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Buying new Jefa rudder, what should I order?

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Forum Name: 341 / 342
Forum Description: 341 / 342 Hints and Tims
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Topic: Buying new Jefa rudder, what should I order?
Posted By: Gunnar
Subject: Buying new Jefa rudder, what should I order?
Date Posted: 25 November 2020 at 20:49
I'm keen on getting the Jefa replacement rudder for my 342.
However, I'm a little bit confused about what to order. My late 2005 342 with wheel steering and the deep/standard keel should for sure have this one: https://jefa.com/ftp/old_boat_spare_parts/Hanse/Hanse_342/Hanse_342-Replacement_rudder_wheel.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://jefa.com/ftp/old_boat_spare_parts/Hanse/Hanse_342/Hanse_342-Replacement_rudder_wheel.pdf .
I understand that some other 342 owners already have done the swap, so I seek advice:
- Has Jefa the complete rudder with stock as an item I can order? In the price list, it seems like I have to order blade and stock separately.
- Is it necessary or at least a good idea to get new lower and upper bearings, too?
I'm very happy if someone who has done this upgrade already would share their experience with me!

Best regards, Gunnar


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway



Replies:
Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 25 November 2020 at 21:44
PM Johan Hackman he did a long thread on the subject, although his boat is tiller steered.
It would seem sensible to buy the refurb rollers for the relatively low cost at this stage. It is not a complete bearing just the rollers & cages
I am not sure about the 342 as I have a 311 but I had to order my rudder in an emergency & take what they had in production. This meant that I had to accept one with the standard 87.26 degree angle on the top of the blade. This does not match the angle of the hull, but leaves an angled gap. Jefa said that they can alter their mould to adjust this angle a small amount, so that the rudder fits the hull. This is good for steering as it reduces stalling. However, I have not noticed this. I could not go down this route as it would have caused a delay of several weeks.
So I suggest that you check your existing rudder & if necessary ask Jefa to adjust the top to match. It does (I believe) reduce the length of the blade by up to 20mm but that is negligible.At the time , it was explained that they place a small packing in the top of the mould to form the angle.
Of course it may be that the 87 degrees is made to suit the 342 anyway & it is only the 311 that needs the alteration


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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: Koppiekrou
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 06:10
Hi Gunnar, why are you keen to replace the rudder? 

Frank


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291 4Ever - 341 Eternal Flame and now a Hanse 371 '05 Karma - Shoal draft - 2 cabin - 40hp - Variprofile


Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 07:17
@Samuel: Thanks for good advice, now I already know more on how to proceed!
@Frank: I hope/believe that with a deeper/better rudder my boat will not so easily broach in a gust. My current rudder is 136 cm deep, while the Jefa is 160 according to the drawings.


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 09:31
Hi,
I changed the rudder last year (RUD34) . the stock  presented some galvanic corrosion and the water had cracked the fiberglass.
I ordered the complete rudder after finding the right one for  my boat on the Jefa site. I ordered thru the jefa dealer in Italy.
It took a couple of months to have it delivered. It only needed to be keyed, primed and coated with antifoul. I used International primer and antifouling near the stock with no metallic stuff.
Bearings were fine. 



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Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20


Posted By: Matt1
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 09:36
Like others I'm intrigued to know why you want to change a rudder? Surely a rudder should last the lifetime of the boat (unless damaged, or you are seeking some performance gain?)

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Hanse 418 #64 EmBer. Hamble, UK



Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 10:23
Originally posted by Matt1 Matt1 wrote:

Like others I'm intrigued to know why you want to change a rudder? Surely a rudder should last the lifetime of the boat (unless damaged, or you are seeking some performance gain?)
This is purely a question of performance. The 342 rudder story, as far as I have understood: At some time in production, Hanse decided to use the same rudder on the short and deep draft models. Thus, my 342 #350 (deep draft) has a somewhat shorter rudder than optimal for performance. I also read that other 342 owners that made this upgrade are very satisfied.
Since I'm racing my 342 I'm keen on getting the most out of my boat. For the same reason, I upgraded my sails to Elvstrom EPEX some years ago. A significant cost, but also a significant satisfaction! :-)


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: Captain Cook
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 10:47
When buying Hanse spare parts, check boatoon for price comparison. Some times their prices are reasonable, other times not. Jefa has always time and patience to guide you via phone or email. If you visit the factory in Denmark, you may even find a rudder at a better bargain, cutting out the middlemen.
https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/shop/article/27268/Ruder-Hanse_342-Replacement_rudder_tiller" rel="nofollow - https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/shop/article/27268/Ruder-Hanse_342-Replacement_rudder_tiller
https://hanse.boatoon.com/en/shop/article/27228/Rudder-for-Hanse-H3xx-long


