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Jib whisker pole length

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 370 / 375
Forum Description: 370 / 375 Hints, Tips and News
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=12427
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 03:40
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Jib whisker pole length
Posted By: H8jer
Subject: Jib whisker pole length
Date Posted: 25 December 2020 at 08:36
I consider a pfeiffer telescopic whisker pole to limit the movement of the jib when going downwind in such wind-strengths that the crew will not join in the adventures of setting the gennakker.

The jib is 26sqmeters and pfeiffer has a whisker pole for 25sqmeters that is length 2.5-4.5m in 50mm.
Pfeiffer also got a 60mm version for 40sqmeters and 3-5.5 meters length.

I searched the forum and saw a 342 had "about" 2.5meters.

What length and strength would be advised?

/H8jer



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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin



Replies:
Posted By: MasterKeil
Date Posted: 31 December 2020 at 16:54
SVB sells the 25 qm for 326 €, the 40qm for 468 €.
Distance from mast to bow is about 4,15 m. So I would say the smaller 4,5m is just long enough and easier to handle.
By the way: my 90 qm Code 0 is too big. I would definitly prefer max 80 qm.



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Hanse 370#640 "Nemesis"


Posted By: silversailor
Date Posted: 03 January 2021 at 19:02
I use a telescoping whisker pole.  Much easier to handle than a long one. Approx 3m-5.5m.


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Silversailor
South Haven, MI USA
S/V Legacy
2010 Andrews 28


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 03 January 2021 at 19:15
Thanks to both of you. Found out my jib is 28kvm instead of 26kvm.

Silversailor - do You also use the pole for other sails than the selftacker jib?


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: tango
Date Posted: 03 January 2021 at 22:33
https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOLuvpeE-3df9V2ozkaaqq3USi9tzw-ibs0fN6M" rel="nofollow - https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOLuvpeE-3df9V2ozkaaqq3USi9tzw-ibs0fN6M


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 04 January 2021 at 09:16
Hi tango.
It is not possible to view your picture even if I am logged in using google.
/h8jer


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: silversailor
Date Posted: 04 January 2021 at 17:15
Originally posted by H8jer H8jer wrote:

Thanks to both of you. Found out my jib is 28kvm instead of 26kvm.

Silversailor - do You also use the pole for other sails than the selftacker jib?


I sail with 2 genoas (135 and 155) and don't use the self tacker.  I use the pole downwind on both genoas but more so on the 155 which is up in light air.


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Silversailor
South Haven, MI USA
S/V Legacy
2010 Andrews 28


Posted By: tango
Date Posted: 04 January 2021 at 17:59
my boat hanse 375
The length of my spinnaker pole is 4m.
I use it with the 28m self-tacking jib,
we thus covered 17 days from Cape Verde to the West Indies with the spinnaker pole on one side or the other.
I also have a gennaker of 63 m2 but it holds by itself if there is not too much swell, for that I put the mainsail under the false breakdown with a boom restraint.






Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 05 January 2021 at 14:46
I'm going to build a "onepiece" one for my boat with these costs (total 120):

Aluminum anticorodal 6060T5 Tube 40mm *2mm , 3mt : 20 eu
 
2 Hooks Pfeiffer (SVB) : 68 eu
 
Plate on mast (I don't have one) : 34 eu 



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Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 05 January 2021 at 16:51
Thx for all the inputs.

For a Hanse 37x the J-measurement is 4.15m(+-) like Masterkeil already said. This is the max length allowed for a spinnaker-pole. To handle the strain from a real spinnaker or eg. my 105m2 gennaker I would guess it had to be 80mm thick.
4.15mx80mm is not easy to store onboard and would also be too long for the Jib.

Storage is a main issue. The 2.5m Pfeiffer Telescopic model is the smallest possible, but if I only need a 3m pole then cptgood's idea is much cheaper.
Almost right next to Jefa Marine that builds our rudders another relevant shop is located. It is John Mast that also made the mast for my first boat. I can get a 6061T6 anodized tube there.
http://shop.johnmast.dk/en/" rel="nofollow - http://shop.johnmast.dk/en/

I think that I will have to postpone the final decision until  the mast is back on the boat and I can make the measurements.

