I am perhaps getting either a 65m2 Code Zero or a 60 m2 Screecher X for the next season and I would like to improve the strength of the bowsprit.

This post is showing the Problem and a solution:

https://www.myhanse.com/bowsprit-extension_topic3042_post23807.html#23807" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/bowsprit-extension_topic3042_post23807.html#23807

But instead of using a U-bolt as in the lower picture (that would require a inspection hatch) - I would use an Eye-bolt to replace the lowest bolt.

Has anyone else been down that road?

My hope is that there is a bracket on the other side...

Anyways I will try to remove the lower bolt to measure it.

/H8jer

You can drill & tap a hole juste under the chainplate.

BUT I'm not sure this kind of fittings will stand upward load only with one bolt tighten in the 10 mm thick aluminium reinforcement plate.

I would think that it is sufficient strength enough. I would use a wire (or bar) with minimum stretch and no pre-tension.

My experience with dyneema is that, in the beginning they stretch more than a wire does. Because I also use a bow-ladder, then a fixed bar is not the best option.

BTW. This is my removable bow-ladder before electro-polish and 3M 'Safety Walk' applied:

/H8jer

Looks like Plattgatt has already used the suggested solution:

https://www.myhanse.com/code-0-sail_topic4479_post37772.html#37771" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/code-0-sail_topic4479_post37772.html#37771

And there is no need for a wire but can be an all dyneema solution. Great

/H8jer

Thx for your input.

I would like to avoid drilling any new holes in the bow. Maybe I don't picture the loose bracket that you suggest correctly.

The picture from plattgatt indicates that he also uses the 'jam nut' principal. This can ensure that the eye is in the proper direction.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jam_nut" rel="nofollow - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jam_nut  

Picture from wikipedia:

/H8jer

It looks like a stainless A4 Counter Sunk screw M10(guess) x 70mm.

It was 25mm wide and umbraco/Allen Key size 8mm.

example of counter sunk:

So if the bolt is in fact counter sunk it can spell trouble because A4 eye-bolts and washers are rarely counter sunk.

But perhaps I can build one by drilling a hole through the head of a counter sunk bolt

/H8jer

Thx Jens

Because of how our boat are built, I think that we will all have to install an inspection hatch in the front of the anchor locker at some time in the lifespan of the boat.

This is the only way to access the nuts on either the forestay-bracket or for both sides of the pulpits. My pulpit is bleeding rust from either the nut or a washer that perhaps is only A2 and not A4 Stainless. So I would have to change this at some point.

But as an old sailing instructor for young dinghy sailors I also did a lot of maintenance on small "unsinkable" keelboats. And sadly my experience is that inspection hatches are only waterproof when they are new.

When I brought our Hanse 370 back from Holland in November some years back, we went through a small channel 20sm from home with head winds and a heavy current in the opposite direction.

I did experience that the Anchor Locker got completely filled with water. So much that that the Hatch opened up from the pressure from the water and the fenders started to float around on the deck.

So I don't really like the idea of holes in the anchor-locker. I also think the drain-hose is a bad design, because it can fail and also fill the boat with sea-water.

Long story - But the point is that I will try to do this fix without making a hatch (for the time being...)

Btw. If you don't follow Eric Aanderaa 'No Bullsh*t Just Sailing' on you-tube - I can highly recommend his videos. In this link he is at wintertime in the North-sea and the chain-hole in the Anchor-Locker is slowly filling up the boat. (The reason was a very bad design decision from Eric in the first place - he fixes it in a later video)

https://youtu.be/lhU773vttms?t=1219" rel="nofollow - https://youtu.be/lhU773vttms?t=1219  (minute: 20:19)

/H8jer

    

Got a bolt of the danish brand BlueWave because the Wischard bolt was not with a flat surface. M12x100mm A4

https://nordjysk-marine.dk/products/ojebolt-rf-m-stort-oje-12-x-100-mm-brud-4500-kg-1-stk" rel="nofollow - https://nordjysk-marine.dk/products/ojebolt-rf-m-stort-oje-12-x-100-mm-brud-4500-kg-1-stk

Svb also got BlueWave. 

https://www.svb24.com/en/blue-wave-v4a-eye-bolt-washer-and-nut.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.svb24.com/en/blue-wave-v4a-eye-bolt-washer-and-nut.html

The bolt need to be 5 cm or more as the threads only starts after 2.5cm.

/h8jer

https://myhanse.com/code-0-halyard-rigging_topic13218_post118724.html#118724" rel="nofollow - https://myhanse.com/code-0-halyard-rigging_topic13218_post118724.html#118724

Can someone tell me how to fit the Niro Peteresen gennakerpin for Hanse here? 

https://www.niro-petersen.de/en/gennakerpin-for-bow-fitting-hanse-h-107.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.niro-petersen.de/en/gennakerpin-for-bow-fitting-hanse-h-107.html

I would like to do the same, but the removal of the bolt is very difficuly. Do you have a trick how to remove the lowest bolt. Using creeping oil and good equipment but still hard to get the bolt out. Not a single movement.

Thanks very much in advance!

Rutger

Hanse 370 hull nr 433

On my 370 there was not any nut on the inside.

It was easy to get out.

Perhaps you could use an impact wrench like a bosch GDX-200?

Many thanks for your advice

Now I ll order a new bolt with an eye

Kind regards

Rutgr