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Rudder bearings

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: Hints & Tips
Forum Name: 300 / 301
Forum Description: 300 & 301 Hints and Tips
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=12728
Printed Date: 27 February 2024 at 17:04
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Rudder bearings
Posted By: Andrew
Subject: Rudder bearings
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 18:31
Hi 
I know this has been chewed over before, but I was hoping somebody could point me to a supplier of rudder bearings for my 301. I tried Hanse, but they said the boat is too old, and they do not have any spears for these boats any more. 
If anybody has some advice, it would be very welcome.

Thanks Andrew



Replies:
Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 05 May 2021 at 19:50

Try  https://jefa.dk/products/roller-bearings/" rel="nofollow - https://jefa.dk/products/roller-bearings/

And Ý60mm shaft?
https://jefa.com/ftp/rudder/41000_Bottom_bearings/" rel="nofollow - https://jefa.com/ftp/rudder/41000_Bottom_bearings/


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 06 May 2021 at 11:52
Hi Andrew
I replaced the rudder bushes on our 301 last winter. It is not a one day job.

They are not roller bearings they are just plain bushes. 

I had some made and used the information given on dimensions in a post on here.

It is important that they are made from Delrin or an equivalent plastic that won't swell when immersed in water. If the wrong plastic is used it will cause your steering to seize solid.

Any local machine shop should be capable of making them.

I modified the design of the bottom bush as the original had just worn the rudder shaft down. I made the bush longer so it was bearing on unworn shaft.
I have a technical drawing of both bushes and will try and either post or PM these for you.

If you are doing the work yourself you will need to take your time.
It is unlikely you or any reputable yard could do this with the boat in slings.
The hardest part for me was actually removing the rudder and removing the lower nylon bush.

To drop the rudder you need to remove the tiller stock head bolt and the rudder clamp ring cap head. These will more than likely need to be drilled out if they have not been regularly removed. Not easy and took a lot of time. Once these are removed the rudder should be free to drop but.........

You need at least 1.5 m clearance under the rudder to allow it to be dropped. 

In my case the rudder wouldn't drop more than 50mm as the bottom bush was unworn and it jammed solid as soon as it was in contact with the bit of rudder shaft that was out of contact with the bush.

A combination of fairy liquid inside the rudder tube, weight in a bucket hung on the rudder and a long wooden lever g clamped to the top of the rudder allowed me to work it loose and eventually it dropped out.

Removing the bottom bush required the hull to be supported locally to the rudder tube.  It could be knocked out with a thick round steel pad that was a slide fit into the rudder tube sitting on top of it. I eventually found the weight of a scaffold tube was sufficient to pummel it out.

 I think cutting it a few times along its length from the underside with a reciprocating saw or hacksaw blade might have been quicker.

Reassembly was easy and I made sure the bottom bush was well fastened with sikaflex and the fit was good.

I found that the angle of the spacer to the deck under the top bush  mounting was incorrect. This caused the new top bush to be to be forced over and tighten on the rudder shaft. I managed to re angle the plastic spacer with an angle grinder so that the bearing was always parallel with the rudder shaft.

Refit with sikaflex or you will get rainwater in your aft locker.

Steve.



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Hanse 301 Bluenote 11


Posted By: Bitbaltic
Date Posted: 07 May 2021 at 23:11
welcome to the ever-present 301 rudder problem

I had my (entire) rudder and bearings rebuilt by my local engineers 10 years ago on purchase. Iíve certainly got nothing to add to Steveís advice on the bearings (I didnít do the work myself) but will add the usual advice to have a good look at the rudder stock when you get it out. In my case (and others) destruction of the original bearings was expedited by epoxy patch repairs to the original aluminium stock which was fabricated for Hanse by a now long-lost company in Poland who used inferior grade aluminium which suffered badly from pit corrosion.

If you are having the rudder out Iíd give thought to replacing the whole thing with an off-the-shelf unit from Jefa, because if you still have the original stock you will have problems sooner or later.

