We changed the switches over and have not had any problems for 4 years liveaboard. We had one pump fail before we changed the switches over.
 


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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Caribbean and will head across the Pacific early 2023


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 30 June 2018 at 00:45
The switches (Water Witch) are fine.    The pump just seizes and gets hot.   Twice so far.     I have spares and since its a new boat, Hanse and my dealer is covering the cost of the part, but if one more goes bad I may look into alternative pumps.

50 showers on our boat happens in a few weeks, not 5 years..  Between my wife and I, my daughter and her husband,  as well as sink and occasional washer/dryer use, these need to be hardy.

Are your's 24V or 12V?   Maybe a bad run of 12V pumps?


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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: Relentless
Date Posted: 09 August 2018 at 12:46
I just replaced the foreward pump and I can see the aft pump was replaced by the previous owner.
I took the failed pump apart and found the windings in the motor overheated and shorted. The nameplate on the pump specs to be fused at 10amps but my boat has 30amp fuses in place!

Rick, what fuses do you have?



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Rob
s/y Relentless
2015 Hanse 575
Hailing: Newport, RI
Currently: St Maarten


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 09 August 2018 at 13:07
Rob,

We had 15 amp fuses for our shower pumps which I replaced with 10 amp fuses per the pump manufacturers recommendations/directions. 


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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Caribbean and will head across the Pacific early 2023


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 10 August 2018 at 01:11
10 amp fuses.    I found the wrong fuses used early on and changed them.

This isn't a fusing issue in my mind.  Its a usage issue.   If someone takes a long shower, or if you put a lot of gray water into the tank without giving the pump a "rest" somewhere in there,  I find that it shuts down for heat reasons and then will eventually restart.    Over time,  I think this problem eventually fries the pump.   Not sure if its hardy enough for the job.






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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: marcopone
Date Posted: 11 August 2018 at 10:16
Very strange.
On my H575 I modified the installation of the pump in the ownerís cabin.
Often it was not priming, it was sucking air from the tank and could not pass it through.
Because of this it was running idle for long time.
I also modified the level switch so that some water remain on the bottom of the tank.

For the aft pump I installed a plastic pipe from the tank to the motor space to take out air.
I noted that sometime the water from shower was not going in the tank because air could not escape from tank.


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 11 August 2018 at 15:51
Its interesting.   The aft grey water box has only had to have its switch replaced (water witch), but twice.  The forward grey water box on our boat has been replaced twice, but the same switch is still there.

As my wife and I are on the boat a lot,    the forward one sees our showers as well as the galley and forward sink usage.  The aft one sees the dishwasher and the washing machine use,  but also showers and aft sink when our daughter and her husband come to visit. 

Its more annoying than problematic.    I still think its not robust enough for the job, but I cannot seem to find an easy replacement that would be an upgrade from what is there.



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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: boomjack
Date Posted: 12 August 2018 at 07:16
On my side, I had this problem the first year and replaced the pump once, then I had it a second time and replaced again the pump, but this time I installed a different switch inside which authorize the pump to work only when the tank is effectively full of water. For me the problem was that with soap and sun cream residus, the contact with the previous swicth was permanent conducting the pump to work continuously and overheating before dying. Since this modification it works perfectly.


Posted By: pideas
Date Posted: 13 August 2018 at 11:52
can you name the new switch exactly? I have the same Problem on the Moody .Thanks!

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Sailing is a Passion, ex Hanse 445, now Moody DS 54



H445#74


Posted By: boomjack
Date Posted: 13 August 2018 at 11:59
It is simple floating switch, I don t remember the name, but I guess any simple floating switch will do the job!
best


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 14 August 2018 at 06:57
Pideas,

Following is an image of the Johnson BP Switch and SS mounting plate supplied by Inspiration Marine Group (our warranty dealer in UK)  as a replacement for the Whale switch which apparently has a history of failure. Just unscrew the Whale switch and the SS plate with the Johnson switch attached can be screwed onto the same place as the Whale switch was. The mounting plate is about 5.7 inches wide and 3.1 inches long. The mounting hole centers is about 3.15 inches and the holes are .22 inch in diameter. In case you can't read the part number it is AS 888 part #26014 (US).    



