I'm now 2 years into my 575 and very much like the boat.    I've done a number of upgrades from solar panels to watermaker to accumulator tanks, but only a few relating to the seaworthiness and safety of the vessel.   While I think its a well built vessel,  there are some aspects that I do not like and intend to address. 

For example,   I don't like the way Hanse does thru-hulls, with a plastic thru-hull connecting to a brass ball valve.   Enough torque and you could snap the plastic.   Supposedly compliant with CE but clearly a cost oriented solution with the number of thru-hulls on the boat.    I'm replacing these in two waves of work with proper, bronze, 1 piece seacocks.    Until then (and probably after) I have wooden plugs tied to each seacock in case of trouble.     I've also added raw water strainers to the air conditioning raw water input as this used to clog all the time with eel grass.  

Another example is the lack of a dual racor-like fuel filer allowing you to switch filters while motoring. It also provides a fuel polishing system for the tanks.   I had this in a prior boat, but have been struggling with where to put it on the 575.  Many of the locations will have lift pressure issues.  I'm convinced it can be done, but it hasn't been a priority just yet.

For another, we added a Pfifertex barrier across the stern gate lines.   We also upgraded the pelican hooks for a better connection.

I'm interested in what other 575 owners have done to their boats to increase the safety,  maintainability, or rough weather characteristics of the boat.   Not so much the cosmetics, or things like a "stock of spares" for water pumps, impellers, that sort of thing.   More things that keep the ocean out, you on board, or allow you to do something easily that might otherwise be a difficult job (like the fuel filter draining underway)..

We are coming up to 6 years with our 575 and have covered around 20,000 nm in that period. we are about to start our crossing over to the Caribbean with the first leg - Canary's to Cape Verde Isl to start in about 2 days time. A lot of the following is pretty standard stuff.

The only things we have done to improve safety are-

1. Fit Dyneema lines in place of the SS safety lines on the aft and side gates. This was also partly to make these lines easier to handle when in port.

2. Fitted a per pre filter to the fuel system. This has a glass bowl which can be easily checked for fouling. I also fitted a drain cock to the standard Volvo pre filter which originally had a hex screw-in plug.

3. Fitted a manual bilge pump in the forepeak where there was no pump.

4. Upgraded the standard bilge pump in the center bilge area with a higher capacity and high duty cycle unit. We carry a spare for the two electric pumps on board. 

5. We lengthened the "roaming" bilge pump suction line as the original one could not reach the forepeak. 

6. For any longer trip and overnight trips we fit jack stays from the aft cleats to the forward cleats. We also fit a "T" shaped jack stay in the cockpit from the companion way to the aft and outboard of each steering position.

7. We fitted the usual dive knives by each steering position and one to the vang.

8. We always wear Spinlock infaltable lifejackets/harness's when on long trips, overnight or if the weather is strong. We have recently fitted the RescueME MOB1 AIS beacons to each jacket. We also replaced the "pylon" lights on these jackets as they have a bad habit of not working. We fitted SOLAS water activated lights in place of the pylon lights. We also fitted two of the water activated Spinlock Lume On lights which shine through the bladder and make the wearer more visible at night in the water. 

9. We originally had the Spinlock safety tethers but have now changed to the Kong double safety tethers (one leg normal length and one short- both elasticated) with a quick release. The carabiners on the Kong are much stronger and I like the idea of the quick release rather than trying to find the pathetic safety knife on the lifejacket. 

10. Again for the longer crossings where we are out of AIS/VHF range we have fitted a Iridiun GO with auto hourly positional updates. We could also take the Iridium Go with us in case of abandoning ship.

11. We of course have a 6 person liferaft on board. Recently serviced for the next crossing.

12. We have always had a EPIRB onboard. At home in OZ any boat of any size , as well as jet skis etc which go further then 2nm off the coast must have an EPIRB. 

13. We have an electronic flare onboard which although does not replace the need for conventional pyrotechnic flares would be much safer in a liferaft. 

