The issue is - at this stage - more cosmetic than anything else but will doubtless get worse. 

Any warranty expired a long time ago (I did check).

Am I alone with this? I suspect that the powder coating was a deficient batch when it was carried out. Any thoughts as regards rectification? Remove hatch surrounds - have them sandblasted - then re powder coated? Altenatively just hand sand and touch-up as best as possible (although I don't think that this treatment would last very long). Or start with new hatches? Will be a big cost..... 

Many thanks

Richard

Hello, same problem on our H385 2014, had to replace already 5 of them by new. Think to recover the old hatches by sandblasting and powder coat them again. Not yet done due to lack of time and priority :).

At the early beginning you have no corrosion under the loosing paint, looks like the paint is not well glued to the metal. When i removed the peeling paint the aluminum looked brand new :).

So quality issue out of warranty :(.

I suspected that I wouldn't be alone! The symptoms that you describe are exactly the same as mine.

I wasn't too clear - are you saying that you have already replaced 5 hatches with new ones - and in future you will sand blast and have re powder coated? 

Best wishes

Richard

Bob

Talking to a mate who’s Lewmar hatches on his Bavaria motorboat have corroded badly, he’s bought one hatch frame at an extortionate price and removed one at a time and had them re powder coated locally at a very reasonable cost £10 each! The powder coater noted that no primer was applied to the alloy originally which is why the coating breaks down ….so I’ll see how they fare in the course of time!

It amazes me how many powder coated frames corrode in such a short time if it was on a car there would uproar, the salty air has it’s part to play and design esthetics has moved away from anodised frames which is much more durable or is it cost cutting? Andy .

From our experience, if the powder coating is starting to flake off the outsides of the frames, it will be flaking off the underside of the frames too. If this happens the paint sticks very nicely to the sika seal but not the frame and you will get leaks.

I too was worried about removing the frames as they are quite flimsy, but it turned out to very easy as the was no bond between the frame and the sika, I took out the screws and just lifted the frames out, indeed if the boat had been upside down they would have fallen out! We then cleaned up the old sika and re-bedded the frames in new sika. No more leaks.

I wouldn't recommend spraying in-situ as you will not solve the real problem that will cause leaks in the future. 

There are various threads on this site about this if you use the advanced search function and change the date parameters (default is last six months)

Good luck

Paul

In the search function “Lewmar painting “ in the year 2018 “I put a tread about this problem with the FLUSH HATCHES LEWMAR in 2012. A few years later the same problem with the new 2 generation one’s . Lewmar changed the Flush hatches 3 times since then : Original then 2 Generation and later the 3 generation( other frame and rubberseal)?????

A few years later the black LEWMAR MITRE PORTLIGHTS( same as they put in the Bavaria) of the 2 back cabine’s starts the same problem. No warranty. Lewmar make me a price just for the frame (900x270 custom made for Hanse they say) of 950 euro per piece?????

I try to take them out .Mission impossible without destroying the frames.

I sand all the paint and dirt off in-situ and put special primer and 2comp paint on.

Now after 5 years the painting start coming off again. IMO the corrosion of the alu is to deep and very difficult to sand completely out.

Chrome plating is an interesting thought. May I ask how much the plating (and sanding?) cost per frame? I realise that we are in different countries.....

Many thanks

Richard

When you had removed the old frames what did you do? Install new ones - or clean and powder coat or something else.

Thanks

Richard

When we took them out, all the original paint on the bases of the frames was still neatly stuck to the sika, like powder coated mastic!

All the best

Paul

I had hitherto considered Lewmar to be a reputable brand. But as so many have be affected then I'm not so sure anymore. Lewmar changed hands in 2019 - now owned by an American company - Lippert.

Best wishes

Richard

I will look into this option.

Best wishes

Richard

Do you have a photo of the Chrome finished outcome? Im in the same boat and am planning to sandblast, prime and powder coat black. However, this may be a good alternative.

Anders

Bob

If a customer like Hanse is asking Lewmar strongly to deliver pure white or black aluminium than powdercoating it the only option. Maybe it works on anodized aluminium as well but I am not shure.

I'm talking with a local supplier to get the frames anodized for a very reasonable £30-£40....which begs the question "Why didn't Lewmar do this in the first instance" especially now this is a widely known issue.

 

The potential challenges with this approach appear to be:-

 

1) How to remove the frame without damaging them (mine have only started to fail, so are still well adhered to the deck after I remove teh screws). Because these hatches are "flush" its very hard to get access under the flange of the frame becuase of the surrounding GRP

 

2) How to prepare the frames for anodising. My supplier is saying that blasting will leave them too rough and I'll need to get them polished of "brushed" first

 

Anyone with any experiences?

 

Does chroming eliminate some of the preparation issues?

 

If I can get them out, prepared and either anodised or chromed then I think I will have a future proof solution and better than orignal, but the meantime it's pretty frustrating to be honest.

 

Grateful for any thoughts / experiences

 

Jon

 

Matt

Jon

I’ve removed my fwd one and replaced it with a new anodised frame. The old white one had corroded underneath and there was clear evidence of where the water was getting in. The replacement won’t have that issue so hopefully no more leaks!