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Freya H400 #27 (2006), 40HP 3JH4E, 2-cabin, 3-blade Flexofold, Aries LiftUp Windvane, Exturn 300, Jefa DD1,Simrad NX40,Icom M603(VHF)+M802(SSB)


Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 12:52
Be careful when buying a rudder by someone other than Jefa.
This was my original from my 2003 built boat. It has the 3 splayed struts as shown in the picture of the cheaper rudder. It split down the centre vertically & was never fully filled with foam

i have now found a picture of my new rudder explaining what i meant about rudder fit at the top
This will promote rudder stalling & hence may not help you attempts to control a broach.
However, it has to be said that there are other ways to prevent broaching & rig set up is a factor


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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 19:20
On my previous hanse (311). The old rudder was of very bad quality from poland. At one point the lower bearing house got so corroded that it could not keep the bearing/rollers in place. So a new bearing house was needed. But then I got a good offer when visiting the Jefa factory for advice.
Got a new 130mm tube and nylon bearings + a rudder Rud34 or something similar. It was a DIY job, and got much help from a skilled friend. The tupe needs lots of fiberglass. The rudder should breake before the tube...
Highly recommend Jefa.
/H8jer



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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 26 November 2020 at 19:26
Originally posted by samuel samuel wrote:

 it is only the 311 that needs the alteration

I am not sure this is correct anymore. When I ordered my new rudder, they had the old one for measuerment because I mentioned the you was not satisfied with the angel. I belive there are now two options for the 311


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 27 November 2020 at 09:09
Originally posted by samuel samuel wrote:

PM Johan Hackman he did a long thread on the subject, although his boat is tiller steered.


Although I have written many long posts but I don't recall writing one on this particular subject.

I agree that sticking with Jefa seems a lot better than looking for another manufacturer. And if there is no problem with the bearings you should not have to replace them. I had my bottom bearing replaced because the one that came with the boat got the steering completely stuck.

I think it is important to remember that the rudder is not all about size, it is also about profile and thickness.

I had my rudder replaced under warranty in 2008 (when the boat was only 3 years old) for pretty much the same reason Samuel replaced his. The first rudder Hanse sent was the short version which I refused to accept.

I am not entirely happy with my rudder. I think it is thinner than the Jefa version which in theory gives my a faster boat but also one that broaches more easily. A thicker rudder is better for preventing this so it not just the size of the rudder that matters. Also, my rudder has a strange profile that is very sensitive to growth. If I don't brush it clean I will get a weird feel in my tiller. If my boat had a wheel I would probably never have noticed.

I would love to have the Jefa rudder but it is too expensive and I will continue to brush my rudder clean.

Johan

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http://www.johanhackman.se" rel="nofollow - http://www.johanhackman.se


Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 27 November 2020 at 11:00
Originally posted by Johan Hackman Johan Hackman wrote:

Originally posted by samuel samuel wrote:

PM Johan Hackman he did a long thread on the subject, although his boat is tiller steered.


Although I have written many long posts but I don't recall writing one on this particular subject.
Johan


And there was me thinking that you were the expert on rudders for the 34 -- i still think you areThumbs Up.

As an aside- Apart from the standard, I seem to recall that Jefa did a racier version with a different profile. It may be worth checking. if this is corect & if it would be to one's advantage to adopt that pattern, if available




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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 17 January 2021 at 08:54
I'm impressed by Jefa, nothing is left to chance! They sent me this specification of the 342 rudder, and as far as I have been able to see, it will fit exactly.
So I ordered it, and will receive it around the start of March. I did not order a replacement lower bearing, I will wait until I remove the old rudder and then verify the make and state of it.


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 04 April 2021 at 20:23

Old and new rudder side by side


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 04 May 2021 at 09:08

Now it's done, just looking forward to launch this week!


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 23 October 2021 at 15:09
Gunnar, how much did you pay for your new rudder?