My stock and bearings are still perfectly smooth now 10 years later after replacing the lot, so if you keep the boat long term you should consider biting the bullet on a single job to replace everything.


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Hanse 301 'Karisma' | https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/" rel="nofollow - https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/


Posted By: H8jer
Date Posted: 08 May 2021 at 07:20
The old polish rudders are of bad quality.

I replaced the rudder and installed new 130mm tube for a self-adjusting lower bearing on our old 311. All brand new JEFA equipment.
Much better


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Hanse 370#487 30HP 3-cabin


Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 08 May 2021 at 09:05
Andrew, I have had the bottom bearing out of H301 twice, the first to correct a tight bearing and 5 years later a second time to replace with over  lenth bearing to remedy the wear on shaft problem, for a pre-sale survey. My buyers surveryor monitored and fully approved my work/design of bearing.

Holby also has useful comments on his 301 bearing replacement and his material choice. I used Delrin because I have used it successfully on previous yacht rudder bearings, Holby has another good material option. I have failed to link my previous posts to you, but if you search my posts [Perry] you should find them and my sketch of over lenth bearing. Also check Holby for more info.
Feel free to contact me direct for any help. [perrysimonner@btinternet.com]
Perry


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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017


Posted By: Andrew
Date Posted: 08 May 2021 at 15:10
I now have the rudder out. The shaft is 60mm diameter, and is very badly pitted.
There is also a crack in the rudder on the front edge, I will have to split the rudder and replace the rudder stock.

Andrew


Posted By: Bitbaltic
Date Posted: 10 May 2021 at 08:41
that's exactly what my marine engineers did ten years ago (because the shaft was pitted, not because of any damage to the blade). Having it done professionally cost two grand. Cheaper if you do it yourself but keep an eye on costs. Last time I looked it would have been much cheaper (around a grand I think) to get a new Jefa rudder off the shelf.







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Hanse 301 'Karisma' | https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/" rel="nofollow - https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 09 July 2021 at 11:02
Fellows, discovered on my 301 that rudder pole is moving approx 1mm on the upper bearing from side to side and after carefully reading all threads here, decided to go with full replacement with Jefa after current season is over. Only question left in my mind is safety, would it be fine to sail 1000-1500nm until the winter? I mean what can happen?


Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 11 July 2021 at 13:15
Originally posted by andrush andrush wrote:

Fellows, discovered on my 301 that rudder pole is moving approx 1mm on the upper bearing from side to side and after carefully reading all threads here, decided to go with full replacement with Jefa after current season is over. Only question left in my mind is safety, would it be fine to sail 1000-1500nm until the winter? I mean what can happen?

You shouldn't have any problem with continuing to sail with a sloppy top bearing. It may make controlling the boat with a tiller pilot less responsive. 

You are contemplating replacement with Jeffa equipment.
To my knowledge they can only offer a rudder that will fit the existing rudder tube and sleeve or bush type bearings.

If you wish to use jeffa roller bearings you will need to go down the root of complete replacement and reglassing of the rudder tube assembly and hull fairing.
I took the view that if the standard bushes had lasted nearly 20 years why go to the expense and the extra work and cost of bearings.

I am very happy after doing over 700 NM this season that the simple modified extended bottom bush and a new top bush on my boat have totally eliminated any play in the rudder. 
This also gave superb results with the much criticised raymarine tillerpilot.

Our boat was set up with sails well balanced in a force 5 gusting 6 in a quartering sea on our longest leg from Padstow to the Isles of Scilly.

 We averaged just shy of 8 knots on this long  passage surprising many larger club boats on our summer cruise with the speed of a sub 9m cruiser.



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Hanse 301 Bluenote 11


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 21 July 2021 at 12:00
hi AndrewÖ 
I have done a few pages on machining my own rudder bearingsÖ my rudder shaft was also worn and how I got around this..
My bearing war NOT roller bearings but a polymer bearing.. the post covers the material I used and what I did.. it turned out to be be a simple DIY job if you either have a lathe or know somebody with a latheÖ
https://www.myhanse.com/bottom-rudder-bearing_topic11510_page1.html?KW=Rudder+bearing" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/bottom-rudder-bearing_topic11510_page1.html?KW=Rudder+bearing


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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 21 July 2021 at 12:35
Ive been away sailing. So appogies for late reply.

