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uploads/5043/Doc_with_6_photos.pdf" rel="nofollow - Let me know if you can make any sense of it?
I put them on this .pdf link below hope it is readable. It worked for me!
uploads/5043/Doc_with_6_photos.pdf" rel="nofollow - uploads/5043/Doc_with_6_photos.pdf
OK Guys, I'm getting round to detailing my installation for you but its a bit of a task [ thats for me writing it down and getting decent photos]. I'll make a bit of a start.:- First the importance of understanding all aspects of the steering system. Mine is a Lewmar wheel steering system. I am the second owner of the boat the first was a Hanse agent who did no work in this area. So when my Professional installer handed over his work I was dissapointed to find the Raymarine auto pilot control head showed the rudder movement to be very assymetric. The ruddershould move 36 degrees eithe side for the same movement on the wheel; At this point I started to investgate the installation. What I found was that the assymetry was caused by the Lewmar tiller arm installed the wrong way round???. [thats actuall the wrong way up?]
To understand this you need to see the Lewmar installation handbook. Basically the arm on the bottom of the pedestal is shorter than the tiller arm. The distance from the pedestal centre to the rudder shaft is 800mm. The Lewmar tiller arm fitted had a 10 degree offset [it should have been 5 degrees. When Hanse assembled the system they used a link rod whos minimum adjustment was 840mm? this meant that to make it fit the tiller arm was fitted upside down [ie with 20 degree offset!] so for the straight ahead rudder position the arm on the pedestal was off by 20 degrees. Lewmar say :-
OK: to fix this mess was my next problem. Ideally I needed a 40mm shorter link arm [800mm], and a Lewmar tiller arm with 5 degree offset. I looked at cutting and re-welding the end fitting of the link arm an easier way was to remove the thick locking nuts from the spherical bearings at each end and replace with thin nuts, perfectly adequate for the duty. A new Lewmar tiller arm was expensive, cutting a new keyway not viable. In the end decided that the 10 degree arm fitted the right way round was only a 5degree error and with the corrected link arm length was near enough. Now my installer had the Raymarine Linear drive well mounted under the Starboard aft locker, on a thick SS plate through bolted on the transom and on the bulkhead forward. A 15mm thick X 50mm wide 250mm long arm had been welded to the Lewmar Tiller arm to drive the rudder. I cut off this arm and had it welded back to the other side of the tiller arm so that it could be fitted the right way round [10degree offset].
The rudder positon sensor was badly mounted and this caused some lack of stability in control. I re mounted the sensor and fitted another arm solidly on the tiller arm [I will try and show this in some photos. But access is difficult even with a camera? My installer fitted the ACU SEnsor too close to the linear drive to save money on cabling, the stray magnetic field from Driveubit made it impossible to get calibration of compass. I moved it forward mounted above aft bunk, nice dry and work great.
I will try and reinforce this difficult description with some photos when I can get on the boat. My 315[2007] had no provision to help install either the Raymarine of a Jeffra drive.
I choose the Raymarine 1) because its cheaper than Jefra, cheap enough to carry a spare 2) its simple, well made and has been used on the water a long time, its actually on mk2 version so hopefully now fully sorted..
My concern was that the recirculating ball leadscrew would be a drag on the steering when clutch disengaged; it isnt at all noticable. And unlike the Jeffra its hasnt problems with clutch
------------- Current Yacht Hanse 315 2007 Last Yacht Hanse 301 Round GB in 2017
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