Johan

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http://www.johanhackman.se" rel="nofollow - http://www.johanhackman.se


Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 24 October 2021 at 07:34
The new rudder discharged my account by 32000 NOK, including 25% VAT.
Was it worth it? Yes, definitely.
Just getting such a good-looking rudder made me happy, and as it resists broaching much better than the old one it even has a practical purpose, too. ;-)


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: Interlude
Date Posted: 29 October 2021 at 03:58
I agree the Jefa 342/341 (deep profile, wheel steered) rudder is much better than the original supplied with the boat in 2004, presumably from Poland. The Jefa rudder was about 5cm shorter than the original (from memory), and it's performance is much better, particularly regarding broaching. The original rudder suffered from corrosion on the shaft, I was directed by the yard not to sail in open waters after they found the corrosion - luckily I have Sydney Harbour to play in so not an issue.

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Interlude 342#241


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 29 October 2021 at 07:55
Jim, I believe you wrote somewhere that the Jefa rudder is also slightly thicker than the original?

Johan

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http://www.johanhackman.se" rel="nofollow - http://www.johanhackman.se


Posted By: Interlude
Date Posted: 01 November 2021 at 03:21
Hi Johan, I can't recall mentioning this or measuring it, sorry. Certainly a different profile, as that is about all that could have been changed other than weight and hopefully more corrosion resistance in the shaft.

The old unit went to the skip some time ago, I kept it as a spare for a while then realised that Jeffa were so quick to supply that I would purchase from them rather than go to the expense of refitting the old rudder for a short period.

Jim




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Interlude 342#241


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 03 November 2021 at 19:05
Originally posted by Interlude Interlude wrote:

Hi Johan, I can't recall mentioning this or measuring it, sorry.


I apologise, I now realise I misunderstood you when revising your post in https://myhanse.com/hanse-342-replacement-rudder_topic2868&OB=DESC_page1.html" rel="nofollow - this thread. You actually did not measure the thickness of the rudder but gave a good comparison between your original rudder and the Jefa RUD34, the measurements being consistent with my own research.

Below is a lay-over of the RUD34 on a picture of the current rudder on my boat.



By looking at the EXIF I realise that I was looking at the Jefa option already in 2010, and I probably was involved in many threads in this forum discussing a replacement.

I believe that the Jefa rudder is thicker than the rudder I have and I have learnt that I thicker profile gives a slower boat but one that doesn't broach as easily. Broaching itself obviously slows down the boat so I think a thicker profile would benefit my boat a lot.

Johan

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 03 November 2021 at 19:44
The rudder on my boat has always acted funny, especially when there is a little growth on it.

What happens when there is a little weather helm is that I have to push the tiller away from me - as opposed to pull it towards myself like you normally would do. After a lot of research I have come to the conclusion that the centre of pressure is too far forward and the rudder thus becomes over-balanced. This is worsened by growth on the rudder which I believe creates turbulence in the water flow across the rudder surface.

When my boat was out of the water last time in the spring of 2020 I removed all the biocide antifouling (due to new regulations that I totally agree with) but I, in all my clumsiness as a handyman, failed to apply a smooth layer of bottom paint and instead got a rough surface. This meant that I got this weird feel in the tiller even without any growth.

Now, I have also realised that the profile of my rudder cannot be any intended NACA profile as it is in some areas concave. I regard this as a production flaw. The picture below shows some of it, if not all. I believe this disturbs the water flow around the rudder which creates turbulence which both gives the weird feel, and slows down the boat at the same time.

I have considered reconstructing the profile with polyester filler but having revised a lot of informative posts in this forum I think I have come to the conclusion that getting a Jefa rudder would be the easiest and also best option. I think after getting new sail to my boat this year, this is the upgrade she deserves. It is good to know what to expect in terms of cost, so thank you Gunnar for that information.


Johan

PS. The picture shows the rudder from behind. I think also the roughness of the surface is visible.



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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 04 December 2021 at 12:31
I have made my desicion and sent my payment to Jefa. Next season Emilia will sail with a RUD34.

I believe that what is under the water mirrors what is above, meaning that the keel mirrors the main, and the rudder the head sail. Having got all my sails replaced by new ones I feel the investment in a new rudder is justified.

I have three reasons to believe Jefa´s rudder is better than my current one and they are:

    Jefa's rudder has a greater surface behind the rudder stock and therefore the rudder will be "less balanced". The spade rudder on a Hanse is supposed to be semi-balanced which means that the portion of the rudder in front of the rudder stock counter-acts the forces acting on the rudder behind the stock which will make steering lighter, which probably is better felt with a tiller than a wheel. In my case, when I am saying that the rudder is "over-balanced" I mean that it feels like there is more rudder surface in front of the stock than behind it. It feels like the rudder was mounted backwards.