14. Although not strictly safety equipment we use Bluetooth headsets when anchor or more importantly when working up the mast.

15 When working up the mast I always use a second halyard with a fall arrester/desender.

16. Training - we have both completed commercial safety at sea training course like the STCW which included safety drills, firefighting and liferaft use (in a indoor facility which has a wave tank, wind and can be blacked out - so fairly realistic). 

17. Apart from the standard 3 x 2kg dry chem fire extinguishers we have also fitted 2 x 2kg CO2 extinguishers and a fire blanket. 

18. if it comes to cutting a broken rig ways we have a giant pair of shears, 2 hacksaws with 4 spare blades taped to each and a cordless 18V angle grinder fitted with a cut off wheel. I have tried the shears and they are great for small cable but would be difficult to use on our rigging. The hacksaws will get the job done. The angle grinder is very quick to cut through any size rigging.  

19. Again, mainly for the longer crossings we have Panasonic Tough note book with GPS, nav software and world wide charts. So if the boats normal nav equipment went entirely US we can use the note book which is waterproof and shock proof etc to a MIL Spec. 

20. It probably goes without saying but a schedule of replacement, servicing, testing, inspection and upgrading (where applicable) of equipment is part of the safety on board. 

I agree that the Hanse option of fitting the "plastic" through hulls with brass valves is probably not the best I would probably opt to replace the valves with the matching "plastic" valves rather than go back to all metal.  

Good to hear you are still enjoying your 575 as are we.   

1. Fit Dyneema lines in place of the SS safety lines on the aft and side gates. This was also partly to make these lines easier to handle when in port.

2. Fitted a per pre filter to the fuel system. This has a glass bowl which can be easily checked for fouling

. I also fitted a drain cock to the standard Volvo pre filter which originally had a hex screw-in plug.

3. Fitted a manual bilge pump in the forepeak where there was no pump.

4. Upgraded the standard bilge pump in the center bilge area with a higher capacity and high duty cycle unit. We carry a spare for the two electric pumps on board.

5. We lengthened the "roaming" bilge pump suction line as the original one could not reach the forepeak.

6. For any longer trip and overnight trips we fit jack stays from the aft cleats to the forward cleats. We also fit a "T" shaped jack stay in the cockpit from the companion way to the aft and outboard of each steering position.

7. We fitted the usual dive knives by each steering position and one to the vang.

8. We always wear Spinlock infaltable lifejackets/harness's when on long trips, overnight or if the weather is strong. We have recently fitted the RescueME MOB1 AIS beacons to each jacket. We also replaced the "pylon" lights on these jackets as they have a bad habit of not working. We fitted SOLAS water activated lights in place of the pylon lights. We also fitted two of the water activated Spinlock Lume On lights which shine through the bladder and make the wearer more visible at night in the water.

9. We originally had the Spinlock safety tethers but have now changed to the Kong double safety tethers (one leg normal length and one short- both elasticated) with a quick release. The carabiners on the Kong are much stronger and I like the idea of the quick release rather than trying to find the pathetic safety knife on the lifejacket.

10. Again for the longer crossings where we are out of AIS/VHF range we have fitted a Iridiun GO with auto hourly positional updates. We could also take the Iridium Go with us in case of abandoning ship.

* I like this idea.    I was just going to get a SatPhone for general use as well when sailing offshore.   That and finally get an SSB (don't have one now). 

11. We of course have a 6 person liferaft on board. Recently serviced for the next crossing.

12. We have always had a EPIRB onboard. At home in OZ any boat of any size , as well as jet skis etc which go further then 2nm off the coast must have an EPIRB.

13. We have an electronic flare onboard which although does not replace the need for conventional pyrotechnic flares would be much safer in a liferaft.

14. Although not strictly safety equipment we use Bluetooth headsets when anchor or more importantly when working up the mast.