So next question - How far up the mast should the bracket/plate be placed? Normally a horizontal level pole would be preferred.
The bracket needs to be mounted before the mast is put back on. So I can't wait to do the real measurement.



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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: iemand
Date Posted: 05 January 2021 at 19:27
storing the boom is on our boat absolutely no problem. we store it in a bag along the main boom. completely out of the way and easy to handle. Not perfect but for us the best compromise since the deck stays clean and not too many things around the mast. Furthermore it is practically unvisible.

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Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007


Posted By: silversailor
Date Posted: 05 January 2021 at 22:21
Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

I'm going to build a "onepiece" one for my boat with these costs (total 120):

Aluminum anticorodal 6060T5 Tube 40mm *2mm , 3mt : 20 eu
 
2 Hooks Pfeiffer (SVB) : 68 eu
 
Plate on mast (I don't have one) : 34 eu 


If you are building one, why not use a carbon fiber tube?


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Silversailor
South Haven, MI USA
S/V Legacy
2010 Andrews 28


Posted By: silversailor
Date Posted: 05 January 2021 at 22:24
Originally posted by H8jer H8jer wrote:

Thx for all the inputs.

So next question - How far up the mast should the bracket/plate be placed? Normally a horizontal level pole would be preferred.
The bracket needs to be mounted before the mast is put back on. So I can't wait to do the real measurement.


There's a track on the face of my mast.I've attached a standard fitting that can be adjusted up/down the track to deal with different conditions, sails, etc.


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Silversailor
South Haven, MI USA
S/V Legacy
2010 Andrews 28


Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 06 January 2021 at 08:38
H8jer wrote:Thx for all the inputs.
So next question - How far up the mast should the bracket/plate be placed? Normally a horizontal level pole would be preferred.
The bracket needs to be mounted before the mast is put back on. So I can't wait to do the real measurement.

Why not after the mast is put back on? 
Before installing the plate I would check the measures with the sail and whisker well set. Then drill the holes in the best position.


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Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20


Posted By: cptgood
Date Posted: 06 January 2021 at 09:01
Originally posted by silversailor silversailor wrote:

Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

I'm going to build a "onepiece" one for my boat with these costs (total 120):

Aluminum anticorodal 6060T5 Tube 40mm *2mm , 3mt : 20 eu
 
2 Hooks Pfeiffer (SVB) : 68 eu
 
Plate on mast (I don't have one) : 34 eu 


If you are building one, why not use a carbon fiber tube?

Cost issues..I believe.


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Hanse320 - Hull#127/08 - Wheel - ST headsail - Yanmar 3YM30 - SD20


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 16 April 2021 at 20:27
Originally posted by cptgood cptgood wrote:

Why not after the mast is put back on? 
Before installing the plate I would check the measures with the sail and whisker well set. Then drill the holes

I agree that the best option is to measure right height when the sail is up.
But here is also a very good example of why It is Better to doublecheck than to be sorry.
Got the Peiffer adjustable Wiskerpole. And also got a bracket for the mast.
This picture shows that the peiffer bracket is banned from being used on sparcraft mast. I've put the bracket inside the mast to show the problem. The bracket would have to be placed outside the mast ofcause...
Driling holes would cut cables and the rivets would obstruct pulling new cables.


Perhaps a Track  like SilverSailor has is the way to go. Then the rivets can be placed in the centerline


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 25 May 2021 at 07:21
Had the first sail with the new setup with the peiffer telescopic whiskerpole.

First I drilled 10x (5mm) holes in the mast for the 1 meter sheet-track (Size2) and used monel rivets to secure it.
The wagon is removable so it is only placed on the track right before the whisker pole is to be used. The corners of the sheet-track is cut/grinded down. All this should prevent the jib-sheet getting stuck on the track when tacking.






It works perfect!


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 25 May 2021 at 08:23
looks good !

The bottom locking point of the t-rail is at the same height as the boats safety rail?