    The second reason is that I am positive the Jefa rudder has a correct air foil shape. They are a renowned company and there should be no reason to fear that they would manufacture a rudder where parts would be pushed inwards which is the case with my current rudder. I firmly believe that my current rudder acts just as bad as a head sail that was extremely poorly designed or extremely worn out. The difference is just that you would be able detect the the deficiencies with the head sail immideately. The sail would have a bubble in it and it would flutter.

    The third reason is that Jefa's rudder is thicker. It is 18% of the cord length according to one of the drawings on their site which means that for a 54 cm cord the maximum thickness at the top is close to 10 cm. I don't have the measurement for my boat and would have to swim to check it and the water is too cold to do that at the moment but I believe that it is not that thick.


In the process I have had to go back to learning more about fluid mechanics and that has been very interesting and it has reminded me about the many "physics debates" I got myself involved in in this forum. Oh, the times!

I also have been trying to get some more information about the airfoil shape of the RUD34. As Jefa is a production company and not an engineering one they could not provide me with much information so I wrote to Judel-Vrolijk but they haven't replied yet. I first thought that the 18% thickness of the cordlength would mean that the shape would be a NACA0018 profile (the two zeros inticating that there is no camber, i.e. the profile is symmetric as opposed as the wing of an airplane) but studying https://jefa.com/ftp/rudder/rudder_blade/RUD34.PDF" rel="nofollow - this drawing tells me that the rudder is designed to have a varying shape according to its depth. It begins with 19% at the waterline to go down to 14% further down the foil. It also seems that the point where the maximum thickness is located is much further forward in the lower section. I am puzzled about all this and would like to know more about the design so if someone knows anything about this, please let me know!

I am also not sure what the "balance 16,5%" in the drawing means but am assuming for the moment that this is the portion of the rudder surface in front of the rudder stock is 16% of the total surface area.

Please comment if you have got anything to add to the above!

Johan

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 28 January 2022 at 16:16
Originally posted by Johan Hackman Johan Hackman wrote:


I also have been trying to get some more information about the airfoil shape of the RUD34. As Jefa is a production company and not an engineering one they could not provide me with much information so I wrote to Judel-Vrolijk but they haven't replied yet. I first thought that the 18% thickness of the cordlength would mean that the shape would be a NACA0018 profile (the two zeros inticating that there is no camber, i.e. the profile is symmetric as opposed as the wing of an airplane) but studying https://jefa.com/ftp/rudder/rudder_blade/RUD34.PDF" rel="nofollow - this drawing tells me that the rudder is designed to have a varying shape according to its depth. It begins with 19% at the waterline to go down to 14% further down the foil. It also seems that the point where the maximum thickness is located is much further forward in the lower section.


I finally got a good reply from Judel-Vrolijk and learnt the following:

    Jefa's rudder is indeed designed by Judel-Vrolijk, even if not for the 342 specifially. The original design seems to be more slender but also with a different surface that the RUD34. It is however unsure that the then manufacurer built it exactly to the design. (From this I am gathering that just because you own a 342 does not mean that your rudder is exactly the same as another 342.)

    The RUD34 profile is a NACA00 which means that it has very round nose and the widest beam very far forward. The thickness varies from 18% to 13% between the top and the bottom.

    The RUD34 is a good cruising rudder with good lift but also a little more drag than a more slender racing rudder.



What I learnt from this message confirmed what I was hoping to find out and gave me a better understanding of what the rudder I have ordered will be like. My new rudder will be shipped from Denmark in two weeks.

Johan

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 09 February 2022 at 17:22
Emilia's new rudder has arrived!

Next step is to apply epoxy primer. I also want to try to make both the new rudder and Emilia's hull as smooth as the racing guys do so I will fine sand and polish it.

Has anyone worked on making their hull really, really smooth?

Johan




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Posted By: samuel
Date Posted: 09 February 2022 at 18:13
Why not coppercoat it? Then you can avoid the constant work re antifouling on that part every year.


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Daydream Believer- Hanse 311- No GBR9917T- Bradwell Essex


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 09 February 2022 at 18:14
Originally posted by Johan Hackman Johan Hackman wrote:


Has anyone worked on making their hull really, really smooth?

Hi Johan

YES! always...

2 years ago we sanded the bottom down to bare gelcoat then we painted 8 coats of primer!. Hempel Light Primer and then 2 coats of VC17m Extra.
https://myhanse.com/hull-area-square-meters_topic11886_post97808.html#97808" rel="nofollow - https://myhanse.com/hull-area-square-meters_topic11886_post97808.html#97808

Very labor intensive and expensive...

