I have some questions about euro spec 575's electrical system.  Black Diamond has already answered my questions regarding US spec boats, but there is a big chance I am going to buy a euro spec 575 and wanted to understand the electrical system.

4) Are the outlets running 230v or 110v?

Any other details you can offer on the euro spec electrical system is much appreciated.

Cheers,

-Marc

In answer to your questions- based on our 2014 575 with 230V 50HZ system-

1. two 16A  inlets are provided one for aircond and the other general systems.

2. All systems run off the generator. You may need to watch what you are running because you may have a great power requirement than the generator can supply depending on the options you have onboard. I think there are now two generator options 8KVa and 10KVa. We have the 10KVa.

3. In general, the items which run off the inverter are - GPO, Gallery, TV, wine fridge. All other items do not run off the inverter - eg Air cond, washer dryer, water heater.

4. All outlets (GPO) are supplying 230V 50HZ and the standard socket is the European 2 " round" pin.

5. Any appliances supplied as options are 230V 50HZ eg coffee machine, washer dryer, dishwasher, TV etc.

6. All items onboard can be run off shore power with the aircond having its' own 16A inlet. Again you may need to juggle what equipment you have on so you don't overload the shore power.

7. There is not an amp meter supplied for either the generator or shore power so you can see what amps you are drawing.  

If you are eventually considering taking your 575 back to the US I would think your resale value would be less if your boat was 230V 50HZ. I would expect it to be much more difficult to sell. It is not a simple option to change a 230V 50HZ set up boat to be 110V 60HZ boat. The cabling, colours and sizes are different for the EU/US systems, plugs are different but easy to change, the generator could be changed over but at a substantial coast I would think, inverter/chargers would need to be changed, not sure about the aircond, certainly components like the RW supply pump would need to be changed and possibly the FCUs etc would need to be changed. Some items like the TV may be "multi voltage" and would be OK. 

If you were taking your 575 back to the US I would get it built to the US spec. You would need to bring any appliances with you from the US for a Europe delivery and "holiday". This way all your onbaord systems and plugs etc would be 110V 60HZ. Your only issue then would be shore power which could be handled with having a step down converter (230V to 110V) and a frequency converter 50HZ to 60 HZ) fitted. You can get a "shore power conditioner" but these seem mainly aimed at larger vessels (super yachts) and are large and heavy and expensive. These "conditioners" are designed to be able to take on any voltage/HZ/phase combination and supply your boats requirement. These do a lot more than you would be after. The pain of having to deal with the shore power issue whilst in Europe would out way the problems of having a 230V 50HZ boat back in the US. Just my 2 cents. Maybe some other US based forumites have some input!

At the moment, that 110v Combimaster is receiving 110v in (checked at the Combimaster) but it is not passing through to outlets, nor do I think it is charging though the charging light is on.  Oh, and my generator decided that it wants to overheat, so that doesn't help me much.  With a power hungry boat, I'm trying to figure out my options.

1.) I'm going to replace the (I think) failed Combimaster, but that will take a few days

2.) I didn't have EU shorepower cables when I took possession, but I've got the Marinco 32A unterminated cord coming.   But that doesn't seem to solve my US problem.

3.) What do EU boats visiting the US or Caribbean do?

There really is only one proper way to prepare the EU 230v / 50hz boat for US 250v / 60hz shorepower and that is an isolation transformer.  While it is technically possible to produce a cord that does what you want, it will short circuit the shorepower breaker.  While the short circuiting could be bypassed, it would carry enormous risk to the boat and its grounding.  I don't even want to mention it in case someone decides to try.  Don't do it: for your safety, the safety of your boat and all its appliances, and the safety of your marina.

I will look into the isolation transformer and will post an update with what I decide.

I realize that you have a bigger boat with more electrical load but my 458 was delivered with a US setup. Mine is very similar to what Leon describes. I have a standard US 50 amp shore power plug which sends 240v to a Victron 7000w isolation transformer which then passes 240v into the boat. That 240v is split to two different busses. One feeds 3 air conditioners, a circulation pump and an aux breaker which are all 240v and are all only available on shore power or generator. The other bus sends 240v to a 240v MasterVolt Mass/Combi inverter/charger which passes through 240v to the panel for icemaker, dishwasher, washer/dryer and water heater. That 240v out from the inverter also goes into a Victron 240/120 transformer which sends out 120v to the electrical outlets, microwave and TV.

I have been considering replacing the Mass/Combi and Victron 240/120 transformer with a single Victron MultiPlus II 2x120. That unit takes 240v or 120v in and will pass through 120v always and 240v when shore or generator 240v is available. Essentially that would replace two boxes with one. The only negative I see for me is that the water heater would not be available on battery power which would be fine I think. The water could alternately be heated by running the engine and heating it through heat transfer or running the generator and heating it electrically. You may have other considerations like a washer/dryer to be powered which, in this scheme, would require the generator running.

I’ve been learning a lot about my electrical system lately and in particular, the wiring diagrams.

Is that relay “K1” on the diagram? I’ve gotten better at interpreting these but it sure would help if there were more labels. I’m having a hard time remembering the symbols from college EE class back in 1980😵‍💫.