Chit Chat - Solar controller settings

Solar controller settings

Printed From: myHanse.com
Category: General
Forum Name: Chit Chat
Forum Description: Talk about anything to do with your boat
URL: https://www.myhanse.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13559
Printed Date: 27 March 2026 at 05:01
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com

Topic: Solar controller settings

Posted By: 32mike
Subject: Solar controller settings
Date Posted: 03 August 2022 at 15:06

So, I’ve installed 3 solar banks @ 130w each on three separate Victron controllers. The boat came with a MasterVolt Mass Combi inverter/charger preset to AGM charging settings. The default charge settings for Bulk/absorb/float are slightly different between the Mass Combi and the Victron controllers. I’m not sure that I know how or that I can change the Mass Combi but the Victron controllers are easily reconfigured in their app. Should the settings be the same between them all or can I just leave them at the defaults?

Mass/Combi AGM- bulk -14.4/absorb -14.25/float -13.8

Victron AGM/spiral absorb - 14.7/float - 13.8

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Mike
S/V Dulces Sueños
458 #087
Tampa, FL

Replies:

Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 06 August 2022 at 07:21

I am also interested in this. I have had the MPPT controller and SmartShunt for a season but this year added more panels with a second controller and connected the whole lot to a Raspberry Pi Cerbo/Venus. Getting lots of charging data and same conflicts as you describe.

Also not sure what the alternator charges at (13.8V?) And how this is managed.

My panels rarely go to Absorbtion let alone Float so I try to get shore power at least once a week.

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H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising

Posted By: 32mike
Date Posted: 06 August 2022 at 13:42

Stewart,

My panels stay in bulk most of the day if not all day. On a sunny day they produce about 1.3-1.5 kw which is just about enough to replenish the overnight drain and provide for the day’s usage depending. I’ve found that the fridge is the biggest issue. If the temperature is set to anything above about 1/2 then it tends to run near continuously. It’s hot here in Florida, but that’s even with A/c on set to 83f overnight.

I have to admit that I don’t know exactly how the engine alternator and the generator combine with the solar, house batteries, engine battery, thruster battery, combiner and chargers. I’m learning as I go but it seems like there’s a lot to learn and a lot of cables and wires. In the meantime, I’m just hoping that I’m not doing anything wrong😬.

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Mike
S/V Dulces Sueños
458 #087
Tampa, FL

Posted By: S&J
Date Posted: 21 August 2022 at 23:33

Sounds like we have a similar setup. My fridge seems a little more efficient as it is only on about 20 minutes every hour.

Today I have been on shore power. The Mastervolt charger took the voltage to about 14.1V then went into Absorbtion then Float so the voltage dropped to 13.6.

All the voltage readings here are from my Cerbo which is getting battery voltage and current from the SmartShunt. All the voltages appear to be about 0.2V lower than I would expect. For example I see float at 13.6 rather than 13.8 specified by Mastervolt. This could be due to temperature adjustment, although it hasn't been especially hot today.

The MPPT remained in bulk as the absorption threshold (14.4) was not reached. I don't have a temperature sensor for the Victron equipment.

I can't find any way to configure the Mastervolt or find any charging spec for the Q-Batteries.

I also question why my windlass (which gets used every day, often more than one cycle (drop / retrieve) runs off the house batteries rather than the much closer thruster battery. Probably because the thruster is a Hanse option and not present on some boats. I might take a look to see if I can rewire this as it is quite a bit on the battery, even with the engine running.

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H458 #159 Primal Mediterranean cruising

Posted By: 32mike
Date Posted: 22 August 2022 at 01:49

Well, my fridge quit this past week, so it’s not running much now. I delved into the search function last night and learned a lot. I think I need a refrigerant recharge which I hope is all it needs. That’s a whole topic in itself.

The MasterVolt Mass Combi has only two settings for the 3 phase charge cycle and it’s done with internal DIP switches. The only difference is that AGM setting floats @ 13.8 instead of 13.25 for the default lead acid setting.

