On my H385 there are 

I have also seen on the forum someone fit anodes to the keel is this a good idea?

Cheers  

For my boat, in the Med 5 months in the (high salinity) water:

Thruster: every 2 years

Prop: every year

Sail drive: every 2 years

Hull: still good after 2 years

Prop/Saildrive - one year

Bowthruster/Hull - two years

Note that before I added a hull anode, the prop & SD anodes barely lasted 2-3 months.  The prop is a flexifold with a large rope cutter added, so the surface area the anode was trying to protect was too much for it.

She's in Boka Bay (Adriatic) all year long.

Prop button anodes are shot after 2 yrs

Prop split anode is still good after 2 yrs ?

Bow thruster anodes shot after 2 yrs  

My hull anode has been on for 3+ yrs and is still really good which I think is a little strange. I've checked the connection under the port bunk and apart from the top nuts only been hand tight and a small amount of sealant between the base of the bottom nut and the washer all seems to be OK. 

Although I can not trace the cable too far back I assume (as per the label) this is connected to the rudder/auto pilot in the steering compartment. 

It has been suggested that the hull anode may have failed due to internal (impurities) contamination during manufacturing, anyway it s being changed. 

cheers      

BTW its a pain on the 385 to change the Volvo SD rubber boot, the whole engine has to come out!!!! 

Sorry for asking 

The “hullanode” you called is that not the ground plate ?

If so it’s supposed to connect only as safety ground when you have a safetytrasformator in your vessel due to prevent galvanic corrosion 

When the boat is in the water conduct a simple test.             (NOT CONECTED SUORPOWER!!!!) lose the cable from the so named hullanode and measure current using a multimeter between anode and cable you lose 

If you find a current then measure ohm from that loose cable to the sail drive 

If yes a current is present and you read a low ohm

That can be a reason for a rapid anode failure 

I had an "accidental" electrolysis event.  It worn Sail drive & prop anode within 4 months and made a big hole in sail drive leg.

It came form elsewhere than the yacht hence insurance claim and yacht wasn't connected to shore power except during some weekends.

Sorry for my bad English 

https://www.victronenergy.se/upload/documents/Datasheet-Isolation-Transformers-SE.pdf" rel="nofollow - https://www.victronenergy.se/upload/documents/Datasheet-Isolation-Transformers-SE.pdf

It’s in Swedish but you may translate in chrome browser 

The grounding plate is a sintered round like this on my Hanse 

https://www.hengko.com/sintered-copper-bronze-grounding-plate-products/" rel="nofollow - https://www.hengko.com/sintered-copper-bronze-grounding-plate-products/

And if the plate is copper and connects to a circuit in water you’re going to have some galvanic corrosion on aluminium 

IT’s advisory to secure the plate with a nut under the green/yellow cable when you are on shore so you not get water leaking or loose the plate once the boat re enter the water 

And do not forget to reattach the cable after your check 

(No Shoure cable attached when you conduct this test!!!!!)

There are five other Hanses (400,430,575,470 & 508) in the ship yard at the moment and I have noticed none of them have the "hull anode" "grounding plate" so I am even more puzzled.

I have two galvanic isolators fitted.

My SD and rudder are fine with no/very little pitting which makes me very happy . I'm having "propspeed" on the SD, which, I found very good, it lasted 4yrs on the prop.  

  

As far as I can tell I've only got one anode on my 385 which is the collar anode on my sail drive. (I mounted two on my steel keel to kill off corrosion - ref. separate post).

I gave the boat a new layer of antifouling without seeing any anodes, so naturally I'm worried that there are anodes that are covered by antifouling. As for ground plate, haven't seen it.

I read through the Hanse Owners manual without seeing any details regarding this.

Under a bench in the cockpit (port side) it also has a galvanic isolator for shorepower which is factory installed, but has been disconnected because it was broken/poor quality. Based on the size I'm leaning towards it being a diode thingy, not a proper transformator. Planning to order a Victron 2kW transformator this week.

No corrosion on my saildrive, but the boat has hardly ever been on shorepower according to owner - the solar panel has been used for topping up the bank.

Fortunately I like diving, so I'm prepared to do some underwater sanding in case you guys say that I've got anodes that are not exposed to water. Couldn't spot any anodes on my retractable thruster either, but from what I can tell it's likely not supposed to have any either.

My 2015 385 had a 2 blade Giri prop which definitely had an anode as well as the split Volvo anode on the saildrive.

I recall there being a large hull anode too.i didn't have a thruster on that boat but the retractable thruster on the 458 has a cone prop anode on either side and small "bar" type anodes on the leg.  These are readily visible with the thruster deployed and needed replacement after 2 x 5 month seasons for me.

I recall that the galvanic isolator on the 385 was fairly substantial and I'd not want to be without this.

These small variations within each of the 385 deliveries cause a lot of confusion as well.

From I can see from your photos I can conclude with the following:

-I don't have a hull anode/ground fitting. I have the shallow draught steel keel.

EDIT: -Based on your picture I believe I have the same saildrive and prop as you. I've got a VP D2-40.

-Will check to see if I have that rudder grounding wire - no idea.

EDIT2: - See picture of my retractable thruster below (Max Power Compact Retract - different brand than yours). No anode like yours, looks like one is missing, but pictures from manufacturer online suggests that there should not be any anodes on this model.

"The composite drive leg is prefilled with oil from the factory, which does not need to be replaced. Due to its composite material the drive leg does not need an anode for protection. When the boat is ashore, check for evidence of fishing line, etc. in the propellers"

So one less thing for you to worry about!!! 

In my case it was defective and I replaced it with a proper transformer installed in a more electronics friendly environment.

What year is your boat?

Hi Schjell

Are you sure it was defective? The manufacturer has sold 500.000 with 0% failure rate according to their webpage:

https://sterling-power.com/products/zinc-savers-galvanic-isolators" rel="nofollow - https://sterling-power.com/products/zinc-savers-galvanic-isolators

I have installed this kind of Sterling Zinksaver in my current and previous boat. It should only lit the diodes if it is defective or the voltage exceed 2 volts.

This Sterling Galvanic Isolator is much better than nothing...

Congratulation with your new Transformer, was it expensive?

/H8jer

The 2kW Victron i bought was approx NOK 7000 + NOK 500 for the 10A 2-pole GFCI.

I didn't go for the 16A transformer version due to its size and what I actually need. Might add a switch later that bypasses transformer if I need 16A for shorter periods of time.