I feel I have to say I completely agree with Taylor [bluenote11] .  I did the long Delrin sleeve to overcome the problem on my 301 Bloto. This was essentially to placate a surveyor, honestly rudder play of 1mm is not a big deal.
The surveyor was completely on board with my longer sleeve bearing and sign off on it. I subsiquently sold the boat and the new owner is happy over the last year.

If you must splash the cash with Jefra, and as you will have to glass in new rudder tube,  my option would be to buy one of their 'racing' rudders with Duplex Stainless Steel rudder stock of smaller diameter than the Aluminium and the thinner NACA aerofoil section. Less drag and Duplex SS great in sea water, strong stuff,  no worries on using copper antifoul, no corrosion!


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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 21 July 2021 at 16:09
Perry, I didnít know you had sold Bloto, or if you had itís obviously my mind is going.. what have you got now? 
Take care mate.. 👍


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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: Alexmass
Date Posted: 22 October 2021 at 13:32
Polymer bearings are not the best. Although there are good options
I am certainly not the greatest specialist in materials science, but lately I have often read literature about yachts and boats.



Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 22 October 2021 at 14:20
Originally posted by Alexmass Alexmass wrote:

Polymer bearings are not the best. Although there are good options

Disagree, by using a material called vesconite you will find that many large container ships, and other large ships are converting over to vesconite.. 
unlike nylon, which swells massively in water, vesconite does not, itís expansion is so minimal it is negligible.. itís easier to machine to the right sizeÖ 
I have now made both bearings, the top and the bottom, out of vesconite. I have no financial connection to vesconite, but have been in the polymer design industry for just over 20 yrs.
Cheers.
Dave 


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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: RichardJ
Date Posted: 25 December 2021 at 16:30
We just lifted Oh Dream Tiger (formerly Bloto) out for a winter refit. Thereís a lot more than 1 mm play in the rudder now. Weíre going to have to have a look at it. 


Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 25 December 2021 at 19:01
I made a double length bearing in Black Delrin for Bloto in August 2020 to overcome the wear on the bottom 60mm of the aluminium Rudder stock. This was a design approved by your experienced marine surveyor, the play at the bottom of the rudder may be approx that 12mm.
Let me know how you progress. If you need to remove bottom bearing dont go for sledge hammer approach; I fitted it with lots of Sikaflex 291. You need to use serious big puller system to get it out,  using 12mm studding and a big pad to spread load on bottom of hull or you will damage the hull moulding. And I used a 12mm thick alluminium disk to push the bearing down.
Regards Perry



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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 25 December 2021 at 22:04
RichardJ, interested you say, a lot more than 1mm, how much play is in the rudder? 

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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 26 December 2021 at 12:37
Originally posted by holby holby wrote:

RichardJ, interested you say, a lot more than 1mm, how much play is in the rudder? 

 
I also find it a bit strange given how recently they were replaced.

If the hinge pin to the tiller is loose you can get a lot of play in the steering as the tiller bracket moves a big angle in relation to the rudder shaft.

Steve


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Hanse 301 Bluenote 11


Posted By: RichardJ
Date Posted: 26 December 2021 at 16:52
Thanks Perry. We plan to have a good look sometime in January when both Sean and I are free. One of the pains of being 2+hours (on a good day) from the boat


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 06 January 2022 at 22:45
Richard, I dream of being just over 2 hours from my boat, Iím 6 hours, and thatís on a good day with no hold ups on the M5 and M6 😂😂
Let me know if you need any infoÖ
Dave


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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 09 January 2022 at 15:24
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cftm9HvBqMxTjmQG8" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/cftm9HvBqMxTjmQG8
Dears,does your rudders look like mine? Iím confused since Jeffaís is in different form.