15 When working up the mast I always use a second halyard with a fall arrester/desender.

16. Training - we have both completed commercial safety at sea training course like the STCW which included safety drills, firefighting and liferaft use (in a indoor facility which has a wave tank, wind and can be blacked out - so fairly realistic).

17. Apart from the standard 3 x 2kg dry chem fire extinguishers we have also fitted 2 x 2kg CO2 extinguishers and a fire blanket.

18. if it comes to cutting a broken rig ways we have a giant pair of shears, 2 hacksaws with 4 spare blades taped to each and a cordless 18V angle grinder fitted with a cut off wheel. I have tried the shears and they are great for small cable but would be difficult to use on our rigging. The hacksaws will get the job done. The angle grinder is very quick to cut through any size rigging. 

19. Again, mainly for the longer crossings we have Panasonic Tough note book with GPS, nav software and world wide charts. So if the boats normal nav equipment went entirely US we can use the note book which is waterproof and shock proof etc to a MIL Spec.

20. It probably goes without saying but a schedule of replacement, servicing, testing, inspection and upgrading (where applicable) of equipment is part of the safety on board.

I agree that the Hanse option of fitting the "plastic" through hulls with brass valves is probably not the best I would probably opt to replace the valves with the matching "plastic" valves rather than go back to all metal. 

Sorry...   not sure what you are pointing out:

That the 25MM flare gun is illegal in many parts of the world?

That the adapter that converts 25MM to 12gauge shells is illegal?

That you think I have a 12GA shotgun capable of firing flares?  :-)

if one of the first two, then that's good to know.  I was not aware.

Thanks for the information on the 25MM.    I admit I was not aware and I'll keep that in mind.It varies in the US.    In the "Commonwealth of Taxachusetts" (where I am a resident) it is becoming increasingly difficult and you need a "license to carry" (which I have) after undergoing background checks, interviews and mandatory training., In Vermont (home of Bernie Sanders, Ben & Jerry's and numerous socialist state policies,  its "open carry".   Without a permit, I can strap a gun to my waist and walk down the street and into the supermarket.   California and NY are restrictive,  Texas, Utah, Arizona and other states much more open.

Your location says "Switzerland".    Isn't this where people take assault weapons home with them from their mandatory military service?  :-)

My issue is not with the individual components used, but with the assembly as complete.     Someone would have to work very hard to prove that a ball valve screwed onto a thru-hull is as strong as a flanged, one-piece, seacock.    From my perspective,   I don't want the act of "persuading" a reluctant ball valve to open to snap the thru-hull below it.  

See video..  while I'm not sure about his numbers..  I agree with the conclusion...  the part that is similar to the HANSE seacock design (although they show Bronze) is starting at 4:56 into the video.   About 10 other sources (including Seacock companies) validate this concern.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOF0uABrN5c&t=414s" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lOF0uABrN5c&t=414s

FWIW

So Peter on Sea Rambler suggested I look at TruDesign.  

I did a little research on the TruDesign web site and found its an interesting option.    My core issue is that the screwing of the ball valve onto the thru-hull without spreading the load out could cause the whole assembly to snap when you need to "persuade" the ball valve to open.   Snapping would (by simple physics) happen at the lowest point below the ball valve and cause a "problem".

If the thru-hulls in my 575 *ARE* TruDesign, then they seem to have recognized this problem and provided a collar which spreads the load and effectively locks the ball valve in place.  In other words, it can handle the additional torque.   

This IMPLIES the following:

1.  I don't need to replace the thru-hulls and spend the money for new glass work and bronze thru hulls. 

2.  I can simply screw the TruDesign ball valves on top of the existing thru hull (while its out of the water of course) and install the collar to spread the load.  

3.  The  only parts that need to be replaced would be the ball valve and hose barb, with the purchase of the collar for load spreading.

4.  it has the additional value of not being susceptible to bonding or corrosion issues.

I'll be researching this further in the next couple of weeks.   See picture.

