It is a lot bigger and wondered if anyone has done this and how it was fitted.

Thanks

Jon

I have a 2003 version of the 311. I have changed to a gulper just before covid. I removed the old pump , threw away the filter & just re conncted with a section of new hose. What I did do was fit a Hose lock fitting in the connection. I then added a 12 ft length of hose which is coiled in the engine bay. When i want to hoover up water anywhere in the boat I just disconnect the shower & hook on the hose & can move it about as required. In the end of the hose I have a 12 inch length of 8mm copper pipe so I can insert it through a hole in the cabin floor & suck up any water in the bilge that the main pump will not remove without lifting the floor boards. It also sucks up small puddles under the engine.

The shower tray in my boat does not drain to the outlet so I get the last of the water up with that as well. In fact i poke it down the drain hole & leave it there when using the shower to save connecting & re connecting it. I have a hole in the engine panel for it to come through

I do like Samuel's added little finesse; must try that myself next year!

If I can work out the connections I like the idea of a tail to suck up water from other parts of the bilge.

Some years ago I changed our setup on our 370.

The boat came with two Jabsco PAR pumps. One for fresh Water and One for Shower Drain. Because these pumps are both meant for fresh water, it was obvious that I needed to do something to improve this.

Another annoying issue was that there were no accumulator tank for the Fresh Water, so every-time someone opened a tap - the pump would run (and make noise).

I changed the shower drain pump to a Jabsco diaphragm pump that does not need a filter eg.:

https://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/pumps/sink-shower-drain-pumps/50880-1000-self-priming-diaphragm-pump-12-volt-dc.htm" rel="nofollow - https://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/pumps/sink-shower-drain-pumps/50880-1000-self-priming-diaphragm-pump-12-volt-dc.htm

This was a swap-in because of the same fittings used.

I also added a 1-Litre accumulator tank to the Fresh-Water side. It was placed under the sink to the right. Again same fittings but also needed some extra hose and fitting:

https://www.svb24.com/en/jabsco-accumulator-tank-1-litre.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.svb24.com/en/jabsco-accumulator-tank-1-litre.html

(Correction update: is was only .65L  https://www.svb24.com/en/jabsco-accumulator-tank.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.svb24.com/en/jabsco-accumulator-tank.html )

This is much better than stock setup but I still need to address two Issues.

• The Freshwater Pump is much nosier than on my old Hanse 311 where the pump and accumulator was one unit.
• The Shower-drain pump is now so effective that it pushes waste water backwards up into the sink.

I hope that this can inspire you and others

/H8jer

The picure at the bottom is the Gulper mounted in my H400

This is from 2020:

Try Search->Advanced Search->Topic: Gulper->Any Date->All Forums, and find:

If this looks like your pump, the filter is on the bottom left side. Do NOT drop the filter down in the void, because it may never reappear. Try to read the links, where a Gulper pump is recommended. This type of pump has no filter to clean.

Very happy with it, larger capacity and way less noise then the original (sounded like a jackhammer).

Cleaning the filter really became a nuisance (every 1-2 weeks, depending on use), Gulper is in since 1 year, no filter no issues, no clogging so far.

But as h8yer say, it makes the issue of backflushing grey water into the sink worse (larger capacity).

Only definitive solution I can think of is to make a dedicated thruhull for the showerpump, don’t want to do that though.

Anybody really dealt with the water in the sink issue in another/easier way ?

BR

Peter 

I have changed the check valve under the sink..

" the water in the sink issue"

I mounted a one-way valve under the sink - the model with a gravity induced movement. The model with a spring does not work here.

When changing the Shower Drain pump I now remember that there was not much room to work with. There might be a huge difference between the 400 and the 370 here. The clearance between the outer and inner hull is not much.  I don't think the filter could drop into the hidden voids on a 370.

Because of the tight space, the Whale gulper/diaprahm pump suggested by Captain Cook is perhaps an easier fit than the Jabsco pump. It took me some time to adjust the best orientation. But as show on the pictures the Whale has to sit lower than the Jabsco to leave room for the hoses. 

Captain Cook - Because you mentioned that the Spring-version is not usable -then a https://www.trudesign.nz/marine/products/69-non-return-valves-check-valves" rel="nofollow - TruDesign One-Value is perhaps not an option? The TruDesign has a stainless Spring and a pressure loss of 3.8psi. 

Could you kindly confirm if this  https://www.vvs-eksperten.dk/ror-og-fittings-kuglehaner-og-ventiler-kontraventiler-kontraventil-med-klap-12-430380004" rel="nofollow - valve  is of the right gravity One-valve type?

/H8jer 

H8jer: The non-return valves are normally used in pressurized systems. This means, that a version with a spring needs the water-pressure to press open the valve. This kind of pressure is not available when water is slowly leaving the sink.

The valve in my photo I found in my workshop. It is also manufactured for use in pressurized systems, but the mechanism is just a closing plate hung in a little bolt of which you can see the end in the top left hand side on the photo. Therefore if it is mounted right, the valve stays open (by gravity) so water from the sink  can pass. When the drain pump starts to pump pressurized water against the arrow in the valve, the valve closes, and the grey water from the drain is then routed down to the seacock.

The non-return valve must be mounted on the hose just under the sink, with the arrow pointing down, and with the Y-piece underneath the valve ( with hoses going to shower-drain and seacock).

There may be a better solution, but this was what I could find in my workshop, and it functions.

I do not believe that the Trudesign valve will work.

Update: Just drew a few lines on the valve to make things clearer.

