The jib is 26sqmeters and pfeiffer has a whisker pole for 25sqmeters that is length 2.5-4.5m in 50mm.

Pfeiffer also got a 60mm version for 40sqmeters and 3-5.5 meters length.

I searched the forum and saw a 342 had "about" 2.5meters.

What length and strength would be advised?

/H8jer

Distance from mast to bow is about 4,15 m. So I would say the smaller 4,5m is just long enough and easier to handle.

By the way: my 90 qm Code 0 is too big. I would definitly prefer max 80 qm.

Thanks to both of you. Found out my jib is 28kvm instead of 26kvm.

Silversailor - do You also use the pole for other sails than the selftacker jib?

Hi tango.

It is not possible to view your picture even if I am logged in using google.

/h8jer

I sail with 2 genoas (135 and 155) and don't use the self tacker.  I use the pole downwind on both genoas but more so on the 155 which is up in light air.

I also have a gennaker of 63 m2 but it holds by itself if there is not too much swell, for that I put the mainsail under the false breakdown with a boom restraint.

Aluminum anticorodal 6060T5 Tube 40mm *2mm , 3mt : 20 eu
 

2 Hooks Pfeiffer (SVB) : 68 eu

 

Plate on mast (I don't have one) : 34 eu 

For a Hanse 37x the J-measurement is 4.15m(+-) like Masterkeil already said. This is the max length allowed for a spinnaker-pole. To handle the strain from a real spinnaker or eg. my 105m2 gennaker I would guess it had to be 80mm thick.

4.15mx80mm is not easy to store onboard and would also be too long for the Jib.

Storage is a main issue. The 2.5m Pfeiffer Telescopic model is the smallest possible, but if I only need a 3m pole then cptgood's idea is much cheaper.

Almost right next to Jefa Marine that builds our rudders another relevant shop is located. It is John Mast that also made the mast for my first boat. I can get a 6061T6 anodized tube there.

http://shop.johnmast.dk/en/" rel="nofollow - http://shop.johnmast.dk/en/

I think that I will have to postpone the final decision until  the mast is back on the boat and I can make the measurements.

So next question - How far up the mast should the bracket/plate be placed? Normally a horizontal level pole would be preferred.

The bracket needs to be mounted before the mast is put back on. So I can't wait to do the real measurement.

If you are building one, why not use a carbon fiber tube?

There's a track on the face of my mast.I've attached a standard fitting that can be adjusted up/down the track to deal with different conditions, sails, etc.

Cost issues..I believe.

I agree that the best option is to measure right height when the sail is up.

But here is also a very good example of why It is Better to doublecheck than to be sorry.

Got the Peiffer adjustable Wiskerpole. And also got a bracket for the mast.

This picture shows that the peiffer bracket is banned from being used on sparcraft mast. I've put the bracket inside the mast to show the problem. The bracket would have to be placed outside the mast ofcause...

Driling holes would cut cables and the rivets would obstruct pulling new cables.

Perhaps a Track  like SilverSailor has is the way to go. Then the rivets can be placed in the centerline

First I drilled 10x (5mm) holes in the mast for the 1 meter sheet-track (Size2) and used monel rivets to secure it.

The wagon is removable so it is only placed on the track right before the whisker pole is to be used. The corners of the sheet-track is cut/grinded down. All this should prevent the jib-sheet getting stuck on the track when tacking.

It works perfect!

The bottom locking point of the t-rail is at the same height as the boats safety rail?

Would you have put it higher, now that you tried it with the selftacker (I see your attachment point well above the booms gooseneck)?

I gues the clew of a Genoa would even be higher when pushed out some 90 degrees.

Taken into account the objective of a horizontal pole.

I just ordered the same material, pfeiffer size 3, also 1 meter.

Peter

Initially I wanted to go the rivet route, but the rivets don’t sit as nicely in the (sunk head) holes in the  t-rail. While I got myself a heavy duty hand riveter, the length of the head (that takes the nail of the rivet) doesn’t go all the way to the bottom of the whole of the top-rail, I.e don’t think I can push the rivet to sit flush.

Also would have to (slightly) drill out the 6 mm holes in the t-rail to take the 6.4mm rivets.

Then I thought, why not simply use bolts with sunk heads (threaded into the mast with anti seize paste), this is how the t-rail is meant (from what it appears, looking at the holes) to be fastened…

Cutting M6 threat into the mast, wall thickness sufficient ?

Opinions?

Hi Rock

If you put a loose 4mm nut on the rod of the rivet  before you insert it into the riveter - it is possible to get the rivet flush. This will extend the the 'range' of your hand riveter.

Monel rivets are very strong and I used this method with this riveter:

Hi Rock/Peter

Did first see your post now.

The 1 meter track is needed because just small adjustments to the sheet will alter the level of the whisker pole.

I have a 28 sqm jib from elvstrøm and I waited for the right weather in our harbor to unfurl the jib when the wind was from behind. Then I saw where to roughly place the 1 meter track.

I would agree that different sails will require different heights if a single point is used. But with the track it is no so important and if you see my picture you could perhaps estimate the position. 

Remains the question of rivets vs bolts (cutting thread).

Peter 

Hi Peter

Stainless bolts?

Monel rivets prevent corrosion when joining stainless fittings to an aluminum mast. I this case it is an alu track that will be up against an alu mast. In theory alu rivets should work but they are normally not anodized. So I would stick to Monel rivets.  

I have a full length track for spinnaker pole, which is screwed to the front of the mast using M5 countersunk screws.  The mast extrusion is less than 5mm thick., so a little small for M6 but OK for M5.

 If you decide to use screws it is much better to use a "Form Tap" which forms the threads in the mast instead of cutting them, resulting in a stronger attachment. The Form Taps are not cheap, but they are the best way to put Threaded holes in the mast. Note :The tap drill size is a little bit different to what is used for cutting taps too.  I strongly recommend using Form Tap.

Cheers

DJ