Posted By: RichardJ
Date Posted: 09 January 2022 at 16:52
yes, that looks similar to mine


Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 10 January 2022 at 01:16
That looks very different to mine. On a wing Keel shallow draft it is cut off virtually parallel with the keel.

 I assume you have a deeper cast Iron fin keel version 301.


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Hanse 301 Bluenote 11


Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 10 January 2022 at 01:29
I have just clicked! JEFFA were not the original rudder manufacturers. They are offering their own  design (probably better shape) as a spare. 

If you look carefully at the drawing they show the cut-off version for the shallow draft lead wing boats and the longer one for cast fins.The key thing is the shaft is identical.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://jefa.com/ftp/old_boat_spare_parts/Hanse/Hanse_301/Hanse_301_Replacement_Rudder.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi2i9CWgqb1AhURkFwKHaVVDEUQFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2lSMJ_Nq6C9sqNsHVt_lMF" rel="nofollow - https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://jefa.com/ftp/old_boat_spare_parts/Hanse/Hanse_301/Hanse_301_Replacement_Rudder.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwi2i9CWgqb1AhURkFwKHaVVDEUQFnoECAQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw2lSMJ_Nq6C9sqNsHVt_lMF


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Hanse 301 Bluenote 11


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 10 January 2022 at 08:25
do you face understeering starting, lets say from force 4? And to make the boat head where you want to, you kind of need to paddle with rudder? 


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 10 January 2022 at 08:26
Originally posted by RichardJ RichardJ wrote:

yes, that looks similar to mine
do you face understeering starting, lets say from force 4? And to make the boat head where you want to, you kind of need to paddle with rudder a lot?


Posted By: Bitbaltic
Date Posted: 10 January 2022 at 09:56
Originally posted by andrush andrush wrote:

Originally posted by RichardJ RichardJ wrote:

yes, that looks similar to mine
do you face understeering starting, lets say from force 4? And to make the boat head where you want to, you kind of need to paddle with rudder a lot?

Something sounds very wrong with that


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Hanse 301 'Karisma' | https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/" rel="nofollow - https://sailingkarisma.wordpress.com/


Posted By: RichardJ
Date Posted: 10 January 2022 at 18:01
No, Iíve not had problems like that. 


Posted By: RichardJ
Date Posted: 14 February 2022 at 23:21
Now that the boat is out of the water, weíve had a chance to have a good look at the rudder. As the rudder is currently suspended, thereís some play in the bearing but not as much as weíd initially feared. However thereís about 8mm of play vertically. If we raise the rudder, then the bearing is snug with no looseness at all. I was surprised to see that the rudder stock is only retained by a clamp on top of the deck, as the deck flexes. 

Current plan is to insert a thicker washer under the clamp in order to lift the rudder. Does this make sense?


Posted By: Taylor
Date Posted: 15 February 2022 at 12:32
I did exactly that to raise the rudder as high as possible as on our case it is very nearly the same depth as the shallow draft keel. 
I think ours still rotates through 360 degrees without catching the hull underside. This is useful to get rid of weed rather than dangling over the stern with a boat hook or brush..
The clamp is the only thing stopping the rudder dropping on the hard. In water you will get some natural buoyancy but having lifted the rudder assembly it is not enough to stop it dropping. It is worth putting a safety strop through the tiller  bolt hole or around the rudder blade if you are removing the clamp afloat.


