If i remove the anode, is the fitting the anode is screwed into also the oil plug?

What volume and type of oil is needed?

Can find nothing online so am in need of some input!

/M

Q. this place seems pretty quiet... where do all the Hanse owners live?

All fitted so hopefully I have the rest of the season to enjoy! (rear anode missing!)

When I posted the boat was up on the hard and I had very limited time before the staff went on vacation (Norway... I could explain but it would take waaay too long!)

...So we machined an anode from a similar part as we did not have the time to wait for the correct one to be delivered, and left the drain plug in and did not change it. I knew the boat was coming out again end September so took the risk. So far all good.

It seems Max Power want you to use their dealers for service and there seems to be very little public data or youtube videos to help. I plan to have another go at it early October and am happy to try and share any learnings.

Hi Norse King,

A very long time back I lost a folding prop from shaft drive on Quarter tonne race yacht.

Since that day whatever the manual says,  I always use Monel locking wire to secure every prop fixing nut.

You never ever see an aeroplane prop fitted any other way. it beats all the bent Tab washers or loktite solutions.

Now with a typical saildrive its not simple, its fiddley to fit, and you have to drill/cross drill the nut/bolts to fit locking wire. Current Yanmar saildrive [H315 Bloto-4] and previous Volvo SD [on H301 Bloro-3] you need to drill both the the big bronze nut and also the smaller locking bolt. But its worth the security.

Avoid wire shorting the rubber bush on Volvo SD as it insulates prop.

Regards

Perry [Bloto-4]

East Cowes,

N.B. I always admire Norse King when I see her, bad luck with prop.

 

Thank you, I hope if on board I have waved in acknowledgement of a fellow Hanse owner.

Not sure if you've looked at the blog, but when he came out of the water at Kingston marine, the rear anode was missing. As you might be aware this has four bolts and it is not possible to slip past the prop even if none of the bolts were in place.  My conclusion therefore, is that last winter, as always I remove the prop to clean it, but then it becomes cloudy, I think I must have put it back on to keep the greased fins of the shaft covered, but not necessarily tightened to 90nm as required, as I needed to locate the rear anode.  NK went back in the water prior to my arrival and as such I didn't have a last minute check.

I usually have spares at home that compliment the old prop that adorns floor space, but clearly this was not the case this time.  The old prop is the original, slightly undersized as discussed in a previous post, that suffered from galvanic corrosion. I have since added a third anode which I hang over the side manually which now prevents the other two from being completely 'eaten'.

Are you moored in East Cowes marina and if so what state are your anodes when you are lifted?

Bloto-4 has been in East Cowes marina since I bought her in Aug 2020.

Only got Yanmar pencil anode in top saildrive  [pencil anode lightly eroded changed twice] and one piece prop anode  [oldish two blade folding prop 'flexifold]  SD anode behind prop  lightly eroded would probably last 1/1/2 to 2 years but changed every year. [April liftouts Richardsons] : nb I do all own work.

I have no other anodes, I fitted Galvanic Isolator when got boat, and checks for stray currant plugged in marina showed nothing of concern. You are reminding me to check again.

Last year lift and SD oil change showed small quantity sea water in SD, partial seal failure; used spacers to move new seals along to un-worn shaft. Next lift our will strip examine and now have available facility to grind propshaft and fit new seals, will make decision on condition.

Regards

Perry,

note:  I weighed Anode and have data on boat,  will be able to quantify ' light erosion'

I was told that the new (not so new) housing development that was built adjacent and probably to finance the marina, (my thoughts not local knowledge), has its earth connected to the metal piles the pontoons float on and as such there's a high volume of galvanic activity below the water line.  Which is the likely source of corrosion to my first prop.

I have recently fitted a gear box breather to the SD to prevent any build up of pressure causing failure to the O rings.  This years lift out (Yacht Haven), I'll change the oils from both engine and gear box as he's not been very far over the past two years.

I have spoke to the yard where I am at. Option 1 is to remove the bronze plug and hope for the best. Option 2 is to replace the whole leg. 

MP also said you do not have to replace the oil very often, just make sure there is enough oil in the unit itself. 

The risk of course is that if something goes wrong and you have to lift the boat… then it cancels itself out.

/M