I didn’t wish to make acpublic statement re research I had also made as sometimes comments get blown out of proportion. I had found out the a Hanse sank in Australia due to sea cock issues and hence sought information what Hanse did as a result of the incident prior to going ahead with purchase.

They (Hanse Germany) advised they changed to Trudesign for thru hul component following the incident  but made no comment re the sea cocks I noted they have a clause in the Hanse manuals re change around 5 years so the use of brass sea cocks in theory would be ok.ie

 given ordinary  brass  life expectancy. However on our boat they have the better” brass with the zinc component and at this stage I am now thinking that I will not replace them but keep an eye on them

I spoke with owner of a 55 foot Bavarian yacht a few years older than ours who in the words of his insurers “ has never ever happened before” he had 4 seacocks ALL collapse at same time - the boat didn’t sink but was saved from sinking by numerous people helping with issue in diving under to seal openings whilst they then shifted to nearby travel lift -  boat was their holiday/ live aboard boat in the med before they sailed to Australia.

The issue re sea cocks becoming jammed is very real based on real life laziness of owners of which I am a bit guilt as I do not regularly open and close them monthly to ensure their smooth operation.

I hired boat moulds and laboured with a boat builder to complete a 39 fort yacht in early 1980s and he talked me into fitting composire  fittinngs due to his concerns with metal corrosion that he had seen during his life time- he was adamant at the time to close them each time I was off the boat and they will be smooth portion always.

The salesman who sold us our boat confirmed the laziness Re the shutting of valves when I asked him why he didn’t turn the sea cocks on when we went on board for a test and he simply said that over the many years he had been selling boats you could count on one hand when owners were specific re closing / opening sea cocks.

So perhaps if we regularly turn the sea clocks off and on we may never have issue of them stem breaking.

kind regards from a very smoky country

 

1. Bow thruster.   Mine was damaged during the passage from Hampton Va to Antigua.  We had a few rough days pounding upwind and suddenly got an alarm at the helm from the bow thruster.  We couldn't clear the alarm.  After arriving in Antigua, we found that the linear actuator that deploys and retracts the bow thruster was damaged. The internal nut on the acme screw was stripped and the actuator shaft was loose....able to slide in and out.   The bow thruster was down for several days on the passage.  The door was gone as well.   I think the bow thruster was swinging loose as we pounded into waves.    I don't know if the door failed first...or if the actuator went first.  I don't know why they failed either.   Underway, I wasn't sure what happened and only had suspicions.  It wasn't until we got into a harbor before I knew for sure. 

Parts are ordered from Hanse and Quick...

Im thinking about making a rigid link that I'll put in place of the actuator when I am on passage.   And/or lashing the bow thruster in place.   I suspect that the pounding damaged the actuator...then allowed the door to slam into the hull...until it broke away. 

 

2.  Fridge, freezer, and dish washers.   On passage, this was a problem when the boat was heeling hard. With the freezer and fridge filled for a 14day passage, they are very heavy!  At times, it nearly took 2 people to deal with opening them.   If they are loose in rolling seas, they can slam open and slam closed with enough force to damage the drawer slides or even rip them out of the wall.  I have installed straps with buckles to secure them.  It's not ideal...and I need to rethink this.

 

3. Self tacking jib.   I love it!    But find that it is not practical for downwind sailing.   Especially in rolling seas where it can slam from side to side.  I also feel that it doesn't provide good sail shape when the apparent wind is aft of beam.  The foot is sheeted to close to the centerline of the hull.   So, I rig a preventer on the traveler and will sometimes rig the jib sheet to a block on the bullworks outside the lifelines. 

 

 

Fuel filter:   I raised mine as high as I could in its original position under the companionway steps.  This provided more clearance below the unit for a ball valve and catch can to drain the bowl.  When needed, I can easily open the ball valve and drain the bowl.  It only takes a minute or two and this practice has become as routine as checking the oil and sea water pumps.

 

 

I love the 575!!!  It is fast and comfortable!   A real pleasure to sail offshore!!