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Hanse 301 Bluenote 11


Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 15 February 2022 at 16:45
Hi Richard, 
 The top bush is top hat shaped and cannot go though the top deck without breaking a big bit of GRP. The tiller arm mount is both clamped to the rudder stock and has a bolt through the rudder stock. the bearing weight is taken on some PTFE pads which bear on the top of the top bearing holder.
When in the water the rudder exerts little weight on the top bearing due to its bouyancy.
Packing up the top bearing shoulnt be any problem but dont loose all the vertical play in the shaft.
I have never replaced the top bearing its lightly loaded,  if you feel it has too much play for you,  its a simple cheap bush get it in Delrin. Just remember tight/stiff rudder is not nice, you loose feel of boat, boat are not precision bits of machinery [more agricultural]  decks and hulls flex.
If you take out the SS bolt through the rudder stock re-fit with liberal gease or Durolac, Tefgel, or other to reduce SS Alum corrosion. I had a terrible job drilling out this bolt to remove rudder first time, and destroyed the Aluminium coller; had to make another and its not anodised [it was 6061 I think]
Regards
Perry




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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017


Posted By: AlanL
Date Posted: 18 February 2022 at 13:22
I had the same problem taking out the bolt when working on our rudder but subsequently realised that part of this was because of the weight of the rudder on the bolt holding it tight.  When refitting the bolt I had someone below take the weight of the rudder and the bolt went in easily.  I checked that it would also come out again and we really noticed the difference with the weight on the rudder and with it off.

-------------
Hobo
Hanse 301
GBR 2996L


Posted By: perry
Date Posted: 18 February 2022 at 16:15
I drilled the bolt out while in water,  as didnt want to waste time doing it ashore, I wanted to drop rudder as soon as lifted. I put a clamp round rudder shaft below deck to take weight, but bouyancy meant the the rudder was pretty light. My bolt was original and had been corroding in for 15yrs.


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Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007
Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017


Posted By: AlanL
Date Posted: 18 February 2022 at 20:20
I was going to do that but had nightmares about the rudder falling off and sinking LOL

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Hobo
Hanse 301
GBR 2996L


Posted By: AlanL
Date Posted: 21 March 2022 at 21:43
Just an update on the rudder bolt situation on Hobo.  I was at the boat today (which is now back in the water) and tried easing off the old bolt (mild steel which I had accidentally put in previously).  It came out easily and I was able to slot in a new stainless bolt with plenty of grease, I also have a stainless rudder shaft which replaced, about 8 years ago, the original aluminium shaft which had corrosion and pitting.  All done in about 2 minutes, after about 2 years of putting off doing it again.  Went for a lovely sail up Portsmouth harbour in the sun and a moderate breeze to celebrate. Smile

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Hobo
Hanse 301
GBR 2996L


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 16:50
Fellow 301 owners please kindly share experience or ideas how to solve issue when rudder shaft from the top has worn down and there is a gap in between shaft and new bearings from Jefa?
you can see video here:  https://photos.app.goo.gl/UeHbvPnMDjRf4cdT9" rel="nofollow - https://photos.app.goo.gl/UeHbvPnMDjRf4cdT9

PS. thank you all for you prior advise!  


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 18:14
What is the white insert within the balcony outer?
Is this another polymerÖ 
I donít really see what the issue is. The top bearing is the easiest to deal with and replace, and can be done with the boat in the water so long as you tie the rudder on so it does not drop out of the tube. 
If you worry about your ability to tie it on then I would suggest you take the boat  out of the water. BUT as you have made the video, I am assuming the boat is out and the rudder is out.. 
i would seriously buy a length of Vesconite tube with a larger external diameter than the widest part of the bearing and with an internal diameter smaller than the rudder shaft.. Get a piece of vesconite tube that is approx 400mm long The reason for this is that you can make a bottom bearing when you need to.. If you have a lathe ( metal turning lathe is best) and copy the old bearing and then make the centre hole the same size as the rudder shaft.. try it for size ( remember you can stick it back if you have made it to big.. when you find that it just fits on with no gap, take a micron off, and try again and again until you have a comfortable fit. 
If you donít feel confident to do this go to an engineering company and there will be an apprentice who can test his machining skills on this. 
Best wishes


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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 18:29
Holby, thank you! 
Pardon me for not being specific enough, somehow felt like video describes issue well..
So, Iím replacing and all-ready have received  both lower and upper bearings. Lower one fits to the bearing shaft well and there is literally no sideways shaking. Issue is with top shaft(metal) which has worn down from sides and new bearing letís it shake sideways.