I have a 2003 version of the 311. I have changed to a gulper just before covid. I removed the old pump , threw away the filter & just re conncted with a section of new hose. What I did do was fit a Hose lock fitting in the connection. I then added a 12 ft length of hose which is coiled in the engine bay. When i want to hoover up water anywhere in the boat I just disconnect the shower & hook on the hose & can move it about as required. In the end of the hose I have a 12 inch length of 8mm copper pipe so I can insert it through a hole in the cabin floor & suck up any water in the bilge that the main pump will not remove without lifting the floor boards.

In our boat 545/2010 there’s a factory installed Jabsco Water Puppy self priming pump 23680-4003 with approx 12 meters long 19mm hose with Jabsco anti return valve and at the end a 50cm long tube to pump out all the bilges compartments. I can even reach the bow thruster compartment the dinghy garage and the anchor locker to suck op water there.👍

Why Hanse don’t do this standard in all the models I don’t know!!

Regarding the discussion of pressure tanks, another alternative is a flow-rate controller that controls the pump based on water pressure.   I bought this one from Jabsco many years ago and it has been working fine for me https://www.westmarine.com/jabsco-smooth-flow-water-pump-controller-31777-0000-8719080.html" rel="nofollow - https://www.westmarine.com/jabsco-smooth-flow-water-pump-controller-31777-0000-8719080.html .   Another nice feature of this device is that it will shut off the pump if the flow is continuing uninterrupted for more than 20 minutes so if someone leaves a tap on or you spring a leak you won't drain the tank.   Cycling the power will reset this feature.  It is pretty compact and there is room to fit it next to the freshwater pump.   Sorry I don't have a photo of the installation, I'll take one in the spring.

Never thought of.

You learn something everyday !

Thanks kjeld

Just went to the boat today to charge the lead batteries and also to run the dehumidifier (absorbtion-type)

Then I had some time to take pictures of my setup.

Remember that I have already stated it would perhaps be easier to install the Whale-type, because I think the picture shows that it was difficult to fit the Jabsco Gulper/Diaphram pump (50880-1000):

The accumulator tank for the fresh-water is a .65 Litre (not 1L as stated earlier) it's part-no is 30573-0003.

It is placed under the sink to the right.

Here is shown the TruDesign Truhull valves, where the left one has a Y-joint for the Sink and the Shower drain. I would not try to fit an extra truhull dedicated to the Shower drain.

From the Y-Joint the Hose is bend in a curve up to sink. So a To-Do project this season would be to fit the Non-Return Valve suggested by Captain Cook - somewhere on that hose.

/H8jer

Because the hose is bend - there is only a limited position to fit the valve because it needs to be vertical for gravity to work.

From the Y-joint to the underside sink is only 25-45cm

This type you have to place always horizontal to let the gravity work.

 Why not the Jabsco non return valve? 

There’s no spring inside and you can placed in any direction( vertical and horizontal )for 19mm 25mm and 38mm hose.

Wild and Wet:

In fact the valve is meant to be mounted horizontal, but it still works in a vertikal position.

I mentioned, that there may be better solutions, because when I used the brass-valve, it was simply because I already had it in my workshop.

Obviously the Jabsco may a better solution. The photos are not showing if there is a spring mounted inside the plastic. If so, there may be a problem when the water shall leave the sink. There is almost no pressure on the grey water from the sink.

If someone has bought the Jabsco, it would be nice to get some feedback on myhanse, if it can be used for this purpose.

:Kjeld

We have one in each shower cabine of these valves under the sink to avoid shower water come in when the shower grey water pump is running.

The inside rubber flap is the same system as Jabsco use in the toilet handpomp but there’s no brass weight on the flap and the flap is mounted in a 45 degrees position in the flow direction 

The acces to clean (if necessary) is easy just take out the 4 bolts.

 

The hydrostatic Pressure of standing water should be 0.433 psi pr. feet.
TruDesign Non-Return Valves need a Low ‘cracking’ (opening) pressure 0.41psi for 19mm and 0.29 psi for 25mm.

So this will not work for TruDesign. I can't find the numbers for Jabsco valves.

With the gravity valve in vertical, it should be always open, which is desired because there are no real pressure. If there is just the slightest obstruction, hair and other debris will pile up and clog the valve.

It needs just a few cm of waterpressure (water columns?)to open in the flow direction 

It will also be easier to clean than dismantling the Brass gravity valve.

I think I will try the Jabsco valve then.

I'm planning to install the same jabsco gulper pump as you have. Did you do any changes on the electrical side? I see  that  the calira panel only has a 10amp  fuse for the pumps, and the gulper pump draw twice as much as the fresh water pump.

Hi 

Are we talking about the same gulper pump?

https://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/pumps/sink-shower-drain-pumps/50880-1000-self-priming-diaphragm-pump-12-volt-dc.htm" rel="nofollow - https://www.jabscoshop.com/marine/pumps/sink-shower-drain-pumps/50880-1000-self-priming-diaphragm-pump-12-volt-dc.htm

My version only needs a 10 amp fuse.

I did not change anything about fuse or wires.

Kind regards

But I dont think they are on the same fuse at the Calira panel.

Anyways both pumps can run at the same time.

In this post you can see the Calira panel.

When showering I turn on both switches with pump icons (above the bilgepumps)

https://www.myhanse.com/howto-guide-for-inverter-for-hanse370-3cabin_topic14134_post117350.html#117350" rel="nofollow - https://www.myhanse.com/howto-guide-for-inverter-for-hanse370-3cabin_topic14134_post117350.html#117350

I will have to doublecheck if they indeed do control each a pump

Good work. Perhaps the no. 15 is for an optional electric toilet.

When the boat is back in the water for the next season I must check if both my pumps are on the no. 14 switch.