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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Caribbean and will head across the Pacific early 2023


Posted By: Relentless
Date Posted: 29 October 2020 at 12:56
Hi Wayne,

My whale switch has failed ( BE 9003)  and before I replace it with the same switch, I would like to see if I can get the setup that you described.   Are you still using it?  The post was writting a couple years ago now. 

I'm also in the Caribbean and not sure if I can find a supplier for it....


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Rob
s/y Relentless
2015 Hanse 575
Hailing: Newport, RI
Currently: St Maarten


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 29 October 2020 at 15:14
Rob, 
We are still using the same switches as neither have failed. Occasionally we have the owners sump pump stick on but I just lift the floor hatch and give the sump box a slap and it stops. The owners sump pump gets a lot of use because we are on the boat 24/7/365. Every few months I remove the sump lid and clean the switch which helps.


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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Caribbean and will head across the Pacific early 2023


Posted By: Pzucchel
Date Posted: 29 October 2020 at 16:51
My switch failed and replaced it with an identical one from an Italian brand I forgot that has hysteresis embedded in the switch. No problems to the pump that keeps working OK... 

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Hanse588#55


Posted By: Relentless
Date Posted: 13 November 2020 at 21:41
Just finished installing the new float switch.   The local fab shop here in St Maarten cut a couple pieces of stainless steel to make the bracket out of.  The whole job only took about an hour and works nicely!!

Thank you to everyone for putting this information online!!   Itís a great resource!

Grey water float switch


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Rob
s/y Relentless
2015 Hanse 575
Hailing: Newport, RI
Currently: St Maarten


Posted By: Wayne's World
Date Posted: 13 November 2020 at 22:26
Rob, 

Are you still in Sint Maarten? We are planning on heading there by the end of Nov. Currently in Curacao.


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Wayne W
Cruising, currently in the Caribbean and will head across the Pacific early 2023


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 13 November 2020 at 23:30
Rob,     nice pics.    I'm wondering what drove you to change the grey water pump switch?    I've replaced the pump twice (fore and aft) but the switch has only gone once.   It was a $29.00 spare
and pretty easy to replace.

Rick



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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: Relentless
Date Posted: 14 November 2020 at 12:59
Wayne,  We are living in a condo here on SXM.  Drop me a line when you get here.  Would love to meet you!!

We hope to get to other islands for short mini cruises...perhaps 1 or 2 weeks at a time.  Mainly the Virgin Islands when friends and family come to visit...but always returning to our home base here in SXM.




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Rob
s/y Relentless
2015 Hanse 575
Hailing: Newport, RI
Currently: St Maarten


Posted By: Relentless
Date Posted: 14 November 2020 at 13:07
Rick,  Iíve had one pump failure and one switch failure.   It seems that the switch failure is pretty common, so when my failed, I decided to go with the simple float switch instead of the original electronic one.   Now that you mentioned it, you are right.  The electronic switch isnít terribly expensive.  Perhaps $10 more than the float switch.   I wonder if the float switch is a good choice....because it might constantly pulse the pump on and off if the tank is sloshing.  Where the electronic switch has the time delay....  Iím guessing this is why it was used in the first place.  

So....I donít know why I really made the change...haha!   I had to replace it ...and just thought Iíd go in a different direction.    Probably because I was looking for a project....Iím retired and bored!!!    Haha!


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Rob
s/y Relentless
2015 Hanse 575
Hailing: Newport, RI
Currently: St Maarten


Posted By: Deep River
Date Posted: 02 February 2021 at 18:42
hi,

I had this problem with the grey tank discharge pump this weekend , technician said that its gone and I need a new one , all the basins , showers are going into the grey tank and if it is broken you can not discharge manually, this is crab .Will I carry a spare pump with me ?

It was broken and I understood it when the water came out from the galley sink.

Not good , need a solution.


