Removing 2007 era stanchions
Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 430
Forum Description: 430 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=12331
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 01:44
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Removing 2007 era stanchions
Posted By: Dogscout
Subject: Removing 2007 era stanchions
Date Posted: 06 November 2020 at 10:25
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Hello all; I am in need of removing some of my stantions thanks to getting them bent in a storm last year. So the boat is a 2007 430 with the aluminum stanchion sockets and the stainless stanchions. Do you know of a way to remove the stanchion? sure the side bolt comes out but it seem the stanchion and socket are now one. I have tried heat, penetrating oil, big wrench, etc and nothing even moves. The black plastic liner seems to have not helped to keep them from corroding together  ------------- Adventure awaits |
Replies:
Posted By: jeb
Date Posted: 06 November 2020 at 14:54
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same solution on my h400 from 2006. Just removed the M6 screw and lifted the stanchions. Somewhere I saw a picture with a home built tool to remove it. A pipe outside the stanchion swith a slot at the lower wire hole standing at the foot. Then a hydraulic jack on top and a chain Connected to a bolt or pin in the stanchion hole. ------------- Jesper Hanse 400e |
Posted By: toholthe
Date Posted: 06 November 2020 at 23:48
| The bolt should have been plastic. Someone have changed it and it have caused the corrosion. |
Posted By: Stormsvalen
Date Posted: 07 November 2020 at 08:55
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No, the original bolts are SS steel. Best regards Peter ------------- 'Stormsvalen' Hanse 400e DEN 167 |
Posted By: Dogscout
Date Posted: 07 November 2020 at 16:17
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The hydraulic jack and pipe seems like a brilliant idea, and I could fabricate that. but my stanchions are damaged and I do not have the facilities to build that tool. Any other ideas on how to remove them are welcome. ------------- Adventure awaits |
Posted By: 350Bob
Date Posted: 07 November 2020 at 16:27
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I see that you have tried heat, have you tried cold? There is a product available in the U.K. called Freeze and release, I used it in the past with success. Please keep us all informed of how you get on as I also have one to remove. Best of luck ------------- H350 #205 |
Posted By: Mark_J1
Date Posted: 07 November 2020 at 21:31
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I had the same. In the end I oversize drilled the hole where the bolt went through. Loop of dyneema through the guard rail hole. Then a slide hammer connected and used vertically & upwards. It came out reluctantly but it did release. To refit I used a longer bolt & an external nut. Both liberally covered in duralac. Then a power boat took out the stanchion completely but that’s another story :-) Mark ------------- Hanse 400e "Grey Goose" Hull #31 |
Posted By: Martin&Rene
Date Posted: 08 November 2020 at 21:24
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Mine did come out with heat as I poured boiling hot water on to just the aluminium part of the base. In my case, I had bent the stanchion. As I stepped off onto the pontoon, the hem of my jacket caught on the stanchion and I ended up upside held just by the the jacket. I have now fitted stanchion covers on the 4 stanchions that are close to the shrouds. It must have looked serious, as just for once, my wife did not laugh at my predicament. ------------- Martin&Rene Hanse 341 Dipper Wheel steering, 3 cabin layout, normally based in Scotland |
Posted By: Dogscout
Date Posted: 09 November 2020 at 07:35
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Still working on this and I am considering replacing the bases/feet as well. Does anyone know how the base is attached to the toe rail or deck? is there a bolt from the bottom through the deck or are the bases connected mechanically to the toe rail? Any help is greatly appreciated. going to try more heat on just the base today and more penetrating oil. Frustrated! ------------- Adventure awaits |
Posted By: jeb
Date Posted: 09 November 2020 at 09:10
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On my 2006 Hanse 400 there is a bolt in the foot with a washer and a nut from the inside. From what I remember the bolt is fixed in the foot (hexagon shaped hole) so you can probably unscrew the nut without access to the head. I found the picture of the tool mentioned in my earlier post. Should do the job without damaging the boat.  ------------- Jesper Hanse 400e |
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 09 November 2020 at 13:49
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To avoid expensive equipment just use the bottom of an old acrow prop and adapt that. There are thousands of them all over the world & it must be possible to get one. Take the top bit out as you do not need it. Drill hole in the bottom plate & place it over the base so it pushes onto that rather than the deck. Make sure that the through pin is above the top of the stanchion & hook that to the stanchion with a bit of chain & wind it up. The hardest part is drilling a 1 inch hole in the bottom plate. Some already have a hole so you may be lucky & find one. ------------- Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex |
Posted By: Dogscout
Date Posted: 20 November 2020 at 06:20
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So I just want to thank everyone for their input and ideas. In the end I have bought new bases to go with my new stanchions. The simple cost of just putting new ones in has beat trying to separate the bent stanchions from the original bases. If I were not in a marina 6000 miles from my tools I would try to fab up a jack system. I will post some pics when the new bases arrive and I get on with the work.
