|
First thing that you need to do is disconnect the electrics. To do this you need to drop part of the headlining. First remove the central light fitting which involves 2 screws & it will drop down on its wires. Then down the middle there is a cover moulding that needs careful removal to avoid chipping it. Store it carefully. The aft edge of the forward port panel needs to be released to enable the corner to drop 150mm. release the screws nearest the corner, but do not touch the curtain rail etc or the hatch trim.
Disconnect the wires from the connectors on the mast side . This means that you can carefully withdraw them up the pipe. I find it helps to tape the ends together & straighten them out a bit to stop them snagging. Temporarily stick a couple of screws back in the headlining. Note the size of the white caps as you will almost certainly loose some and a packet of spares will always come in handy. Remove all the running rigging & the boom. Make sure that you slacken the bottlescrews before you go to the crane. Remove any protective tapes from rigging. I do not use tape I use plastic tubes to protect oneself from sprit pin ends. Straighten the split pins so they can be removed easily when ready. The final release will be the bottom of the bottle screw from the chain plate. Do not take them off the screws otherwise it is a fiddly job putting them back & you need them back on to put the mast back up. It is awkward trying to re locate threads into bottle screws but easy to locate forks onto chain plates.
Nothing annoys handlers more than waiting for owners to slacken the rig whilst they stand in the cold waiting. If you want put a piece of tape around the threads so that when you re tighten you have an indication of where they were when you had them before you slackened them, it does help.
The actual fitting of the strop etc should be easy enough for the crane handlers so I will not describe. I have done loads at our sailing club & every one is different. Just make sure that you are carefull not to kink the furler
When you lay the mast down do not just let the furler droop on to the floor. obtain a length of 40 * 40 timber about 1.5M long. Poke it up inside the mast with the end sticking out & tie the furler to that.
Then go to the top of the mast & use duct tape to fix a length of 50 * 25 batten to the mast extending past the aerial. tape the aerial to it. even if you remove the aerial you still have to protect the windex etc & you can be pretty sure some blind idiot will walk into it & damage something. So this helps protect it. Put the wire ends into a sealed polythene bag.
Whilst the mast is down attach a 4mm line to the shroud on one side level with the top of the steaming light long enough to reach the shroud on the other side. When the mast is re erected this should stretch taught in front of the mast & rest on top of the light. It will stop the halyard flicking round the mast & hooking on the steaming light when you go to hoist the mainsail.
Over the winter get the family to treat you to a loos rig gauge for Xmas so you get the tension right. It is the best way to get best performance.  
------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex
|