I actually have the Victron temperature sensor that talks to the BMV monitor and the controllers through Bluetooth. I was reading through some of the manuals yesterday and came to the conclusion that the temperature compensation pulls the voltage thresholds down due to temps higher than the nominal values at 20C. All of my voltage readings are lower than what the manual says, eg., the float reading is usually about 13.5 v instead of the 13.8.

What I don’t yet understand is when my two sources, shore power through the inverter/charger and solar power though the controllers, have different charge phase settings, is that ok or should I adjust them to be equal, or one higher (which one?). Furthermore, when on shore power for a few days, (charger on float) is it ok that the solar controllers go to bulk every morning when the sun comes up? Is that also ok for the starter battery to get that bulk shot every day when it isn’t even being used at all?

I’m still looking for that “everything you need to know about solar charge settings on your boat” internet treatise but I haven’t found it yet.

The Q battery technical data sheet lists some charging parameters but it’s not in sailboat language. I emailed them but didn’t get a response.

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Mike
S/V Dulces Sueños
458 #087
Tampa, FL

Posted By: mattplowman
Date Posted: 22 August 2022 at 22:10

I'm no solar expert (last season installed Sunbeam System panels on Victron MPPT controllers) but from my understanding I don't think you need to worry about any discrepancies. The reason being they are 2 separate charge sources. If the MasterVolt Mass Combi was doing the job correctly before your solar install then it will continue to do so. You will have an issue with the panels cutting out when you turn your engine on and the Mastervolt starts pumping juice into the bank but all things being equal the MasterVolt will do its job when you turn the engine on and the panels will do the job when its off. That is my experience so far.

When I am on shore power I turn the panels off , my view is there is no need to have both charge sources going and shore power will be most effective (especially if like mine the shore power smart charger has a storage mode for when on shore power for long periods)

S&J - re your windless question , do you have a VSR? If so you may be experiencing the same issue I have had. When your panels are charging the VSR will engage (as its supposed to do) , this means both starter and house are charging , the issue is that when you go to use your windless the VSR is still engaged and will drain from the house...that could be the issue...the only solution I have found (aside from wiring a switch into the VSR) is to turn some high drain appliances on prior to starting the engine so the voltage drops to a level where the VSR disengages , I then start the engine and the starter is drained not the house (in my case the issue was the start sequence was draining the house not the starter but this could be what is happening with your windless?)

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H445 #210

Posted By: 32mike
Date Posted: 22 August 2022 at 22:58

Thanks Matt. Yeah, I’ve thought about just turning the panels off when plugged in. I might try that for a while. Just seems odd that there’s no “right” answer to what the charge voltages should be set at. Today I also discovered that the temperature compensation is also different between the charger and controllers by a factor of 2. I guess the real answer would be one that came from the battery manufacturer but I haven’t been able to get that yet. I guess I’m most concerned about overcharging - rather not do that.

Stuart,

I did see a technique on YouTube where a guy would run the engine up to 2000 rpm in neutral before engaging the windlass so that the alternator would provide enough amps without draining the battery. I guess you’d have to modulate that with putting it in gear to ease the load on the windlass itself. Haven’t tried it yet.

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Mike
S/V Dulces Sueños
458 #087
Tampa, FL

Posted By: mattplowman
Date Posted: 23 August 2022 at 02:36

Hi Mike" "I guess I’m most concerned about overcharging - rather not do that". I am not sure how that would happen , the alternator will cut out as it has in the past at a set voltage and the MPPTs will also cut out at a set voltage...as long as the MPPT and the other charge sources are set at a level that the battery can handle then they should not overcharge...once that float level is met they will cut out.

If you have a VSR then there is a chance that the starter may get overcharged by the panels - my VSR cuts in when the panels are charging , my MPPTs are set at the house charge levels (as opposed to starter battery charge parameters) so there is a risk my starter will get an overcharge. I have decided that this is a risk I can run as my panel array is not large (160w) so I figure a massive overcharge is unlikely.

As I say , Im no expert but these are my observations so far.

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H445 #210