Every year now I use grid 400 watersanding (byhand) the whole surface before applying new VC17m Extra.
This gives a very smooth bottom. I never use High Pressure Washer on this fine paintj-ob.

/H8jer


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 09 February 2022 at 18:24
Originally posted by samuel samuel wrote:

Why not coppercoat it?

The days of antifouling is over. No biocides are allowed where I keep my boat. So I want a hard surface that can be kept clean mechanically.

Johan

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 09 February 2022 at 18:30
Originally posted by H8jer H8jer wrote:

Every year now I use grid 400 watersanding (byhand) the whole surface before applying new VC17m Extra.
This gives a very smooth bottom.


Could you also sand the VC17 to make it even smoother?

Johan


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Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 09 February 2022 at 20:55
Every year I sand the old vc17M Extra to get a smooth surface. Some placed the white primer will start to show and then I stop in that area.
So after sanding the hull looks like winter camouflage before I apply a new layer of VC17m Extra.
This is only possible with a hard antifouling not the soft selfpolishing types.
This way the hull do not build up thick layers of old paint.


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 25 February 2022 at 08:53
Here's a question for those of you who have taken delivery of a new Jefa rudder.

On my rudder there is an outdent running along the edges. This is not seen in the production pictures at Jefa's website. They say that this is easily sanded off. I am just anxious to get the right roundness at the leading edge. I don't think this will present itself as a problem but I would like to hear if others had to take care of this with their new rudders as well?


Also, in the production they use a vent hole to let air out when the foam expands but on Jefa's site this is not visible if you look at a picture of the finished product. On my rudder this hole seems to be sealed with Sikaflex. What do others think about this, is this a reliable method to seal a hole like this or should I seal it with polyester filler? You can see the hole and the Sikaflex if you take a closer look at the picture below.

Johan



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Posted By: Peppone
Date Posted: 27 February 2022 at 21:37
My 342 (deep keel) was also fitted with a short keel in 2006.
delivered.  JEFA clearly states that a deep keel needs a long rudder
rudder blade (1,600 mm) must be fitted.
The users were deceived by the shipyard. Judel &Frolijk and
the shipyard remain silent.
The boat sails 100% better with the long keel.


Posted By: Interlude
Date Posted: 01 March 2022 at 03:57
Hi Johan - my Jeffa rudder did not have the "outdent" pictured, and I can't recall the sealing hole at all. 

Sorry I can't help.

You mentioned positive buoyancy with your current rudder - that surprises me, my old and new (then) rudders were very heavy - close to a two man lift.

Good luck, Jim



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Interlude 342#241


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 01 March 2022 at 06:43
I will try to sand of the protrusions but I don't want to spoil the foil shape. 

I weighed the rudder and weighs around 29 kg. The drawing says that the volume is 39 squaredecimetres so it should have a bouyancy in water. 

I checked my current rudder in 2008:


Johan


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Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 01 March 2022 at 07:01
Hi Johan,
I also had this outdent on the leading edge of my Jefa rudder which I got last year. Before applying primer (VC-TAR2) I sanded the entire rudder to let the primer stick properly. I also tried to smooth down the leading edge, don't actually remember how much labor I put into it, but I know that after priming it was quite good.
I was more concerned about the primer itself which left an orange-peel surface which I had to sand down after each layer. The final result after applying two layers of VC-17 was satisfying enough, but I will continue work this spring to make it 'baby-skin' perfect. ;-)
I didn't pay attention to the small hole on the top of the rudder, maybe Jefa themselves could give you some advice?
I'm very satisfied with the Jefa rudder anyway, it resists broaching way better than the old short rudder, and that's why I spent this amount of money and work on replacing the old one. (In addition the Jefa looks way better when on the hard! ;-)


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 03 March 2022 at 08:10
Originally posted by Gunnar Gunnar wrote:

I didn't pay attention to the small hole on the top of the rudder, maybe Jefa themselves could give you some advice?

I have emailed Jefa a couple of times but have not got an answer as to whether sealing the hole with Sikaflex is satisfactory. 

I had and interesting conversation with my local chandler who suggested I sanded the rudder down to the GRP, i.e. removed the gelcoat. I don't know what is the better thing to do, to roughen up the gelcoat or get rid of it altogether? 

I am currently considering applying LeFant's T-Coat. It will give a hard and smooth surface that is free of biocides. 