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 02 February 2021 at 18:50
I carry 2 spare fresh water pumps,   2 spare grey water pumps, and 2 spare grey water pump switches.  The pumps are simple to replace.      I do one every 18 months or so, but we use showers and the water system (like washer/dryer) quite a bit.  

There isn't much of an option to grey water tanks unless you want to change the entire design.   To me, its pretty simple to just swap it.



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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: marcopone
Date Posted: 02 February 2021 at 19:09
I agree, I also have a couple of spare pumps on board.
In my case this pump has never failed, 8 years of use.
I suspect the cause could be the sensor : rather often it cumulate much dirt on it and it switch the pump always on.
If you do not notice the noise or if nobody is on board it can stay on for days.


Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 02 February 2021 at 20:48
I agree with marcopone. No failures on my pumps but I have on occasion heard the pumps running for no reason. Sometimes for very long and they got very hot.  I would suspect that left long enough, they would fail. I make it a habit to keep the sensor switches clean as they will engage the pumps if there is build up on the contacts. Chenging to float switches might bring new problems of there own, so a bit maintenance is easy to do instead.

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Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY


Posted By: Deep River
Date Posted: 04 February 2021 at 12:02
Originally posted by marcopone marcopone wrote:

I agree, I also have a couple of spare pumps on board.
In my case this pump has never failed, 8 years of use.
I suspect the cause could be the sensor : rather often it cumulate much dirt on it and it switch the pump always on.
If you do not notice the noise or if nobody is on board it can stay on for days.
Sensors needs to be cleaned , dirt on the sensors closes the circuit and lets the pump run. Not a too much work :)


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 04 February 2021 at 16:34
One driver is that when the shower drain gets clogged (hair, etc..) (and only a tickle is going into the grey water box) it can work very hard and overheat.  It will run for a few minutes,   heat up and have its thermal shut-off occur,  cool down,  start up again, and repeat this process for 10 minutes.    All to do the work that it can do in 30 seconds if things were clear and flowed freely.  That burns things out just like an impeller pump running dry might.

My $0.02



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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: marcopone
Date Posted: 04 February 2021 at 18:15
this never happened to me.
if the shower discharge is much cloggged and little water is flowing to the gray water tank, then the pump will stay on for a very short time until the tank is empty and then will stay idle until the level will slowly raise again.
this is not a critical condition for the pump.
besides if the clogging is so severe you will notice very soon that the water is raising above the floor.
in my case just one discharge cleaning is necessary every 2 months.


Posted By: Arcadia
Date Posted: 04 February 2021 at 18:40
Rick. I donít get it either. How does low level in the tank cause the pump to run excessively? Also, the discharge pump is a diaphragm pump with internal check valves. It wonít overheat by running dry the way an impeller pump would. However, if debris gets lodged in the check valve, it can cause the pump to run without actually pumping. Another reason to keep thing clean!

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Leon / ARCADIA
2018 Hanse 588
Sag Harbor, NY


Posted By: Black Diamond
Date Posted: 04 February 2021 at 18:52
Its not running dry.   Its just running,  shutting off, running, shutting off, running, shutting off, and taking 10 times as long to do something.    My guess is this has a lot to do with heat build up and eventually it fries..







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Rick
S/V Black Diamond
Hanse 575 Build #192, Hull# 161
Newport, RI


Posted By: Fendant
Date Posted: 05 February 2021 at 00:53
Same here, my shower pump goes directly into the  grey water tank. All other drains go into a collector box with a float switched pump ( Sahara 5000 )  before being pumped into the grey water tank.  I carry 2 spare pumps. The power supply now has a quick connector with a female plug. All spares have the corresponding male one. Changing the pump takes less than 2 mins.
BTW as part of boat maintenance after launching in spring the pump and the collector are cleaned for the season. Nevertheless at least one pump failure in the season, although we avoid bread crumbs or alike to go down the drain .


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Frank


Posted By: marcopone
Date Posted: 05 February 2021 at 08:43
This collector box is not present on my H575.
Everything goes directly in the grey water tank other outside.

It seems a further step that might create new problems.



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