------------- Adventure awaits |
Posted By: Interlude
Date Posted: 20 November 2020 at 22:46
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Assuming that you have removed the stainless steel stanchion from the aluminium foot using one of the ingenuous methods discussed, is it possible to remove (or tighten) the foot from above, or does it need access from below the deck? I am hoping that a socket spanner can access a bolt from above, to tighten a slightly loose foot. Assuming there is a glassed in plate below the deck! ------------- Interlude 342#241 |
Posted By: Dogscout
Date Posted: 21 November 2020 at 01:04
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On the rear port stanchion there is a Threaded ALU plate under the deck and I believe that if you got the stanchion out then a thin walled socket might work. I cannot get the remains of the stanchion out so I will likely take a sawzall to it and expose the bolt head. I'm waiting for the new bases to arrive before I go crazy cutting stuff up. On the gate stanchion on the port side I found nuts below the deck however after removing the nuts I was not able to pull upwards and remove the gate. Again, I'm not going in destructively until the new bases are here. It could just be sikaflex holding it tight. I was able to buy the new stanchions from Boatoon and the new bases are on the way. ------------- Adventure awaits |
Posted By: jeb
Date Posted: 21 November 2020 at 08:43
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I’m in the process of adding gates to my 2006 Hanse 400 and that involves removing 2 bases and then mount 8 of them in new positions. On this model there are nut and washers (so no aluplates). The bolt is not held I place in the base so the stanchion must off some way (mine were easy). Access from below is not the best since removal of the ceiling in both the head and kitchen is not doable without demolition. ------------- Jesper Hanse 400e |
Posted By: Dogscout
Date Posted: 15 December 2020 at 07:27
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So what i found was that the corrosion of the AL base tightened the plastic sleeve and would not easily release the stainless stanchion. Everyone that I cut into has water in it and salt and crud. The weep holes did not do their job. I expect that the hydraulic jack tool will work well and that us a lot of force needed to pull them out. My stanchions had bent and the pipe of that tool would need to accommodate that also. I cut off the remains of the stanchion and then cut vertically down across the base. I also cut horizontally across and broke out the last bit of stainless. This allowed me to get at the bolt head. Three of the stanchions had bolts into embedded AL plates, but the gates and mid stanchions just had a nut below and I had to remove paneling. All in all it was easy but like many boat jobs it was a pain in the ass.  ------------- Adventure awaits |
Posted By: 350Bob
Date Posted: 15 December 2020 at 13:25
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Thanks for the update, it is really useful to have this information shared. Did you make any modifications on the new ones to improve the drainage? Bob ------------- H350 #205 |
Posted By: Dogscout
Date Posted: 15 December 2020 at 14:20
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No I did not make any modifications. I'm just glad its done, and I hope to never have to do it again. Or if I ever do it again I hope I am near tools. I have been in Greece since October and the Lockdown has severely limited my access to tools and parts. ------------- Adventure awaits |
Posted By: Wairua
Date Posted: 03 October 2025 at 15:37
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Old topic, but good to have all info together. I had bent stanchions which I had to renew. I could not remove all of them easily. I just heated the aluminium with a small torch, to melt the plastic bushing. Put a big screwdriver in a lifeline hole for some movements. Fairly easy job. No need for hydraulics or whatsover (in my case) I own a Hanse 370. I see the two aft stanchion bases are bolt through and reachable via the aft cabine. The others are tapped in a aluminium strip? Regards, Sander |