Johan 


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Posted By: Gunnar
Date Posted: 03 March 2022 at 10:45
Hi Johan,
in my opinion, sanding away the entire layer of gelcoat is a really bad advice. Your rudder will really not get any better, you just impose yourself lots of unnecessary work. And you are not guaranteed a surface as smooth as it is now.
I'm sure you get the best result by carefully sanding the joint between the two halves, then lightly sanding the entire blade, finally applying whatever you choose, e.g. the T-Coat.

Best regards, Gunnar


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Hanse 342 #350 "Lathans" - Horten, Norway


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 03 March 2022 at 17:55
Gunnar, I think you are absolutely right. I might have misunderstood what the guy said to me. 

Johan


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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 13 April 2022 at 17:10
I am struggling to get a smooth surface on my new rudder. I first spent a few days in a friend's garage and then tried to fine sand it but realised it needed another coat of paint.

I needed somewhere to work where it is fairly warm and I found the perfect place during the Easter holidays - at the school where I teach music. I hope the head master doesn't see this post.

Johan



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Posted By: Captain MJ
Date Posted: 14 April 2022 at 05:32
Looking good!

From my recent work painting my saildrive and other items, one lesson I learned is that it helps a lot to paint in a place with minimum dust, preferably indoors. And if you can't find an indoor location, make sure you do your painting in the morning before the wind comes up.


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Mark Jordan : ASA Sailing Instructor : USCG Licensed Captain : Hanse 342 "Twelve-Winded Sky" #405


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 02 June 2022 at 10:45
I have now removed my old rudder and taken it home to compare measurements and foil shape with my new Jefa RUD34. The new rudder will be fitted next week or so before my boat goes back in the water.



I think it is visible in the below picture how the foil shape differs. It seems like the maximum width on my old rudder is almost in the middle, i.e. 50% of the cord length, whereas a NACA profile should really be 30%.

I have also noted that while the RUD34 is thicker at the top (19% according to Jefa's drawing) than the old rudder, it is thinner at the bottom (14% according to the same drawing).



Johan

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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 02 June 2022 at 10:46
And yes, I have removed the bottom bearing in order to clean it.

Johan

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Posted By: Koppiekrou
Date Posted: 03 June 2022 at 07:40
Hi Johan, when we dropped the rudder we had to use force to get it down. With a hammer and a piece of wood the rudder dropped slowly. 

Our upper and bottom bearing were as new so that could not be the case. When we put the rudder back we had to use again a lot of force. We made a tool at the upper bearing house so we could winch the rudder back in place. 

I am curious if you experienced the same? I always thought that the rudder would simply ‘fall out’ of the bearings 😂 

When all was in place the rudder turned very smooth as it was new. The only reason for dropping the rudder was I needed to replace the Sikaflex around the rudder shaft. So preventive maintenance 👍

Frank




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291 4Ever - 341 Eternal Flame and now a Hanse 371 '05 Karma - Shoal draft - 2 cabin - 40hp - Variprofile


Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 03 June 2022 at 08:09
Hi Frank,

The rudder just fell out when I removed the tiller head and I was lucky to have someone on the ground catching it.

I has not always been so though. When my boat was new the steering got stuck so I could hardly steer the boat. Lewmar even flew in an engineer to look at it. This was back in 2007.

Deep down in this forum you can probably find a thread about when I took my rudder out last time in 2008. Then I had the problem you describe. Then I also had two bottom bearings to try and opted for the smoother one and thats the one you can see in my picture above. I believe it is the Jefa bearing.

Johan



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Posted By: Johan Hackman
Date Posted: 16 October 2022 at 09:34
I have now sailed a whole season with my new rudder and have written a few words as an evalutation in this thread: https://www.myhanse.com/topic6709_post112991.html#112991" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/topic6709_post112991.html#112991 (Emilia on the move).

Getting a new rudder with a proper foil shape has made a world of difference to my boat and the money (although a lot!) feels very well spent.

Johan

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Posted By: Interlude
Date Posted: 16 October 2022 at 23:26
I agree entirely with this experience on my 342-241, wheel steering. Particularly the ability to steer through a broach. The Jefa rudder was the best upgrade in 18 years in the boat.

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Interlude 342#241


Posted By: Kox
Date Posted: 17 October 2022 at 10:53
Damn you all - now I'm inclined :-)

And here I thought new mattresses were next on the never-ending-list-of-want-to-upgrades.


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Hanse 315, Ella, Hull# 640



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