I assume that you are replacing the frames only, and keeping the glass, handles etc? Any difficulties in moving those fittings to the new frames?

Gordon

Where can I find the parts numbers for the anodized  replacement frames for Lewmar flush hatches?

Prices?

60 in anodised is part # 361821990 and was £97 GBP before tax

70 in anodised is part # 361822990 and was £157 GBP before tax 

But note that my UK dealer needed quite a few pictures of the hatch in order to correctly identify the exact frame so I’d recommend checking the above part numbers for your specific hatches 

The frames are available and to be honest having had some cleaned up and hard anodized the cost differential of refurbishment versus buying new anodized ones from Lewmar is negligible (60 x 60 frames are £112 each with plastic hinge attachment and new seal).  They fit in an overhead aircraft bin even in their shipping box or you can wear them as an interesting piece of jewelry depending on how customs feel on the day.

The powder coating was specified by Hanse not Lewmar as an aesthetic.  However, I went with silver anodised replacements.  A quick walk round boats that are from a generation before will show up the fact that their older surrounds and frames have lasted better than powder coated ones.  

Anyone who's owned a TVR sports car will know powder coating does not last forever - salt water, 40C sunshine etc... are as effective as road salt, rain, etc... at exposing the underlying frame to corrosion even if acid etch primed - the cost of the repair however, is a couple of orders of magnitude less!!

Removing is straight forward.  I used thin flexible plaster scrappers - there should be some in the Hanse spares box.  Remove the screws push under and break the sealant and gently pull up.  Any noise that sounds like tearing is just the powder coating and sealant coming away from the frame.  Use the scrappers and some acetone to clean the surface.  I resealed with 3M 3200 Marine Silicone in case I have to take them out again - the screws should provide enough mechanical fastening strength (they aren't a structural element).  Masking tape prevents sealant over run on the inner and external fibre glass.

Given that I was quoted €800 to fit and another €900 for 2 complete new hatches.  I elected to do this myself - quite where they got the labour charge from I'm not sure as each hatch only took a couple of hours from start to finish.

One final thing to remember is to grease the stainless bolt on the hinge.  Several of mine had seized and had to be cut and drilled out. (Only an issue if you intend to recycle).

I have a 2016 hanse 455 , have you get a link to where you purchased the frames please and what model are they ?

Kind Regards

Charlie 

Powder coating ?.  30 years back I did some extensive experimental work on various powder coating systems for corrosion protection. Absolutely useless for protection, thickening the coating reduced the porosity but only with thicknesses above 3mm?. 

No it doesnt work, 

If you look around at any number of products where powder coating is 

used eg. cheap bicyles, garden equipment barrows etc, you will see plenty of corrosion fails. Anodised aluminium is good, why anyone changed? probably the promised of powder coating companies?

So do not replace failed powder coated hatch frames with more powder coated frames, they will fail, they will leak.

If the frames conform to new [fashion] of flush hatches just more trouble.

In my experience

Perry

Cowes

Isle of Wight

I am looking fopr anodised replacements which I believe are stocked now

It's strange that Lewmar could not supply an anodised frame. It is just a 'standard' rectangular radiused hatch.  The custom built cranked top hatch which failed last year was available in powder coated white or silver anodised - I chose that latter and it is definitely the best option.

I'm just hoping that the coach roof side frames come out as easily as the top forward hatch . . . .

Regards,  Paul

You can get anodising pretty much any colour. It is a process of first creating an anodised layer deep enough [aluminium oxide] to contain dye,  then immersed in the dye, then post treated to seal the poroisity.

I quote from a specialist:-

"Electrochemically anodizing aluminum produces an aluminum oxide surface that has:

• Corrosion resistance
• A pleasing appearance
• Wear resistance
• Improved paint or adhesive bonding
• Improved lubricity
• Improved plating adhesion

This article will focus on anodizing aluminum. But, other metals can be anodized, including magnesium, titanium, and aluminum alloy. There are several types of anodized aluminum finishes, including clear anodized aluminum, black anodized aluminum, and hard anodized aluminum. There are also a few commonly referenced anodizing types: Type I, Type II, and Type II.""

Regards, Paul 

I have the same issue with the frames, can I ask where you purchased them from please ?

Kind Regartds

Charlie

My dealer IMG very kindly helped me source them direct from Lewmar but you will need the relevant serial numbers off the acrylic to ensure you get the right one. 

Unfortunately 3 years or so after swapping the frame I still have a leak. This time not caused by the powder coating failing but because the factory cut the aperture for the hatch oversized so I’ve now got to engage a laminator to build the opening up before fitting the frame again! That and this winters fitting of a replacement window should finally see my boat leak free!!!

Thats greatr, thanks

Yes they cut mine oversize too in the corners !

What a stupid mistake to make , so mine only sits on the outer ridge of the two at the bottom of the frame !

Kind Regards

Charlie

I believe it is something to do with the anodising not being compatible with the powder coating.

The hatch frames can be fun to remove, so I am contemplating 

Cleaning up in situ, and then masking off and hand applying an etching primer, followed by an epoxy top coat.