Posted By: RichardJ
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 18:32
Don't know if this will help you, but this winter we found that our rudder had a lot of vibration. When we got her on the hard, we saw that dropped a bit, and there was a small amount of play between the shaft and the bearings (a 1mm gap led to about 4mm movement at the tip of the rubber). However, when we lifted the rudder to its proper position, the play disappeared. So we fabricated a Delrin washer  at the top of the shaft to take up the most of the slack. Since then it's been fine.


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 18:54
Originally posted by RichardJ RichardJ wrote:

So we fabricated a Delrin washer  at the top of the shaft to take up the most of the slack. Since then it's been fine.
Do you mne tou kind of made sleeve from delrin and placed in between bearing and the rudder shaft?


Posted By: RichardJ
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 19:14
Not a sleeve, just a washer placed immediately under the clamp at the top of the rudder shaft. See attached photo. 


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 19:24
Thank you, now clearly understood. In my case this will not work, so Im tryng to figure out how to grow on new sleeve or something to get rid of that sideways shake. There is option to cut of from the top of shaft and lathe exact detail and weld all back together.


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 19:30
I am assuming that the rudder bearing was not made with the rudder shaft close by for continuing to measure the bearing against the shaft.. I would say you perhaps had it made in the as new shaft diameter and not what it had worn down to.. because if you had continually measured and tried the bearing for size then this would not have happened.. unless the bearing has not been made to the correct size Ö 

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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 20:17
Bearings were ordered as new from Jefa. 


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 17 August 2022 at 21:30
Well, to be honest if as you say the shaft is worn where this bearing goes, then Iím not surprised, as I say it needs to be measured and the bearing made to fit.. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ I would suggest you ask for your money back, get some Vesconite tubing , it is far far superior to Delrin, and make it, get a top bearing made to fit 

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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 20 August 2022 at 10:15
Have you spoken to Jafa and are you getting a new one made if so if Jada are going to make you another, measure the shat wher it is contact with the top of the bearing and the bottom of the bearing.. And get machined to those measurements.. so itís a tanker if you will .. but itís really better if you have the shaft with you when machining the bearing 
Good luck 👍👍


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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: andrush
Date Posted: 20 August 2022 at 10:27
Yes Holby, thank you. I got super good support from Jefa and they suggested to put sleeve on top and send new bigger bearing. Also, finally after seeing my old ďbearingsĒ I now in full understand what you meant. I didnít expect that old ones werenít literally bearings.
I hope good people at Jefa donít mind me sharing this instruction, it is exactly how Iím going to install and might be useful for someone in future.
https://jefa.dk/installation-in-grp-or-wood-core-hulls/" rel="nofollow - https://jefa.dk/installation-in-grp-or-wood-core-hulls/


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 12 September 2022 at 11:18
If you put a hard metal bearing in then I feel you will be adding issues further on.. 
i would suggest sticking with polymer bushes as that is how it was designedÖ
For me Delrin material I do not think is the right material as vesconite has since been developed and is easy to work with.. I do not have any financial link with vesconite.. 
here is their website that shows their material.. 
https://www.vesconite.com/" rel="nofollow - https://www.vesconite.com/

If you go back further on here you will see photos of the bushes I made and if I can make them then Iím sure anybody can.. 
but what ever way you go go lunch and enjoy..

I am still concerned that you are buying a bearing of the shelf.. as the wear on the shaft is so variable.. but 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️



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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)


Posted By: holby
Date Posted: 19 May 2023 at 10:02
Just been told that my story has been selected as story of the month by Vesconite.. this material is now being used on rudder bushes for large container ships, large pumping stations even down now on JCBís 
It far out weighs, I think, Delrin, as to be honest I do not think I will need to fit any more rudder beating on my 301
https://www.vesconite.com/stories/" rel="nofollow - https://www.vesconite.com/stories/


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Hanse 301, tiller steering, Volvo 2010 (10hp)



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