Would you have put it higher, now that you tried it with the selftacker (I see your attachment point well above the booms gooseneck)?
I gues the clew of a Genoa would even be higher when pushed out some 90 degrees.
Taken into account the objective of a horizontal pole.

I just ordered the same material, pfeiffer size 3, also 1 meter.

Peter


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Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241


Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 01 June 2021 at 09:42
What are the opinions about 10 M6 bolts (5mm hole drilled then M6 thread cut into the sparcraft mast) with sunk heads vs. 10 6.4mm monel pop rivets?

Initially I wanted to go the rivet route, but the rivets don’t sit as nicely in the (sunk head) holes in the  t-rail. While I got myself a heavy duty hand riveter, the length of the head (that takes the nail of the rivet) doesn’t go all the way to the bottom of the whole of the top-rail, I.e don’t think I can push the rivet to sit flush.

Also would have to (slightly) drill out the 6 mm holes in the t-rail to take the 6.4mm rivets.

Then I thought, why not simply use bolts with sunk heads (threaded into the mast with anti seize paste), this is how the t-rail is meant (from what it appears, looking at the holes) to be fastened…

Cutting M6 threat into the mast, wall thickness sufficient ?

Opinions?


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Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 01 June 2021 at 09:58
Originally posted by Rock Rock wrote:

While I got myself a heavy duty hand riveter, the length of the head (that takes the nail of the rivet) doesn’t go all the way to the bottom of the whole of the top-rail, I.e don’t think I can push the rivet to sit flush.
Opinions?

Hi Rock

If you put a loose 4mm nut on the rod of the rivet  before you insert it into the riveter - it is possible to get the rivet flush. This will extend the the 'range' of your hand riveter.
Monel rivets are very strong and I used this method with this riveter:



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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 01 June 2021 at 10:08
Originally posted by Rock Rock wrote:

looks good !
The bottom locking point of the t-rail is at the same height as the boats safety rail?
Would you have put it higher, now that you tried it with the selftacker (I see your attachment point well above the booms gooseneck)?
Peter

Hi Rock/Peter
Did first see your post now.
The 1 meter track is needed because just small adjustments to the sheet will alter the level of the whisker pole.
I have a 28 sqm jib from elvstrøm and I waited for the right weather in our harbor to unfurl the jib when the wind was from behind. Then I saw where to roughly place the 1 meter track.
I would agree that different sails will require different heights if a single point is used. But with the track it is no so important and if you see my picture you could perhaps estimate the position. 


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: Rock
Date Posted: 01 June 2021 at 12:05
Thanks H8jer, clever solution with the 4mm nut.

Remains the question of rivets vs bolts (cutting thread).

Peter 


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Hanse 400e "M-square2" #0241


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 01 June 2021 at 13:44
Originally posted by Rock Rock wrote:

Remains the question of rivets vs bolts (cutting thread).
Peter 

Hi Peter

Stainless bolts?
Monel rivets prevent corrosion when joining stainless fittings to an aluminum mast. I this case it is an alu track that will be up against an alu mast. In theory alu rivets should work but they are normally not anodized. So I would stick to Monel rivets.  


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: DJgun
Date Posted: 21 September 2021 at 08:07
Hi Peter, 
I have a full length track for spinnaker pole, which is screwed to the front of the mast using M5 countersunk screws.  The mast extrusion is less than 5mm thick., so a little small for M6 but OK for M5.

 If you decide to use screws it is much better to use a "Form Tap" which forms the threads in the mast instead of cutting them, resulting in a stronger attachment. The Form Taps are not cheap, but they are the best way to put Threaded holes in the mast. Note :The tap drill size is a little bit different to what is used for cutting taps too.  I strongly recommend using Form Tap.

Cheers
DJ


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DJ.....Sailor Ordinaire
HIN DE-HANJ0331J708


Posted By: iemand
Date Posted: 21 September 2021 at 12:02
I took a Selden track with rivets on both sides.

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Hanse 312 MJ 2004 - Hanse 370e MJ 2007



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